Drivers Door Wiring Harness.....Fixed!

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My drivers window on 2000 LC Is not working period. Here is a photo of what the wires loom like under the rubber grommet. Do the two cracked need to be stripped and spliced back together? When I push the window button I can hear it click but the window doesn’t move.

2A52C354-01BA-4F2E-B88E-93F4382E9C24.jpeg
 
This may help,

Scroll up first, but my fix is in my paragraph pasted here. The motor was “froze” for some reason.
If I ever encounter this issue again I’ll be tapping the area with a rubber mallet before removing anything and then removing my whole wiring harness. But at least it got inspected inch for inch and re-taped. Lol...


 
So went to try the drivers window today after getting it to work last night. About 58 degrees today and sunny. Rig is parked outside. Window won't work. I have had this issue with this window in the past where it would only work in cold months and not when it got warm out. Jiggled the wires from the cabin that are located in between the door, nothing. Am I SOL and just need to get a new window regulator at this point? I can't think of anything else and I have read the forums on here related to this issue. Last night I also sprayed the window channels with silicone.
 
So went to try the drivers window today after getting it to work last night. About 58 degrees today and sunny. Rig is parked outside. Window won't work. I have had this issue with this window in the past where it would only work in cold months and not when it got warm out. Jiggled the wires from the cabin that are located in between the door, nothing. Am I SOL and just need to get a new window regulator at this point? I can't think of anything else and I have read the forums on here related to this issue. Last night I also sprayed the window channels with silicone.

I’m pretty sure the easiest way to see if it’s the motor or not it’s a take the door panel off and I’m almost positive there’s a plug on the wiring harness that is only two wires that goes to the motor that turns the regulator, if you can apply voltage and nothing happens then the motor has failed or it’s just seized and you could tap it with a rubber mallet or something and that’s how I got mine working again.
 
I’m pretty sure the easiest way to see if it’s the motor or not it’s a take the door panel off and I’m almost positive there’s a plug on the wiring harness that is only two wires that goes to the motor that turns the regulator, if you can apply voltage and nothing happens then the motor has failed or it’s just seized and you could tap it with a rubber mallet or something and that’s how I got mine working again.
Yes a 12 V source, some alligator clips and pins was key for me fixing this today. My PS window hasn't been working for about 1.5 years. Then the rear DS stopped working, then the rear PS was starting to go. I tried a number of things that didn't fix it before I finally pulled the DS wiring harness through and found this:
IMG_3846.jpeg

Two completely severed wires which I am pretty sure are PS window (red w/ blue stripe) and DS rear window (red w/ yellow stripe). Spliced those with a short piece of new wire. Three other wires had the insulation cut but still had continuity from the plug going to the master switch to where the connection is inside the kick panel. I taped those, but I also am aware of this issue if it arrises again. Through this process and replacing DS door lock motor last year I can take door panels off in a few minutes.

Having a 12 V power allowed me to finally be much more systematic about tracking the issue. I started by putting power directly to the front PS window motor to make it go up and down. This is just two wires switching the polarity makes the window go up or down. I worked my way back through the PS door and kick panel to eliminate any issues to that point. Once I pulled the DS wiring harness into the door and pulled the boot back I was thrilled, because I actually had something obvious to fix.
 
+1, found a couple clean breaks in wire at the midpoint of the grommet. If you have this problem, recommend just pushing the grommet rubber back and checking for broken wires.
 
A couple of weeks ago I posted up about an intermittent problem I was having. When the drivers door was open the window would not work, when closed it worked, first thought was...:censor:, I hate wiring problems.

I went to the stealership with a hope and prayer to ask if there was some sort of programming issue, not so lucky . While there, I decided to massage the wires in the rubber boot that goes from the body to the door and yep, the window quit working all together, luckily it was up.

Today I decided pull the door panel and see what was going on. Not seeing any noticeably easy problems, I ended up pulling the wires from the kick panel through the small holes in the body and door and this is what I found:
IMG_0204.jpg


Turns out there is one wiring harness in the country and my cost was going to be almost $300. I ran a patch on the broken wire and taped up the cracked ones and everything is good to go for now. :)


:beer:
Have a 2006 GX with similar issue. Passenger window stopped working. Visible wiring, switches and motor ok. Suspect damaged wires in transition from door to body. Just purchased used harness. Hoping for a fix and good service long term.

Question. Door panel has been removed. Can I access/remove the harness by also removing kick panel? Thanks.
 

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