My 98 100 series driver's side window not responding. Only driver's side and all others are working fine. What could be the issue?
Driver's side window not working
- Thread starter ct005ke002
- Start date
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Switch contacts need cleaning or motor's out.
hifu
Ran So Far to Find a Clear Spot......capt B
Is there play in the switch, like not as solid as the others? Mine did this and what I found was the plastic molding was cracked and not making contact on a regular basis, plus all the corrosion in the electrical plugs to boot. If it is cracked it can be repaired with a little fiberglass.
APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
Are the switches available individually, or is the entire drivers door switch module the only option?
My drivers window switch is possessed. Works most of the time, but will go 'dead' often, them come back to life within a few minutes.
My drivers window switch is possessed. Works most of the time, but will go 'dead' often, them come back to life within a few minutes.
the driver side is the master switch and comes as 1 unit, all 4 window switches door lock and window lock. dosnt cost anything to try to fix it first
APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
Agreed. Mine has a lot of miles, so it may be a basket case. Still, its worth a shot. Looks like the master switch module runs around $300 and all but the drivers side switch are working fine.
Hope this helps, its a lot cheaper than a new switch - https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/542339-drivers-door-wiring-harness-fixed.html
APKhaos
Unfixing the unfixable
Already got that one bookmarked - thanks! The drivers side switch always works eventually. May be harness problem, but I'll take a look at the switch internals first. Its had LOTS of cycles.
- Thread starter
- #9
Got a new master switch and it all works now however the driver's window bounces back when it goes all the way up. I need to have it adjusted. How do I do that?
- Thread starter
- #10
Just found it in the forum. Holdup for 5 second to reprogram it. Problem solved.
Can I bump this as my drivers window went INOP today,
Odd though I can hear what seems to be a relay clicking inside the door when I operate the switch in both directions.
I’m thinking the motor finally died. Thankfully in the up/closed position.
All other windows work as designed.
Toyota junk didn’t last to 456K, hahahaha. Currently at 445546 and counting!
I’m going to see if it works in the AM when it’s all cooled down, if not I’ll check for voltage to the motor this weekend and report back.
Hey GB!!! Check the wiring in the rubber conduit between the door and the kick panel/fuse box. Take the door panel off, pull the rubber conduit loose and look for broken wires. I had a similar situation. For a while, my window would only operate with the door closed. Then it stopped completely. Pulled the rubber back and found a broken wire and a couple of more chafed. I repaired the wires and wrapped the entire bundle in electrical tape. That was probably 4-5 years ago.
What @Dwight S said, I had the exact same issue. Spliced the wires, that only lasted me a month or so. Left window up all winter while looking for a used wire harness, no luck so bought a brand new one and I figure I'm good for another 14yrs.
Well I jumped in her to head to work and the window works, lol...
So that means this weekend I’m digging and looking for a faulty electrical connection. The heat from soaking in the sun all day expanded something.
I appreciate you guys helping me out so quick.
So that means this weekend I’m digging and looking for a faulty electrical connection. The heat from soaking in the sun all day expanded something.
I appreciate you guys helping me out so quick.
Make sure you close out the thread with whatever you find for others in the future.
Finally diggin in and I'm frustrated!!!!
MS=Master Switch
FSM=Factory Service Manual
Last night on the way home the "AUTO" light was flashing... Which is a good thing as per the FSM it's trying to flash one of three different trouble codes. I hadn't noticed it flashing before as I have been driving the Taco mostly. Turns out two of the codes indicate wiring issues and one code (or the fact that the "AUTO" light isn't flashing) means the MS is faulty.
Today I get the door panel off, LOTS of electrical tape removed and also pulled the harness back through the body hole so it's all in front of me coming out of the speaker hole (speaker removed). Which was quite easy to do thankfully.
The MS won't blink now... Which the FSM says is a faulty MS.
Agh!!! I though the wiring was the culprit, so I read further into the FSM diagnostic chart and I see some continuity tests that would reveal if it was the MS. I am perplexed and really believe my harness is OK and it's the switch. It's very difficult the try and trace the path inside the MS as I haven't the knowledge of certain symbols. But I'm thinking the relay clicks (which we know they are designed to do) closing a circuit to allow full current to operate that motor.
See the smaller plug on the MS is three wires that feed to the drivers window motor, the other large two wires on the motor plug feed through the switch and then go back to the lower left kick panel area in those three plugs. I believe the orange one. Well I have continuity on both the power wires for that motor, from the orange connector to the MS connector and from the MS connector to the motor connector. All three smaller gauge wires also have continuity from the connector at the MS going to the motor.
I did find some small cracks in two wires under the tapes up rubber boot where the flexing occurs in the door jam, I'll address those once the window issue is repaired because I tested continuity across those from the kick panel connectors to the MS connector and they are good.
![IMG_2455[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/img_2455-1-webp.1780852/ "IMG_2455[1].webp")
MS=Master Switch
FSM=Factory Service Manual
Last night on the way home the "AUTO" light was flashing... Which is a good thing as per the FSM it's trying to flash one of three different trouble codes. I hadn't noticed it flashing before as I have been driving the Taco mostly. Turns out two of the codes indicate wiring issues and one code (or the fact that the "AUTO" light isn't flashing) means the MS is faulty.
Today I get the door panel off, LOTS of electrical tape removed and also pulled the harness back through the body hole so it's all in front of me coming out of the speaker hole (speaker removed). Which was quite easy to do thankfully.
The MS won't blink now... Which the FSM says is a faulty MS.
Agh!!! I though the wiring was the culprit, so I read further into the FSM diagnostic chart and I see some continuity tests that would reveal if it was the MS. I am perplexed and really believe my harness is OK and it's the switch. It's very difficult the try and trace the path inside the MS as I haven't the knowledge of certain symbols. But I'm thinking the relay clicks (which we know they are designed to do) closing a circuit to allow full current to operate that motor.
See the smaller plug on the MS is three wires that feed to the drivers window motor, the other large two wires on the motor plug feed through the switch and then go back to the lower left kick panel area in those three plugs. I believe the orange one. Well I have continuity on both the power wires for that motor, from the orange connector to the MS connector and from the MS connector to the motor connector. All three smaller gauge wires also have continuity from the connector at the MS going to the motor.
I did find some small cracks in two wires under the tapes up rubber boot where the flexing occurs in the door jam, I'll address those once the window issue is repaired because I tested continuity across those from the kick panel connectors to the MS connector and they are good.
Here you go. I went though all of this exactly like you. It was the wire harness.
Thanks,
I appreciate the real time feedback too.
So I have tested every wire from the master window plugs, large and small, all wires from the large plug have continuity down and through the door at the plug that goose into the fuse box area,
All three wires from the small plug have continuity to the motor plug.
Quick question regarding operating the window manually, I see what seems to be a drive gear fitting or something, it won’t budge with a flat head. Could my motor or gears be messed up?
Oh I also finally got the blinking from the “AUTO” light, FSM says Limit Switch/Pulse sensor synchronize error.
So frustrated now!!!
I appreciate the real time feedback too.
So I have tested every wire from the master window plugs, large and small, all wires from the large plug have continuity down and through the door at the plug that goose into the fuse box area,
All three wires from the small plug have continuity to the motor plug.
Quick question regarding operating the window manually, I see what seems to be a drive gear fitting or something, it won’t budge with a flat head. Could my motor or gears be messed up?
Oh I also finally got the blinking from the “AUTO” light, FSM says Limit Switch/Pulse sensor synchronize error.
So frustrated now!!!
So stupid me decided until he removed a whole lot of electrical tape and got the harness completely out of the door before physically checking every single plug and continuity from the three plugs at the kick panel up to its respective color-coded plug and everything has continuity!
Still curious why I can’t manually roll the window down?
Still curious why I can’t manually roll the window down?
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