Driveshaft alignment question (1 Viewer)

[Cirbo]

I'm working on placement of the Vortec/Torque Splitter/H42/ transfer in between the frame rails of a '67 FJ45-LPB. To clear the steering shaft from the saginaw box, I needed to center the engine in the bay. (Common wisdom says to cheat the motor one inch towards the drivers side for driveshaft alignment)

The rear driveshaft appears to be almost dead on, but the front shaft doesn't line up as well as I'd like. If you hold a square up to the transfer case yoke, it appears to be off center alignment with the front yoke by about 2.5 to 3 inches.

How important will this end up being?

TIA,

Jim

 

[chicago]

Im no expert on this, but I think a DC joint on there might help that offset. What do you plan on doing with the rig. Is it gonna be a DD?

 

[Fast Eddy]

a DC joint on there might help that offset

If it's spring-under, it should be fine. If it's spring-over I'd make a DC joint driveshaft for sure. Remember, it's off by more than 2-3 inches in the vertical direction already. The compound angles don't make it that much worse.

 

[Cirbo]

Yea, the plan is for a DD and wheeler all packaged up into one truck. I suspect it will stay spring under too.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Please keep them comming.

jC

 

[Eskimo]

Driveshafts don't know the difference between vertical offset and horizontal offset.. angles are angles.

 

[Cirbo]

Driveshafts don't know the difference between vertical offset and horizontal offset.. angles are angles.

Very true, but what happens when you combine two offsets...

 

[bustanutley]

Nothing, you just need to make sure the flanges planes are parallel within two degrees and you won't get vibs. So as long as your drivtrain is straight and the axle is straight the offset is cancelled out, however vertical alignment of the outputs becomes more critical in your case, this is for a traditional shaft. Generally a CV shaft is a poor choice in this case, but depending on how much angle the normal ujoint ends up taking it probably isn't a big deal, again, less than two degrees or so.

 

[srgould41]

I would personally be mostly worried about DS clearance while flexing the suspension. I've seen a few build posts using centered TC's and offset axles without vibration issues.

 

[Chop Shop]

Driveshafts don't know the difference between vertical offset and horizontal offset.. angles are angles.

I know its crazy huh? My driveline still works fine anytime I lay my truck on its side.

I love this argument. I get guys tell me all the time ya cant have a crooked driveline, BS, it just needs to be parallel with the upper shaft.

It refreshing to hear some common sense in here.

And I agree with the nutly on this one, a CV is a poor choice.

 

[Cirbo]

I think it's rather odd that someone would use the phrase "common sense" when discussing anything to do with my work....

Well, maybe if coupled with "lack of".....

 

[Tapage]

how much are you willing to use your front axle on road at high speed ?

 

[walken100]

Very true, but what happens when you combine two offsets...

Square the angles, add them then take the square root. That represents the effective angle the shaft sees. (you may want to check me, found the info on the internet previously and had it varified by a driveline shop. That said, my memory taint what it used to be).

I've got a similar situation except I'm playing with my driveline to gain some clearance for larger u-joints with a downey 700r4 adapter (long story). The short version is that a little side angle was much better than a lot of vertical angle. I am planning on a double cardan however....

I'll watch and see how this pans out.

 

[srgould41]

You are trying a CV next to the 700R4? Good luck with that. I'd love to see the results if you can make it work. My small diameter 1310's don't clear the pan. I had to beat the pan until it was up against the valve body and then I only have 1/4" from the ujoint to the trans body itself.

Square the angles, add them then take the square root. That represents the effective angle the shaft sees. (you may want to check me, found the info on the internet previously and had it varified by a driveline shop. That said, my memory taint what it used to be).

I've got a similar situation except I'm playing with my driveline to gain some clearance for larger u-joints with a downey 700r4 adapter (long story). The short version is that a little side angle was much better than a lot of vertical angle. I am planning on a double cardan however....

I'll watch and see how this pans out.

 

[walken100]

You are trying a CV next to the 700R4? Good luck with that. I'd love to see the results if you can make it work. My small diameter 1310's don't clear the pan. I had to beat the pan until it was up against the valve body and then I only have 1/4" from the ujoint to the trans body itself.

So as not to hijack this thread here is my thread. Suffice it to say that it isn't "in the bag" yet but I think I have a couple of options........ wish me luck.

 

[chicago]

I'll be curious to find out about this too. With my 4l60E, my clearance around the pan is really tight too. Had a dc shaft built, but may need to run the single cuz the dc cage is the culprit. However, my rig is a toy and not a DD, so 4wd at speed is not so important.

 

[PPFJ60]

I run a 1310 CV drive shaft with my 700R4. I had to clearance the tranny pan a little but it works great.

I will be ordering a 8" travel 1310 next week from Tom Woods. My spline travel is a little on short side when wheeling hard. Since I will going Ultimate Adventure 2011 I will use my existing drive shaft as a spare.