Drivetrain Fluids. US Land Cruiser

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Given that all the info we are supplied with is true, it's more than IMO... and there is no issue running a good quality 75W90 GL 5. The LF75W is just a GL 5 spec gear oil of extremely high quality (again, it needs to be at such a thin grade) built to improve mileage.
 
Thanks. Anyone have a list of part #'s for the gaskets and/or anything else I need? Also are you guys just draining the 3 quarts in the A/T pan and filling it or is there a procedure to drain the entire 12.6 quarts from the transmission?
 
I’m thinking about having my Lexus dealer change the fluid in my differentials front and rear at 30,000 miles and waiting to 60,000 miles to do the differential fluid change reasoning is any time ive ever changed the driveline fluids in my Land Cruiser‘s or LX’s the transfer case fluid always looks brand new and the differentials are very dirty especially on the first change what do you guys think? it’s a mall cruiser.
 
I did all three at about 40K. I tow a 6500# boat trailer and a 3000# enclosed trailer on long trips a couple of times a year. The diff plugs had huge amounts of captured fine debris (at least way more than I expected, though others here have said it is normal) and I don't remember anything surprising out of the TC. Then again, by the time I got to the TC I was thinking more about getting done and a cold beer than I was the condition of the fluid. Bottom Line: I loaded all three up with Severe Gear and now I won't worry about it for another couple of years.
 
FinallyGotOne! said:
I did all three at about 40K. I tow a 6500# boat trailer and a 3000# enclosed trailer on long trips a couple of times a year. The diff plugs had huge amounts of captured fine debris (at least way more than I expected, though others here have said it is normal) and I don't remember anything surprising out of the TC. Then again, by the time I got to the TC I was thinking more about getting done and a cold beer than I was the condition of the fluid. Bottom Line: I loaded all three up with Severe Gear and now I won't worry about it for another couple of years.
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Anyone recommend doing this in the first year if i'm not towing? Seeing all the people stating they are getting a large amount of debris makes me think changing it within the first 15,000 miles might not be a bad investment.
 
I'd be picky on Trans Fluid (because those magic boxes seem to live on the edge between working and failure even under the best conditions) and Coolant (because of specific corrosion inhibitors). Gear oil? Not so much. There's nothing special about a Toyota third, other than it's robust. Run some M1 75w-90 and be done with it. Or run some Napa dino juice if you're cheap. I change mine out annually or if I've had it underwater (like over the axle water crossing, not splashing through a deep puddle).
 
OregonLC said:
I'd be picky on Trans Fluid (because those magic boxes seem to live on the edge between working and failure even under the best conditions) and Coolant (because of specific corrosion inhibitors). Gear oil? Not so much. There's nothing special about a Toyota third, other than it's robust. Run some M1 75w-90 and be done with it. Or run some Napa dino juice if you're cheap. I change mine out annually or if I've had it underwater (like over the axle water crossing, not splashing through a deep puddle).
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Figure do it between 25-30 and I'm good until 90k
 
I think most of the debris in the front and rear diffs build up in the first 500 miles while the ring and pinion are getting broken in. So, I changed those fluids at 500 miles and will do it next at 30k or sooner depending on how I drive it.

If you regeared the diffs you'd alao change at 500 and the next time would depend on usage - towing, off roading, mall crawling...

Toyota is proud of their synthetic 75w-85 gear oil @ $37/quart. Mobile 1 is $12 & AMSoil is $20ish. It takes 7 quarts to do the front and rear diffs, plus new drain plug gaskets. You need a gear oil pump, which is cheap.
 
I found it odd when I asked my local dealer (as posted in the other thread) that they say only to use the required 75w LF fluid but when I went to purchase it from the parts guys, they had to order the $75 cans of it as it wasn’t in stock. I know the parts guys real well and they said their service department uses bulk B&G products and puts an additive in it. I’ll use the LF fluid until the warranty runs out and then switch to a Amsoil. I run Amsoil in everything else and it’s only $13 a quart.
 
For those of you changing your fluids, one of these (see link below) works much easier than the POS hand pumps. It only holds 18 oz, so you have to fill it a few times, but only takes 2 seconds to load up. It made the front and transfer case a breeze, and pumps in super fast. For the rear diff, I recommend removing the spare tire and just squeezing it in directly from the bottle. I have used the M1 Syn 75w90 in every Toyota I have owned, amassing over 600k miles and my diffs have been trouble free. Then again, my brother has over 200k on his 2004 tacoma and it is still on the original diff fluid and is still working great (he has only changed oil and filter on the thing).




https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1185-Black-Suction-Vinyl/dp/B000MD4YNY/?tag=ihco-20
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SWUtah said:
I get a kick out of the fact the service recommendations in the owners manual for my 2011 LX never recommends any drivetrain fluid changes unless you are towing, severe service WTF. I will change them at 35K and the transmission fluid with WS at 100k, but I am a mall cruiser. I would go with Jowett recommendation or ask Slee. Last year they did all synthetics in my 100, plus WS exchange in the trans.
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that true in new LC like I have 2009 you do not need to change it but I did it, so when I was draining old it was very clean - I have 60K
 
vapilotda said:
I found it odd when I asked my local dealer (as posted in the other thread) that they say only to use the required 75w LF fluid but when I went to purchase it from the parts guys, they had to order the $75 cans of it as it wasn’t in stock. I know the parts guys real well and they said their service department uses bulk B&G products and puts an additive in it. I’ll use the LF fluid until the warranty runs out and then switch to a Amsoil. I run Amsoil in everything else and it’s only $13 a quart.
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My dealer uses Kendall 0W 20 for oil filter changes not Toyota LOL I suspect for the drivetrain they are using a cheaper stuff too and just charge more money this makes me feel like I want to keep that LF fluid in there till atleast 60,000 miles so I’ll probably just do the differentials because that’s where the wear is and they benefit from a early fluid change. Mines a mall cruiser
 
SWUtah said:
My dealer uses Kendall 0W 20 for oil filter changes not Toyota LOL I suspect for the drivetrain they are using a cheaper stuff too and just charge more money this makes me feel like I want to keep that LF fluid in there till atleast 60,000 miles so I’ll probably just do the differentials because that’s where the wear is and they benefit from a early fluid change. Mines a mall cruiser
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Absolutely, I’m OCD (as is all of us here) about our cruisers and want the best. Gears break in and create metal. I flushed all fluids at 20k and certainly had wear material on the magnets on the differentials. Just hit 60k and am going to change it all out again. Certainly can’t hurt and it’s not hard nor is it very expensive. Just peace of mind for us obsessed cruiser folk!
 
vapilotda said:
Absolutely, I’m OCD (as is all of us here) about our cruisers and want the best. Gears break in and create metal. I flushed all fluids at 20k and certainly had wear material on the magnets on the differentials. Just hit 60k and am going to change it all out again. Certainly can’t hurt and it’s not hard nor is it very expensive. Just peace of mind for us obsessed cruiser folk!
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Post what you find out the 60,000 mile flush be interested know how clear it looks I’m doing mine in a week or so at about 26,000 miles front, rear differential $79 each but I got a $50 off thing from the Lexus dealer so not a bad deal. I’m gonna do the transfer case at 60,000
 
SWUtah said:
My dealer uses Kendall 0W 20 for oil filter changes not Toyota LOL I suspect for the drivetrain they are using a cheaper stuff too and just charge more money this makes me feel like I want to keep that LF fluid in there till atleast 60,000 miles so I’ll probably just do the differentials because that’s where the wear is and they benefit from a early fluid change. Mines a mall cruiser
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considering that the Toyota gear oil is 75$ per qt :eek:, it would be a tough sell to do a 4x4 service when it would be over 400 just in oil. as long as the gear oil meets or exceeds the requirements that Toyota specifies you can put in whatever gear oil you want
 
bigredmachine said:
considering that the Toyota gear oil is 75$ per qt :eek:, it would be a tough sell to do a 4x4 service when it would be over 400 just in oil. as long as the gear oil meets or exceeds the requirements that Toyota specifies you can put in whatever gear oil you want
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I’d be surprised if the Lexus dealer has using anything other than the required lube per spec. Another reason I’m waiting to 60,000 miles for the transfer case is I’ve never even put this thing into 4 low and I’ve had seven of these 80,100& 200s and every time I’ve ever changed the transfer case at 30,000 60,000 the transfer case fluid looks smelled and was fine and clear. But the diffs need to be changed by 30k
 
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