Drivers cv axle is clicking… Cardone or cvjreman for replacements?
- Thread starter txaggie76
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BullElk
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I think I have used a cardone before. I have also used a couple Oreilly brand Masterpro I believe. Either way I have had zero issues with both brands over many years thousands of miles.
Most will say to install new OEM axels, and not the rebuilt ones. I read that some people had luck with the Napa brand, but those are ultimately made by another company like Cardone. I think they used to be made by Cardone but that a new manufacturer makes them for Napa now.
x2 on most people suggesting OEM (including me!). That said, I can share you my experience FWIW. I have a 4th gen 4Runner (and and LC, just haven't done the CVs yet) that had one of the boots go at ~130k miles. I really wanted to go OEM, but they were ~$500-$600. One thing that caused me to rethink was that I called my local Toyota dealership and their service department actually installs aftermarket CVs due to the cost of OEM! I'm not even joking. After doing a bunch of research and talking on one of the 4R forums I decided to do a NAPA rebuild, which I think was cardone (might be wrong). Honestly my thinking was that I would put that in figuring that it would only last a year or two. I kept my OEM CV instead of returning it for the core refund so I can re-boot it if/when it goes again. That said, it has been at least 6 years and that NAPA axle is still going strong, so I've been pleasantly surprised. It's a mixed bag, though, some people say they're garbage and some say don't waste your money on OEM.
I do worry a bit about how an aftermarket would hold up on the bigger, heavier LC. But that is based on ZERO real facts and data. In the reading I've done around here some folks have suggested that the weak link in the front drive train is the diff anyway.
Obviously your call, but my 2 cents (no actual cash value) is if you do swap out, I would advise keeping your OEM CV and rebuilding it for a spare. The core fee is peanuts compared to the cost of buying a new OEM CV axle. That's actually one thing I'm not very happy about with my LC, the PO had both CVs replaced at Les Schwab. It's nice that they were replaced, but I wish I still had the OEMs so I could reboot them.
Also, you may be thinking of this too, but if you're doing the work, you might consider other things do do when you have it all apart. It's a good time to replace seals on both ends of the axle and maybe service the bearings too for good measure.
I do worry a bit about how an aftermarket would hold up on the bigger, heavier LC. But that is based on ZERO real facts and data. In the reading I've done around here some folks have suggested that the weak link in the front drive train is the diff anyway.
Obviously your call, but my 2 cents (no actual cash value) is if you do swap out, I would advise keeping your OEM CV and rebuilding it for a spare. The core fee is peanuts compared to the cost of buying a new OEM CV axle. That's actually one thing I'm not very happy about with my LC, the PO had both CVs replaced at Les Schwab. It's nice that they were replaced, but I wish I still had the OEMs so I could reboot them.
Also, you may be thinking of this too, but if you're doing the work, you might consider other things do do when you have it all apart. It's a good time to replace seals on both ends of the axle and maybe service the bearings too for good measure.
I installed (2) of the new cardone HD ones last month in a 1998.
I try to run OEM stuff in my truck, but I’ve always had good luck with Napa brand, Cardone, remy etc. sometimes the Toyota reman stuff gets into my price range, for example I bought a steering rack for $330 that was a toyota reman, seemed worth some money as I did not want to do that job twice.
Update: $461 per side from Toyota dealer, as of today. Yikes.
66-5185HD
They are beefy and the build quality was good. They were new so no core charge. Paid $93 shipped for one (Amazon) and $78 shipped for the other. (Car id)I try to run OEM stuff in my truck, but I’ve always had good luck with Napa brand, Cardone, remy etc. sometimes the Toyota reman stuff gets into my price range, for example I bought a steering rack for $330 that was a toyota reman, seemed worth some money as I did not want to do that job twice.
Update: $461 per side from Toyota dealer, as of today. Yikes.
- Thread starter
- #8
My fear with after market is the vibration issue. I would rather pay for the Toyota axle if it doesn’t give me vibes at highway speed.
Zero vibes on my 4Runner or LC at 70+ mph... that said you're definitely not going to go wrong with OEM if the cost is not an issue for you. It spoke volumes to me that the dealership would use an aftermarket product, though. I never would have expected that.
I also meant to ask, do you have a damaged boot or do you have grease all around? The (albeit limited number) 100-series I've been under have all been throwing a ton of grease out where the boot seals against the axle shaft. Just wondering if there are other signs that might point to the CV. The boots seem like the weak link, so if yours are good and no grease leaks it does make me wonder if the CV is the problem. Even with aftermarket IMHO it's a PITA job even if it's not terribly difficult.
My other 4R axle started doing the same thing about the time I replaced the one side I mentioned. I put a $2 hose clamp around the base of the inboard boot to see if it would help, assuming I would be replacing it a few weeks later. It has not leaked a drop in the 6 years since with no noise. I realize in your case you have some noises, but I just thought I'd mention it for the sake of others that may read this in the future. It's not a cure-all, but if you can get a few more years out of the OEM for $2 that's not a bad investment in my book.
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- Thread starter
- #10
Looks like there are aftermarket cv’s on my truck currently. No leaks but clicking and slight binding on the driver side cv (and crazy vibes at 60 mph plus).
I just bought new OEM axles for my '04 4Runner w/115k miles, torn boot. I did pay probably close to $700 for the pair.
There's no way I could justify replacing an OEM axle with aftermarket, especially after much of what I read about 3rd party on the forums.
Especially if I were to replace on our LX. It's what, and extra $500, for a part that should last another 15 yrs and 100k+ miles?
There's no way I could justify replacing an OEM axle with aftermarket, especially after much of what I read about 3rd party on the forums.
Especially if I were to replace on our LX. It's what, and extra $500, for a part that should last another 15 yrs and 100k+ miles?
I'm running a NAPA on one side and a Cardone from Rock Auto on the other. Both are remans and are identical. I accidentally tore the boots putting on my lift and both were excahanged with no questions asked. NAPA stores are everywhere and the axle swap is easy so it's a logical route for an older rig. I also ran Cardone axles on my old Subaru and had zero issues over 100k of driving. Not even a torn boot.
I replaced mine with Cardone HD from rock auto. So far impressed with the quality and figment after 5k miles.
I put those on and drove 600+ highway miles immediately, no weird vibes, sounds, or smells. . .
Glad it worked out well for you. OEMs certainly aren't going to do you wrong. Did it resolve the clicking you originally noted?
- Thread starter
- #19
All gone. All problems of vibes and clicking gone.
There are plenty of ppl reporting their OEM axles having their boots ripped within a year. I am one of them, it took exactly 11 months (and abt 10k miles) for my super expensive, bought direct from dealership OEN axles to start spitting out grease.
On the other hand there are quite a few members reporting good success with Cardone HD, GSP and ORielly branded remans. Choose your poison wisely.
On the other hand there are quite a few members reporting good success with Cardone HD, GSP and ORielly branded remans. Choose your poison wisely.
