Too dark outside to be plugging and unplugging stuff under the glove box, will try it out when it's light.
EC Offroad CarPlay Solutions For 2016+ 200 Series LC (NEW SEPT 2020 MODEL) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter greynolds
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Very interested to see how well this works!
So I now know a little bit about what @greynolds house looked like when he was experimenting with solving the "get internet to the unit while keeping wireless carplay conundrum.
- Using this as an ethernet adapter per @greynolds recommendation. I would also recommend it. Have it running a wireless keyboard mouse combo as well making extra USB ports are pretty handy it also powers the mini router I reference below: Amazon product ASIN B07TWGHM99
Amazon product ASIN B00B9996LA
- I decided to go with a personal hotspot through Verizon for the ability to use it for work when I'm traveling. I already have a plan with them and their hotspot plans are half off right now if you have one of their premium plans which I already do which means you can add a 50gb hotspot for 10 bucks + the cost of the device of course. Right now I have their 5g hotspot(M2100 UW) which is connected one of two ways:
- IOGear Ethernet to Wifi adapter - This works well. When set up with WPS it is pretty dead reliable and connects to my hotspot in less than 90 seconds when i get in the car to my. I do think it's expensive for what you get but if you already have a hotspot that is WPS enabled this little device is the KISS option. I plug the USB power right into the UGREEN adapter and it works well.
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Ether...tronics&sprefix=iogear,electronics,201&sr=1-3
- GL Inet routers - Mango - I think this or a more robust version of their travel routers(Slate or Beryl) is going to be my ultimate choice. My reason is that it allows me to tether internet(wired) from my iPhone (I've been able to do this by plugging in my iPhone after wireless carplay has connected) or my Verizon hotspot. Yes, I realize this defeats the wireless Carplay convenience when in use and probably a bug that Apple will make go away at some point but i have 30 gb of hotspot data with my Verizon plan and it's useful. The price point of the Mango is attractive but I have not been able to get it to reliable act as a bridge(like the iogear) which I have heard could be a result of it being picky about the power source and in my experience when it is hooked up to a separate source(not the ugreen at least when it is being used as an ethernet adapter) it is much more reliable. The big thing for me on the Mango again is that it lets me tether from my iphone(which for now works while I'm connected to wireless carplay somehow). The bottom line is after having one, the idea of a travel router has become really appealing to me. Fair warning GL Inet and other offerings for travel routers is a RABBIT HOLE so you've been warned.
https://www.amazon.com/GL-iNET-GL-M...net+mango&qid=1630409432&s=electronics&sr=1-4
Hope this helps anyone looking to experiment. If you're already on AT&T the Nighhawk routers are very solid mobile routers and offer some features that I wish I had on the Verizon offerings such as data offloading to nearby networks and an ethernet port!. I currently have an M1100(the unlocked version) that I plan on returning. I snagged it while they were on sale for $250 bucks(by the way if anyone wants it I'd happily ship it to you since it looks like that sale from a week or so ago is now gone).
I hope this helps. Still very happy with my EC Offroad unit. If i had just gone with the Naviplus i'm sure i wouldn't have missed the expansive capabilities through the android platform the EC unit provides but now that I have essentially everything an android tablet gets you available in my car it would be hard to go back. My wife watched an entire season on netflix to and from the lake on the screen while i was able to quickly able to switch back and forth to carplay.
Oh yeah.... I knew I came on here hoping for some help before I gave that lengthy update.
A few questions:
A few questions:
- Have any of you run a 12v socket to the glovebox. Would love to install a small inverter to be able to plug in these networking devices.
- Running wires: What's the best way to run wires into the glovebox? Id like to either:
- Run ethernet from under the driver seat(or passenger if it's meaningfully easier). Use the socket on the back of the center console to hide an inverter and travel router under the driver seat and simply run a lightning or USB C cord up to the drivers seat. Anyone ever seen someone do something clever with the blank that's left when you don't have rear entertainment?
- Run USB cords from the glovebox to one of the switch panel blanks or even replace the 12v next to the qi charger with dual usb plugs which would connect to the headunit plugs in the glovebox.
greynolds
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #145
Yeah, I see a lot of repeat parts in your post. I also recently bought almost the identical keyboard model and am finding it works really well.
Interesting - that same 50GB plan costs me $20 with the 50% discount for having one of the premium phone plans.
I had no idea that it was possible to get a wired Internet connection from the iPhone while using CarPlay. That's an extremely attractive option to have available, even though it means you have to plug the iPhone in. And you're correct that these things can turn into a big rabbit hole
.
greynolds
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #146
I did make use of the blank that's left without rear entertainment to install a few USB charger ports that are wired directly to the battery (and properly fused). I'll try to dig up the post with pictures for you, but if you search around, you'll probably find it. It's pretty easy to run wires to that location too. You can run wires from the battery through a grommet on the passenger side, and once inside, it's pretty easy to route them through the center console and to the back of it where that panel is located. For running wires to the glovebox, I'm not sure there's really a best way to do it. It seems to me the only way to get wires there (without cutting any holes) is to go via the recirculation door, which is a bit messy. I recently re-routed the USB ports from the EC unit to underneath the glovebox just above the removable panel that provides access to the fusebox. That's where the Ethernet to USB adapter is located (which also has the keyboard dongle and a USB flash drive plugged into it). I left the other USB port dangling out on the passenger door edge of that panel for easy access to temporarily plug something in when needed.
I’ve done it, it’s not as bad as you would think. The directions are pretty straight forward and as long as you take your time it’s not too difficult. I’m in the Dallas area and would be happy to give more feedback.
How difficult was this to do. I had mine installed by a shop and they routed them through the airfilter. Just wondering before is start taking panels apart. Any guidance is appreciated.
greynolds
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #149
It's not too bad at all. Instructions for taking the center dash apart to get access to where the radio, screen, heating controls, etc. are linked to in this thread; this will give you access for dealing with the wiring at the front. The back side of the center console comes off as 1 big piece (see this post for some specifics including photos) very easily, just make sure you use a plastic/nylon trim removal tool and some blue painters tape (or similar) to protect the panels from scratching. Once you have that panel off, access to everything on the back side there is really easy. To get wiring from the back of the console to the front area, it's really useful to pull the cupholder unit out - if you still have the factory cupholder, just open the lid and pull up (there's a good chance it will take a fairly significant amount of force) and is just held in with some spring clip things. But access for snaking wiring through is actually pretty good. Before you drill any holes in the rear console panel, just make sure you check carefully for clearance where you're cutting the hole so that what you're mounting has the space it needs. If you decide to tap power off of the rear cigarette lighter, then you don't need to worry about snaking cables from the back of the console to the front, but I wasn't thrilled with the wire gauge they used for the lighter outlet and ran my own thicker gauge wiring.
For routing the USB cables to under the glovebox, I only needed to pop off the panel under the glovebox (the one that provides access to the passenger side fuse panel) and then snake the EC USB cables to the new location - I didn't need to disassemble the dash any further than that.
Hey guys...I am getting my EC Offroad unit today and cannot wait to get it in! This is a great thread. Thank you for all of the info.
I do have a question on the external microphone. Is it required, or will it still work with the OEM mic? I plan to mainly use it for CarPlay.
I do have a question on the external microphone. Is it required, or will it still work with the OEM mic? I plan to mainly use it for CarPlay.
@bwatford141
I do not use the external mic. As long as my phone is still connected directly to the Toyota bluetooth, then phone calls and such still work. BUT, voice commands will not work on Android Auto (and probably not CarPlay) without the mic. For example, hitting the microphone button in the Google map brings up the prompt for me to speak, but then it doesn't hear me. Here's some of my notes regarding audio when I first installed it:
I do not use the external mic. As long as my phone is still connected directly to the Toyota bluetooth, then phone calls and such still work. BUT, voice commands will not work on Android Auto (and probably not CarPlay) without the mic. For example, hitting the microphone button in the Google map brings up the prompt for me to speak, but then it doesn't hear me. Here's some of my notes regarding audio when I first installed it:
Thanks! I’m going to go ahead and install the mic behind the rear view mirror. I’ve got everything pulled apart. Just waiting on DHL to arrive so that I can get the interface installed. It really only took about 30-45 minutes to remove the screen, radio, A-Pillar and sun visor.
Thank you. I just ordered it this morning and appreciate the supportive words. I’m going to reread threads and make sure I’m prepared.
Has anyone found any other options for placing the GPS antenna? I really don't want it sitting on the dash.
I put mine in the back-left corner under the center speaker's cover. It fits there perfectly if you don't use the adhesive padding. If you do use the adhesive padding, then there's an unnoticeable gap when you put the speaker cover back on.
Thank you! Looks like you also have your USB cable coming out of the wireless charger tray.
Yes, it's the absolute best place for it in my opinion!
I ran it straight out of the speaker mesh panel Ferris pointed out above.
I ran it straight toward the windshield. I did leave mine on the dash without sticking the adhesive
I can barely see it. Any gap in the panel is at the forward facing edge so I can't see it
I wanted to make sure I have the best GPS signal possible and was worried about the metal in the mesh causing issues
Didn't stick it down because I didn't want any chance to discolor the dash with prolonged use.
And if multiple people can confirm the mesh screen doesn't affect the signal (or I can experiment when I'm out in the boonies)
Then I'd stick it where Ferris did
I ran it straight toward the windshield. I did leave mine on the dash without sticking the adhesive
I can barely see it. Any gap in the panel is at the forward facing edge so I can't see it
I wanted to make sure I have the best GPS signal possible and was worried about the metal in the mesh causing issues
Didn't stick it down because I didn't want any chance to discolor the dash with prolonged use.
And if multiple people can confirm the mesh screen doesn't affect the signal (or I can experiment when I'm out in the boonies)
Then I'd stick it where Ferris did
greynolds
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #160
I have mine sitting on top of the metal mesh (it has a magnet, so it doesn't slide around), but I'm probably going to put it underneath at some point.
I also want to find a better spot for the microphone as I've got mine clipped to the back of the metal mesh which results in a minor gap at the back edge of the mesh. I know one of you guys mounted your mic in one of the unused switch blanks; that's probably the best all around option for it.
I also want to find a better spot for the microphone as I've got mine clipped to the back of the metal mesh which results in a minor gap at the back edge of the mesh. I know one of you guys mounted your mic in one of the unused switch blanks; that's probably the best all around option for it.
