ElHefe
SILVER Star
Will do. Thanks Dwight!
Drivers Door Wiring Harness.....Fixed!
- Thread starter Gottagetone
- Start date
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ElHefe
SILVER Star
And fixed. It wasn't noticeably loose but I disconnected and reconnected and voila.
Good deal....
Same issue here, but with my DS speaker. Started to crackle when door was open, then didn't work when door was open, but if I wiggled the wires (in the pass-through from door to body) I could get sound back sometimes. Now the whole front channel on the amp is dead.
Does that rubber sleeve just pop off from the door/body?
Does that rubber sleeve just pop off from the door/body?
Yes, you may need to use a putty knife to help, but it pulls away.
Just like a regular grommet with a grove...easy.
Off-topic a little...
Check the harness from the rear body to rear tailgate if you're having trouble with rear TG lights and or a VSC lighting up on the dash, combined with lamp issues.
Pulled that sucker out, speaker wires fully broken, and another 3 wires frayed/cracked/near separation. Used some butt splices to repair. Still no juice to the speaker, thinking the factory amp may be toast.
Replace the wire harness. I lost the master switch, spliced the wires, all was well, then it happend again a month or so later.
Replaced the wire harness with brand new, everything works great again.
It is in another thread. Let me look for it.
Hopefully the rest of our trucks wire harnesses arent deteriorating like this as well. Im an aircraft electrician and bad wiring harnesses are a pita. I know thruout the 90's there were changes in many companies wire insulation materials. For instance some 94 mercedes models and more recently, the porsche cayenne. And more recently, wiring harnesses are made with soy after 2012- small critters/rodents love soy.
Im hoping these issues are related only to certain harnasses/locations on the 100's
Im hoping these issues are related only to certain harnasses/locations on the 100's
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Also hoping that there is a way to obtain the end terminals. That way cheapos like myself can make their own wire harnesses and re-use the factory clip-connectors.
It is because the wire harness bends so often. If there is not enough slack in the harness the insulation is going to break as well as the wires, the other harness should not do this because they do not bend. Or do not bend as much.
Use your old harness and make a new one, then you'll have the ends. I still have not recycled my old one and have been thinking of having it rebuilt for a spare.
But then I think, well, the last one lasted 14yrs and I won't have my truck that long soooo....why bother.
Using the old harness to make a new one is what im mentioning. But the method im speaking of is different. Im talking about extracting the pin-termination from the plastic connector-removing old wire entirely, taking a new wire and installing a new pin-termination, and installing into the old clip. To do this all you need is wire, termination pins and a cheap insert/extract tool. Id do it one by one until ive made myself a completely new harness for super-cheap while utilizing my old clip/connector. Its something i do at work alot to fix kc10's and c17's.
Theres more than one way to skin a cat, and other methods could be easier and operable. But i am particular when it comes to wiring. To each their own.
The doors may be the only issue as of yet, but im worried that because of age that the insulation is becoming brittle and that there will be more and more people experiencing minor wiring issues as these trucks go on/get older. I dont want to go to change a under-hood sensor and find that when i unplug it, the wire insulator material cracks and exposes wire that can cause erronious signals/malfunctions. Heat and environment extremes deteriorate wire insulation. (Like engine bay conditions). Which is why im wondering if the wire insulation material elsewhere on the car may be splitting as well. And why im interested if yota sells termination-pins.
Im dorking out though and am diving too far from the threads original topic by thinking like an engineer. To each their own, other people skin their cats in many different ways. Maybe posting this could help someone in the future so why not...
Theres more than one way to skin a cat, and other methods could be easier and operable. But i am particular when it comes to wiring. To each their own.
The doors may be the only issue as of yet, but im worried that because of age that the insulation is becoming brittle and that there will be more and more people experiencing minor wiring issues as these trucks go on/get older. I dont want to go to change a under-hood sensor and find that when i unplug it, the wire insulator material cracks and exposes wire that can cause erronious signals/malfunctions. Heat and environment extremes deteriorate wire insulation. (Like engine bay conditions). Which is why im wondering if the wire insulation material elsewhere on the car may be splitting as well. And why im interested if yota sells termination-pins.
Im dorking out though and am diving too far from the threads original topic by thinking like an engineer. To each their own, other people skin their cats in many different ways. Maybe posting this could help someone in the future so why not...
My d.s speaker is intermittent as well. When i roll the window down it cuts the speaker off. Then i have to turn it up with the window up to get it to crackle on again. So i know i got a issue in there too. Hopefully when i address it i dont find more comprimised wiring like you and some others have. (The p.o had new speakers installed before he sold it to me, so i may be lucky and just have to reattach/reroute the installers mistakes)
I understand what you're saying about running all new wiring, I wasn't talking about just splicing.
Thanks everyone! My 98 LC had similar intermittent driver door window switches and I was able to chase down two broken wires - they had split at a similar spot and the insulation was brittle around the cracks. I used butt connectors - I normally try to only solder for any vehicular wiring, but solder can cause a stiff/brittle spot, so figured the butt connector could handle flexing better/was lazy. If needed in the future Ill solder in some longer lengths that span the flexing area. All the windows are working again! I took the opportunity of having the door panel off to add some cruiser crap sound deadening in the door, for a hopefully slightly quieter ride and more solid closing thunk. I noticed in a video I saw, that the LX door cards have a lot of sound insulation that the early cruiser cards did not. I don't find the ride noisy, but assume the Lexus is quieter.
A couple of weeks ago I posted up about an intermittent problem I was having. When the drivers door was open the window would not work, when closed it worked, first thought was..., I hate wiring problems.
I went to the stealership with a hope and prayer to ask if there was some sort of programming issue, not so lucky . While there, I decided to massage the wires in the rubber boot that goes from the body to the door and yep, the window quit working all together, luckily it was up.
Today I decided pull the door panel and see what was going on. Not seeing any noticeably easy problems, I ended up pulling the wires from the kick panel through the small holes in the body and door and this is what I found:
Turns out there is one wiring harness in the country and my cost was going to be almost $300. I ran a patch on the broken wire and taped up the cracked ones and everything is good to go for now.
i purchased my lx from a company rep who opened and closed drivers dozens of times a day ,i think that stressed the wiring to break.i repaired mine pulse added a small amount of lithium grease to the repaired section.also the door hold open was worn outA couple of weeks ago I posted up about an intermittent problem I was having. When the drivers door was open the window would not work, when closed it worked, first thought was...
I went to the stealership with a hope and prayer to ask if there was some sort of programming issue, not so lucky . While there, I decided to massage the wires in the rubber boot that goes from the body to the door and yep, the window quit working all together, luckily it was up.
Today I decided pull the door panel and see what was going on. Not seeing any noticeably easy problems, I ended up pulling the wires from the kick panel through the small holes in the body and door and this is what I found:
Turns out there is one wiring harness in the country and my cost was going to be almost $300. I ran a patch on the broken wire and taped up the cracked ones and everything is good to go for now.
