Dual battery + Rear Mod completed (Problems with AHC shocks) (1 Viewer)

[siglo]

I've finished adding a dual long ranger tank, heavy duty OME shocks (don't have the part number handy), Kaymar rear bumper with tire carrier etc

The car is very bouncy in the rear now.. even when I set the AHC shocks to the stiffest setting.. I've emptied the water tank so it's better now but still bouncy..
Do you think there is a solution without removing AHC completely?

also, do you guys think it's save to travel with the LC with the rear end being slightly bouncy? (no off road travel, will be on road all the time)



Also finished my dual battery setup.. here are some pics and I'll give more details when I come back from my trip..


This is the water tap

solenoid control switch

High Amp Marine switch

Where the water goes into the water tank...

relocated power steering fluid

blue sea automatic solenoid (got fed up with "the perfect switch" fiasco!)

Side view of the long ranger dual tank

 

[97 FZJ80]

Very nice setup! I guess you're also tired of waiting for the "perfect switch" What is the purpose of the water tanks? Where are the water tanks located?

John

 

[siglo]

@97 FZJ80
I wanted it to store water for washing, cooking and perhaps drinking on long trips rather than jerry cans.. I kind off regret it now, but it's the first day I try the LC after installing the tank.. you can see where the tank is located in the last pic.. it's that gray thing you see behind the water tap.. the top of the tank is for water and the bottom is for fuel.. it replaces the factory SUB tank..

 

[Jim_Chow]

Not sure what you mean when you say you have heavy-duty OME shocks but have AHC. Do AHC vehicles have normal shocks, too? (ie, is the AHC separate hydraulic lifters that only lift and perform no shock absorption?) Having never seen the AHC components, I thought they performed both shock absorption and lift in one package. Any way you could post some pics?

 

[hoser]

I think Siglo meant to say "heavy duty OME springs" since he had mentioned getting them before.

Sig--Here's my best guess at what's happening. Is the rear end of your LC higher than stock height? When that is the case, the AHC sensors see the vehicle higher than it should be--so it reduces hydraulic fluid in the shocks in an attempt to lower the height--but in effect, reducing the amount of shock dampening to almost none.

You may have re-adjust the AHC sensors in the rear to reflect the new height. Of course, I might be totally wrong about all this but this is my best guess. Btw, your rig is coming along nicely.

 

[siglo]

@Jim_Chow
oh.. my bad.. I meant heavy duty coil springs for the rear end..

@hoser
Good Guess!!
I've checked the hydraulic fluid canister in the engine compartment earlier and it was full of fluid way over the max line.. I don't know how that got passed me as I've adjusted the sensors when I installed the OME t-bars.. I'll try to adjust the rear sensors ASAP.. I've driven the LC around for a while today and it seems controllable and okay to travel with as long as I don't go over 120KM/h

 

[Jim_Chow]

Hoser, those are the types of shock extension brackets I was referring to from your AHC lift thread. I found one pic in my LC magazine, but it was too dark to scan. I'll try to scan some pics this weekend of some AHC rigs w/ IFS lifts up to 6". The mags I have say you need the shock extension brackets for AHC or your AHC ability will be compromised (they didn't describe specifically what would happen, but the kanji used was to the effect that it would be 'killed').

 

[hoser]

Siglo--I hope that solves your problem. Please let me know us know your findings.

Jim--thanks for the info. I'm still trying to figure out the whole 2" shock bracket thing. The picture above is listed for the rears. But can I use them up front? It looks like it.

I am also wondering if I used the 2" shock bracket, would I need to increase the height of my bumpstops (I'd rather not do). What I hope to gain by using the brackets is to keep the AHC shocks within it's optimal operating range, to retain all 3 modes (L-N-H), even though I only care about two (N-H). I also hope the brackets will increase the rear suspension's down travel.

 

[FirstToy]

Siglo,
That is a sharp looking truck!! Nice work on the mods

 

[Jim_Chow]

How does one recalibrate the sensors?

 

[siglo]

came back from my trip and the LC was too bouncy and kind of scary to drive, but I made it thank God

I took it the other day to have the sensors adjusted.. the technician hooked it up to the reader and adjusted the sensor as far as he could but it didn't work.. so, I told them to use a softer coil spring by OME (don't have the part number of that either).. still waiting on the outcome of that..

about the dual battery setup, I've started with Slee's setup and trimmed that down a little.. the electrician was not quite confident about my current setup so that is bugging me a bit.. I've made a diagram of my setup so you guys can give me your input.. my electrical background is really limited so excuse my diagram.. the interior switch I'm using now is a little different from the one on the diagram.. I'll try to order that switch you see in the diagram from blue sea when I get the chance..

 

[Mike S]

Siglo

I do not see the alternator in your diagram?

I have never seen a Blue Sea ACR set up that way. They recommend that the Alt charging line go to the primary battery, and the primary and secondary battery hot side cables attach directly to the ACR terminals. On my install, I put power distribibution near the ACR, and used that for the fusable link to power the house loads. The starter is direct hot link via the primary battery.

I can see what you are trying to do with powering the winch while maintaining auto charging for both batteries.

The hot side leads (AWG 2) seem pretty light, expecially for the winch. I would consider using 1/0 welding cable - I am afraid that the winch AMP draw will be pretty high, perhaps too high for the no. 2 cable.

M

 

[siglo]

@Mike S
thanks for all the info

about the alternator.. all factory connection have been retained for the primary battery, so I guess that is where the alternator is connected..

do you think connecting the cables to the manual switch and then to the ACR will affect the sensors of the ACR?

I tried to locate 1/0 gauge cable locally but I couldn't.. that is why I've used 2/0 gauge.. I've checked with the cable chart included with the ACR before I handed my car to the electrician and you are right.. I would at least need 1/0 cable.. do you know any place online that sells 1/0 gauge cables crimped and cut to my desired length?

thanks again mike

 

[Rich]

In the diagram above the relay is connected to the batteries. There is no switching of the relay being performed by the 4 way battery switch.

 

[siglo]

@Rich

excuse my lousy electrical diagram skills.. I was trying to show that the cables from the batteries to the switch and the cables from the switch to the ACR are always in contact regardless of the manual switch position. the switch is connected in a way to supply power to the winch from battery one, battery two, both batteries or disconnect power to the winch all together. it does not affect which battery is connected to the ACR at all.

 

[Mike S]

In the diagram above the relay is connected to the batteries. There is no switching of the relay being performed by the 4 way battery switch.

Yes. Connected to both batteries. No. No switching of the relay by the 4 way batt switch, this is handled through the control line and dash switch. This should not effect the ACR operation, which will isolate or combined based on the Voltage delta between the batteries.

Urban Lancruisers will make you a nice set of custom cables, they are listed un der Vendors. Some people like to make a direct cable connection between the alternator and the primary battery, which they say is more efficient.

My point is - - for charging, the AWG 6 wire between the ACR and 4 way terminal is fine. But I believe that if you get in a situation where the 4 way switch is on OFF, and the primary battery is low voltage, the ACR will isolate the primary and you will be starting off the secondary battery - and that power will be moved through the ACR to the primary side, where the connection to the starter is. Pull enough AMPs and you will fry the AWG 6 wire.

In short, I feel the same size cable (1/0) should be used for the 4 way termnal to ACR links.

The normal ACR mode is to combine batteries when they are voltage balanced, and when the alt is charging at normal levels. When one is low, it charges the primary first, then combines both batteries to charge the secondary through the primary connection. I have not reviewed the specs on my ACR for more than 6 months, so I might have this wrong, but I don't think so.

M

 

[siglo]

@Mike S
interesting point on the AWG 6 wire.. I've also email blue sea to get their opinion on the setup..
I'll try to have all my length and lug size requirements ready as soon as I can and contact urban landcruisers and see what they have to offer..

 

[Rich]

Siglo

I do not see the alternator in your diagram?

I have never seen a Blue Sea ACR set up that way. They recommend that the Alt charging line go to the primary battery, and the primary and secondary battery hot side cables attach directly to the ACR terminals...

Perhaps I wasn't clear. The diagram as is does depict exactly the above. Factory connections to main battery remain, so this would, without an exception being noted, include the alternator connection. The batteries positive (hot side) cables are attached directly to the ACR terminals, it just so happens that a 4 way switch is also connected to the same battery terminals. The switch does not alter the functioning of the relay.

 

[Rich]

Siglo, no problem with the diagram, it is clear to me with one exception. The aspect that I do not understand is connecting the alternator good line to the relay. My only reference is the install instructions from Bluesea, and the connections they show are ground, control, and LED status. You show control, LED status, and Alternator Good.

 

[Mike S]

Of course, Rich.

I suppose that you have no problem switching 150 AMPs thru the AWG 6 then?

M