Easy Out Extractors (1 Viewer)

[Scott_sFZJ80]

So what do you do when you snap off the "extractor" in the drilled out hole of the frozen bolt?

This would be on my first gen on the frame (upside-down) so soaking it with penetrating lube didn't really get down the threads.

 

[4rnr]

So what do you do when you snap off the "extractor" in the drilled out hole of the frozen bolt?

This would be on my first gen on the frame (upside-down) so soaking it with penetrating lube didn't really get down the threads.

weld a bolt to the broken bolt, and use that bolt to back it out. Plus the heat of welding will break most any bolt loose.

 

[x factor]

If it broke off flush use a small punch with a fine point to try and reverse it out by tapping around any exposed edge until it comes out. That is the only way I have been successful. It may take a while but it should losen to the point that you can grab it with needle nose.

If it broke off down inside you might be able to losen it with a larger drill bit.
Easyouts are not kind to drill bits and will ruin the tip of any that come in contact.

 

[Gumby]

I never use extractors exactly for this reason.

They never work and almost always make the situation worse.

Not a lot of help, I know.

I often weld a nut to the broken bolt.

 

[x factor]

My previous post was for removing the broke extractor, just to clearify.

Although it wouldn't work for this heating the bolt and forcing a crayon into the thread of a stuck or broken bolt can make for easier extraction.

 

[Gumby]

Although it wouldn't work for this heating the bolt and forcing a crayon into the thread of a stuck or broken bolt can make for easier extraction.

Bill with the old skool trick. We used to keep beeswax around the shop for that.

 

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Thanks guys. Yeah the bolt and the extractor are flush with the frame. I'll use a punch to try to get the extractor out and then try the welding to the bolt. I think the heat idea should help as well. Interesting tip on the crayon and bees wax.

 

[metalfab]

Hey Scott just weld a nut to it no need to remove extractor,you need help I'll runover only 10 minutes away .

 

[Scott_sFZJ80]

Thanks Jose

 

[anthonycds]

Scott, how'd it turn out? Were you able to get the bolt and extractor out?

This happened to me 2 weeks ago; 1 bolt appears to stick out far enough from the frame to weld a nut onto, but the other bolt w/ extractor is now almost completely flush with the frame.

 

[Scott_sFZJ80]

I got around it for now so it was bumped down my long list of "crap to-do"...

Scott, how'd it turn out? Were you able to get the bolt and extractor out?

This happened to me 2 weeks ago; 1 bolt appears to stick out far enough from the frame to weld a nut onto, but the other bolt w/ extractor is now almost completely flush with the frame.

 

[4rnr]

I got around it for now so it was bumped down my long list of "crap to-do"...

What are you doing to that thing exactly?

 

[Scott_sFZJ80]

It wasn’t anything major; I was taking the front skid plate off to change the front diff fluid and one of the front bolts to the skid plate busted. I just bolted the other three back on for now.
On a side note; I couldn’t get the top (fill hole) bolt off the diff, but my vast amount of experience at least helped me because I started with that bolt instead of the bottom drain bolt so I didn’t run into the “not being able to fill the fluid back in the diff" problem.

So basically I got nothing done...


I can now foresee issues for when I go to do the doubler install. Rusty old bolts.

 

[4rnr]

meh that skid plate is definatly optional.

those fill/drain plugs can be tricky cause of the low shoulder height. Impact is king on those, or put the socket/ratchet on there and hit it with a hammer, that usually breaks it loose.