Driving on clicking birfs-does it hurt anything? (1 Viewer)

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The birfs on my ‘97 click when I turn. If I am going to replace the joints when I do the whole birf job anyway; then does driving on it for a while hurt anything? Thanks.
 
The birfs on my ‘97 click when I turn. If I am going to replace the joints when I do the whole birf job anyway; then does driving on it for a while hurt anything? Thanks.

Hurts the birf

If it goes pop, potential for more damage inside the knuckle.

Once they start clicking, you're on borrowed time.
Having said that, you'll hear plenty of FWD s***boxes with CV joints clicking terribly while turning through intersections.
So how much time to do you have?
Don't push them hard turning left/right at 90⁰ intersections you'll get longer out of them
 
The birfs on my ‘97 click when I turn. If I am going to replace the joints when I do the whole birf job anyway; then does driving on it for a while hurt anything? Thanks.
Just normal driving "for a while"?

No.

Mark
 
FWIW I swapped mine side to side, that was about five years ago and it been fine. Yup I know I’ll have to replace them but it’s bought me about 40,000 miles so far.
 
FWIW I swapped mine side to side, that was about five years ago and it been fine. Yup I know I’ll have to replace them but it’s bought me about 40,000 miles so far.
I did the same thing about 50k miles ago. Working great (knock on wood). Recently got new ones OEM for $240 each; will install at next service. Keep the "old" ones for backup.
Re: clicking, I'd be on that right quick.
 
Swapped clicking/worn birfs side-to-side in my 96 model 100,000 miles ago, still running, no clicking but then no off-road driving so less stress on those Birfs. What may have helped is that I added a very high percent Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide) paste made by Honda (60% Moly) meant for motorcycle driveshaft splines mixed with Valvoline Palladium 3% Moly grease.

Unfortunately that specific Honda product is no longer available but a good substitute IME is Loctite LB 8012 which has 65% Molybdenum. IME the LB 8012 is compatible with Lithium Complex greases and can be brushed heavily inside the cup or bell of the Birf (or mix with grease before you pack the Birf). It also can be brushed onto the splines of the CV joints (Birfs) as well as on the spindle bushings followed by whichever grease you're using for the knuckles.

FWIW

Loctite LB 8012 resized 540x960.jpg


FWIW here's a photo of my Frankenstine Moly grease. I mixed (Mobil) Mobilith SHC 460 synthetic PAO grease with the LB 8012 (roughly~8-10 parts grease to 1 part Moly), stirred very well repeatedly, then using a flat stir stick pulled the stick straight up which formed peaks of grease. Then put the bowl above a warm surface (~110'F) and let it sit there for a week. The grease did not slump or separate so I called it a good (enough) test of compatibility. Have used it for Driveshaft splines also.

Mobilith SHC 460 on the right, Mobilith SHC 460 mixed with LB 8012 on the left after sitting undisturbed for a week:

Mobilith SHC 460 and LB8012 mixed.jpg
 
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If it's only for a short time and you're not wheeling or anything like that, run it. Won't hurt to get a bit of moly grease in there if it's low though.
 
Avoid really sharp turns....
Add some grease if you haven't already done so.
Start gathering tools, parts and consumables,and do the good on your terms.
 

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