Driving Lights to High Beams?

[Docmallory]

Installing some FF1000 Hellas on my 80. I'd like them tied into the high beams. Problem is that the high beam wiring is not straight-forward.

Two wires going into the high beam, A and B.

Low beams on: A is hot and B is hot
High Beams on: A is hot and B has no current.
Lights off: A and B have no current.
???

If I had thought ahead I could have ordered the Slee harness. But since I didn't, does anyone know how to wire this up, either using the headlamp switch wiring or the wiring at the headlamp itself?

(If there's a write-up on this, I couldn't find it)

 

[MoJ]

Sorry, gotta ask......you're positive you don't have that backwards?

BTW, what year?

 

[T Y L E R]

• 85 = ground
• 86 is triggered by your 'B' wire
• 87 = nothing perhaps
• 87a = +12 VDC going to your driving lights
• 30 = +12 VDC

 

[MoJ]

Also - What color are the wires? Trying to locate in the FSM wiring diagram.

 

[MoJ]

Whew, Tyler=fast guy.

 

[T Y L E R]

I'm only basing my logic on what you're telling me about your 'A' and 'B' wire .. I am looking at the electrical manual now .. but I kinda suck at reading scematics .. so I'll stick with what I've said .. until you tell me you've confirmed a/b/hot/cold yadda yaddi ..

So all you need is a few feet of wire and an automotive relay ...

PS : 87a could always go to your low beams ... +12 VDC

T

 

[Docmallory]

Okay, here's the update -

Yes, I'm very, very sure I don't have it reversed.

This is for the US model 1997 FZJ-80.

Passenger side wires are red/yellow and red/white(?? - very dirty and dark)

Driver's side A= red with a blue stripe
Driver's side B= red with a yellow stripe

Low beams on: A (red/blue stripe) is hot and B (red/yellow stripe) is hot
High Beams on: A is hot and B has no current.
Lights off: A and B have no current.

 

[Docmallory]

I found this on the net, but still can't see how the system works the way it does....

http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/lights/80wiring4.gif

 

[T Y L E R]

a and b cold when off eh ? Hmmm that might not be good !

let me think here ....

 

[T Y L E R]

ok

 

[T Y L E R]

This is just off the top of my head .. a million things happening here ... so bear with me ..

Below only describes things as this circuit above works :

• A + B hot = Nothing
• A hot / B cold = Driving lights
• A cold = circuit off

 

[T Y L E R]

I'm not an electrical genius by any stretch ... but looking at it quickly one realy sol'n seemed to leave the lights hot even with A cold / lights shut down . So I added a second fail safe relay to provide for that .... it is represented by the lower relay ...

Hope all that crap makes sense .. :-\

Tyler

 

[Docmallory]

Here's what I think you are saying:

Run a relay off wire A (which is hot when any lights are on). This will send juice to the driving lights via the second relay when the lights (low or high beam) are activated.

The second relay will act as a switch, so that when wire B is hot, the switch to the driving lights is turned off.

Right?

Soooo, okay... I just need to find a relay that will do this second part. Maybe Radio Shack has them....

 

[T Y L E R]

Yes , and you can always 'borrow' the juice from 87 on the upper relay to power your low beams ... as it will probably experience less voltage loss along it's short travels ...

 

[landtank]

TYLER offering technical expertise....will wonders never seize.

 

[T Y L E R]

Yes .. will wonders ever 'cease' ?

 

[RavenTai]

you do not need 2 relays,

from my 96 LX450 ewd: the headlight relay provides bat + voltage to both the high and low beams whenever the headlights are “on”, the lows have a constant ground so they turn on when the headlight relay is on but the highs have a switched ground through the headlight switch, only when this ground is provided do the highs come on, since an unlit bulb is a direct short (low resistance) that is why you see voltage on both sides of the high bulb


give the coil side of your driving light relay a constant Bat + ground the other side of the coil to the red and yellow headlight wire, this same yellow and red wire is also in the dash for the high beam indication I would grab it there or somewhere else in the cab instead of behind the headlight to much water and dust out but you would need the EWD to find the right wires

 

[RavenTai]

don't forget a fuse every place you draw from the battery or any other un-fused "+" source , all or your wiring should be sized large enough to pop the fuse without heating, even the wires that run the coil sides of the relays although in normal service they carry little current they may one day be called appon to pop the fuse and should be sized appropriately

 

[landtank]

[quote author=T Y L E R link=board=2;threadid=17171;start=msg166445#msg166445 date=1085893379]
Yes .. will wonders ever 'cease' ?
[/quote]


Guess not....I got a canuck correcting my English

 

[T Y L E R]

[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=17171;start=msg166628#msg166628 date=1085952500]
Guess not....I got a canuck correcting my English
[/quote]
...Oh , and here I thought you were speaking from personal experience ... I mean you are 50 something , right ? Parts of ya have to be 'seizing' up by now .. :bust2:

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