Dual Batteries vs Antigravity

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Looking for some opinions. I recently received an ARB 63 qt fridge as a gift. I also run a 900 watt amp and would like to add a few 12 volt and usb outlets in the back of my 100. I'm debating the need for a dual battery system vs just going with a group 31 and an antigravity jump pack and possibly a solar panel. I'll be using the fridge on camping trips and don't normally stay in one place for more than 1 or 2 nights. I'm thinking the single battery, jump pack, and solar would be enough for my needs, but am also a big believer in being over prepared and would hate to have the battery fail in the middle of nowhere without a backup. Opinions?
 
The anti gravity will be your "oh crap I killed the battery" safety net.
The group 31 will be good for 1 day using the fridge a on cloudy day (without over discharging the batt)
The solar panel is what will power all your accessories.
Get a big solar panel & you'll be set.

But know that if you run the big battery down so far that it can't start the car, you've damaged it significantly.

Also charging a big dead battery with the engine is a great way to burn up an alternator.
 
I run an Indel B TB51 fridge in my LC using a single Optima yellow top for starting and deep cycling. I ran heavy gauge wire from my engine bay to my cargo area for less resistance. In the cargo bay I installed Anderson Powerpoles connectors and spliced a matching plug onto the fridge's 12V wire.
The longest I have left the fridge on without starting the vehicle is about 20 hours. This is with the fridge set to 34f and outside temps in the mid 80s. ZERO issue with starting afterwards. I have been running this battery for about a year and have used the fridge on about 10 trips.
I am confident in my setup but with all that said, I am looking at portable jumpers and would feel better having one with me.
 
900 Watt amp?
 
Some good info over in the Power Systems forum
 
900 Watt amp?

Alpine PDXV-9. Says 100 RMS X 4, plus 500 RMS to the sub. I'm no audio expert and thought that was the total watts. Apparently it's a 1600 watt amp. Thanks for the replies so far, I'm starting to lean toward dual batteries plus solar. I want to do it right, but not go overboard if it's not necessary.
 
should be fine in principle, if you have a (important!) dual purpose main battery and if it's a reliable jumper box.
You may need to start the engine and recharge the battery after the first day if you don't have a solar panel, though, as your typical battery/fridge combo may be iffy after a day or so. I would go with a panel.
 
Thanks everybody. So far, nobody seems to see a need for a dual battery system, which works for me. I do like the the Overland Solar set up in the link, but then again, I know nothing about solar. I guess I have some research to do. I'll probably stick with the single battery for now and add a solar panel and Antigravity XP10 for piece of mind. I can always add the 2nd battery later if needed. Any other recommendations for solar systems or batteries? Is 90 watt enough or would it make sense to go up to a 150 watt?
 
Batteries plus carries a pretty mean x2 power group 31 that is built for deep cycle and starting duty. It has the heat shields needed to live under the hood of a vehicle built into the case. They're pricey but come with a good warranty.
 
90W seems about right for a fridge and few little electronics/lights. 150W seems a bit too much to me.
 
I emulated the 100W solar power setup described here: Rubicon Solar Power Experience and it worked great on Rubithon last month. No I didn't do the Rubicon in my 100, I was in my 60. My wife would kill me if I did that!
 
I ran my old 63 qt ARB fridge at 38 degrees for 3 days on a group 31 DHP down in Baja without starting the cruiser and it restarted just fine.
 
The potential problem child in your mix of electrical accessories seems to be the amps. Get a fix on daily consumed power/amp draw and you will likely find the best answer to your question (amp meter).

While you're at it this would be a good time to know what your parasitic draw is on the amps when the system (head unit and maybe preamp are off)...they typically are not switched via ignition...mine are not.

FWIW I, since there are periods of time when the 100 sits for a week or more, added a circuit breaker with on/off to control electrical power to the amps when/if I want to cut the full time amp's electrical draw.
 
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The potential problem child in your mix of electrical accessories seems to be the amps. Get a fix on daily consumed power/amp draw and you will likely find the best answer to your question (amp meter).

While you're at it this would be a good time to know what your parasitic draw is on the amps when the system (head unit and maybe preamp are off)...they typically are not switched via ignition...mine are not.

FWIW I, since there are periods of time when the 100 sits for a week or more, added a circuit breaker with on/off to control electrical power to the amps when/if I want to cut the full time amp's electrical draw.

Thanks Spressomon, great recommendations. I will definitely get an amp meter to get an idea of what I need. My 100 often sits for a week or more as well, so the circuit breaker for the amps is another thing I'll be looking into and installing. Do you have any specific recommendations on amp meters and circuit breakers for this?

While the Overland Solar looks like a great system, it appears that the controllers are mounted to the panels. It seems like most here recommend the controller not be mounted to the panel so that it can be kept closer to the battery when charging. It also seems a little high priced at $499 for the 90w. I have no issue spending more to get higher quality, but want to be sure I'm getting the best value. Does anybody have any other recommendations for portable solar systems in the 100w range?
 
I went through the same thought process as you, gravitating from hard mount dual batteries, to an external power pack, back to a hard mounted single deep cycle battery and eventually supplementing that with a solar panel, with a large lithium pack for backup. My power needs are pretty simple, I have an Edgestar 86qt and several "always on" power outlets which are constantly used to charge phones, cameras, camp lights etc. Being a little bit fanatical about weight and minimalism, I went with a single battery + solar. I wouldn't even have the fridge if I didn't have a need for cold beer every night at camp, and a large group of people with different levels of gourmet eating needs..

Battery is a Group 49 which fits without mods in the stock battery tray (I did simple tray mods to ensure a rigid installation). This is close to the Ah of a Group 31 and is backed by the Sams club 3 year replacement warranty. The solar panel I chose is 50w which I've found to be adequate for 2 days (48 hrs) without starting the engine. I chose a 50w flexible over a 100 since it's easier to stow in the back and can always double up if needed. The charge controller is tiny enough to ziptie directly to the 10ga cabling and is connected via a hard mounted SAE plug that is accessible on the front bumper.

I supplement this with a lithium jump pack and also the comfort of knowing that I have 2 or 3 other trucks in the group to help out if it didn't start in the morning, or worst case call for help on my InReach. If I were going solo to Africa or South America I might have done dual batteries....

Here is my setup FWIW:

Minimalist approach - OEM battery + solar? - Page 3 - Expedition Portal
 
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