E-Locker in 9.5 inch front end?

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Ok I am wondering if it is possible to use say an 80 series E-locking 3rd member in a 9.5 inch pre 89 front axle. I would assume that you would have to use a rear 3rd member because it has to be 9.5 inch.
Am I right or completely wrong?
 
Hi All:

Works just fine. IIRC you will need to source a long-splined inner axle shaft to allow the e-locker to engage.

Good luck!

Alan
 
The only way to cheaply lock a truck is a lunch box locker- in the rear only in my opinion. Other than that putting a selectable locker on a truck wil cost about the same for an ARB or electric - depending on where you buy it and how much of course.

G and S might have some long splined axles or Dave stedman can get them most likely.

Louis
 
We have long spline 7 series front axle shafts, new and used in stock.
 
Hi All:

Look for a US-market FZJ80 at the wreckers. The rear axle will be the "9.5 inch" and may, or may not contain a factory e-locker.

The factory e-locker looks different than the stock open rearend in that it has an activator mechanism bolted on. Very obvious! ;)

In my previous post I was a bit sparse on the details of the install. A buddy has done it in a couple of different rigs so I have gotten used to this retro-fit.

In addition to the long-spline inner axle shaft, one will need to cut-out the axle housing to allow fitment of the oddly-shaped e-locker third member. You will also need to figure out how to activate the e-locker; IIRC my friend rigged-up a simple electrical switch with relay.

Good luck!

Alan
 
Hi All:

Look for a US-market FZJ80 at the wreckers. The rear axle will be the "9.5 inch" and may, or may not contain a factory e-locker.

The factory e-locker looks different than the stock open rearend in that it has an activator mechanism bolted on. Very obvious! ;)

In my previous post I was a bit sparse on the details of the install. A buddy has done it in a couple of different rigs so I have gotten used to this retro-fit.

In addition to the long-spline inner axle shaft, one will need to cut-out the axle housing to allow fitment of the oddly-shaped e-locker third member. You will also need to figure out how to activate the e-locker; IIRC my friend rigged-up a simple electrical switch with relay.

Good luck!

Alan

yup I knew all that.
 
only if locked though right?

I would be buying a 73 regardless with lockers because the price doesn't really matter for the most part. I could have a spare locker for parts anyways. I could just use the axles out of the 8.* axle right?
 
air locker sucks
electric lockers rule

it really is that simple
:>P
 
air locker sucks
electric lockers rule

it really is that simple
:>P

That's certainly up for debate... my lead technician, Jason, says the exact opposite of that.

I like them all, they all have their limitations one way or another.

Properly installed Air Lockers are very reliable, and it can be argued that they are better than e-lockers when the axle shaft breaks at the actuator in an e-locker (hard to get apart).

~John

~John
 
i can only go by field experience and electric hasn't left anyone i know broken but i have seen the ARB not working when needed.

but

each to their own.

(since i am my own lead tech, i guess that counters your lead tech and raises you experience... :lol: )
 
Ok just to clarify this.

If I bought a LOCKED hzj73 from japan, bought a 9.5 inch Pre89 front end and a 24v e-locked rear third member would I need to source out long splined axles shafts? Or could I just use the ones in the 8 inch front end?

Now if I did have to buy long splined axles do I buy 27 or 30 splined?
What about birf do I need to open that can of worms and get new birfs? Do i need specific birfs for either 27 or 30 spline?
Or could I use birfs out of the 8 inch front end?
 
the small front diff lockers use normal axle shafts,it is just the larger center units that need the longer splines.
the smaller front lockers use many small teeth to engage
the larger rear lockers use 2 large cogs to engage,
that is why the front electric diff usually engages MUCH quicker than the rear large diff.
 
Yes, you need long splined axle shafts with the 9.5" diffs.

Yes, you should run 30 splines if you can afford it along with Chromo birfs. Yes, I can supply those to you, but you can run the stock birfs depending on how you 'wheel.


~John
 
the small front diff lockers use normal axle shafts,it is just the larger center units that need the longer splines.
the smaller front lockers use many small teeth to engage
the larger rear lockers use 2 large cogs to engage,
that is why the front electric diff usually engages MUCH quicker than the rear large diff.

Yes, you need long splined axle shafts with the 9.5" diffs.

Yes, you should run 30 splines if you can afford it along with Chromo birfs. Yes, I can supply those to you, but you can run the stock birfs depending on how you 'wheel.


~John

Thanks boys.

I will probably run stock and go with a full rebuild. I can't really justify putting in a full longfield set. I don't wheel hard. I just like the idea of having a tougher front end. I'll keep you all posted on whats going to happen.
 
John,
i might be contacting you about the chrome moly for this build...
we will see what the customer wants to do.
care to shoot me a price for the 92 troopy ?
 
John,
i might be contacting you about the chrome moly for this build...
we will see what the customer wants to do.
care to shoot me a price for the 92 troopy ?

I have a price sheet at work... I'll email this to myself and hope that I actually read it :rolleyes:

~John
 
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