Driver's Side View Mirror HOUSING Loose (5 Viewers)

[-Spike-]

You can use hollow all thread tube, available at your local hardware store in the lighting/electrical section, to do the same thing a bit cleaner, and run the wires through the tube. That has held up for years and some abuse on my truck.

Here's a custom cut-away look at the finished repair...

 

[Joshau]

@-Spike- just finished this repair. Great call on using threaded tube and your photo was very helpful. I bought 3” & 3.5” lengths just in case. In retrospect 4” threaded tube would’ve been even nicer. Found it all in the lamp/electrical section of a specialty hardware store. $5 well spent. While I was in there did the wobbly mirror zip tie fix too.

 

[CmprNut]

Nice work with the custom cutaway! Very informational

 

[NLXTACY]

Option B: https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-floppy-mirror-fix/

 

[CmprNut]

That is a great looking fix. Just did the lamp all thread job and am back on the road, don't like the final fit and don't really trust the hardware. Will replace with your fix rather then shopping aftermarket or buying used and painting. Thanks!

 

[txoil]

thanks for the wonderful thread. I had a shaky DS mirror housing and a shaky mirror. PO had silicone glued the whole housing into standard position, a surprise I found only after fixing the shaky mirror problem.

Fixed shaky mirror using the Solve Function bracket.

Fixed the shaky mirror housing as described earlier.

1. Cut down post to just below the crimp in the post so the full internal diameter is available for bolt and wire.

2. 1/4” x 3” stainless, 2 x 1.25” washers and a 1/4” lock washer. 1/4” stainless nut.

3. Make sure you don’t lose and accurately align the 3 ball bearings in their respective holes.

4. Initially looked for threaded conduit per previous poster suggestion but Home Depot didn’t have any. 1/4” bolt left enough room to run the wire then out between a couple of coils. Putposefully pre-ran the wire thru an upper turn in the coil so that after the coil was compressed the wire was coming out just above the now-shorted post

5. Compressed spring with fingers a tiny amount so the nut would catch. Used socket ratchet on nut while holding Philips on the bottom end w screwdriver. Tightened till just under 1/2” of bear thread was showing above the nut. Tested the folding tightness periodically. Photo shows assembly before tightening nut.

Re- assembled everything else.

I did not need to drill a hole thru the post thru which to run the wire. Note: repeated folding and unfolding of mirrors will likely cause the wire casing to be stripped by the bolt thread. If I get around to it I will replace the bolt with a carriage bolt that is smooth until the tip. That said given this is not a full-size truck I rarely if ever fold my mirrors so believe Ihave some time before the wire casing is destroyed.

Hope this is helpful to the community. Previous posts were extremely helpful to me so thank you.

JC