Driver side Exhaust Manifold Removal and Replacement with pictures (1 Viewer)

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Odessa/Midland TX
Driverside (left side) Exhaust Manifold Removal

Demonstration purposes only:

Parts needed: 17105-50121 – Exhaust Manifold Left; 17173-50021- Manifold gasket left; 90080-17187 nut (needs 8); 90080-12007 – Stud (needs 3 manifold to catalytic converter); 90080-12008 stud (needs 8 head to manifold).

Place front wheel straight.

Remove front left tire (secure front end with at least 2 jack stands: SAFETY is PRIORITY)

Remove engine bay splash shields (both small and big shields), engine and transmission skid plates

Loosen and remove three 14 mm manifold to cat flange nuts (use 6 sided box socket)

Loosen and remove two nuts and bolts (14 mm) located at the end of CAT, pre and post O2 sensors (12 mm)

Remove the catalytic converter

Loosen and remove TWO 12 mm bolts on steering shaft located at the top: right below the brake master pump (no need to remove the shaft at the bottom U-joint): Push the shaft adapter coupling up and no need to index the coupling as the coupling ONLY goes into the splines in one way.

Loosen and remove four 10 mm heat shield bolts

Remove the 12 mm bolt holding the engine oil dip stick tube (no need to remove the tube out of the engine)

Loosen and remove eight 14 mm nuts on manifold: HINT: use swivel box adapter (see images): Push heat shield down to access top nuts and push heat shield up to access four bottom nuts: NOTE: Use six sided impact grade 14 mm box socket and make sure the box socket is FULLY on the bolt- Avoid rounding the nut!

All 8 studs stayed on the head in my case.

I DID NOT LIFT THE ENGINE as suggested by other threads.

Turn the manifold to have four ports to face the hood (Manifold-CAT flange now faces transmission): Pull the manifold out

Clean the surface of the head

Installation

While keeping WHITE paint mark on the exhaust gasket on top right towards the firewall and shiny surface of the gasket towards the head, install the gasket.

Manifold and heat shield (don’t attach) must be place together into the engine bay.

While moving the heat shield up or down, attach all 8 nuts to studs by HAND.

Tighten the manifold nuts uniformly (like tightening the head gasket bots), finally, tighten the manifold nuts to 32 foot-pounds

Mount the dip stick bolt

Slide the steering shaft coupler back on to the bottom shaft (NOTE: there is only one way it will go on to the bottom shaft). Tighten two 12 mm bolts on the coupler

Swivel joint
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Steering coupler where two 12 mm bolts located: must take bolts out to slide it up (I took this picture after removing the exhaust, but I had coupler removed at the very beginning)
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Rotated picture: steering shaft to a side
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Top nut on cylinder-1
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Top nut of next cylinder
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Bottom up view
Removal of bottom nut: Extension is resting on Driver side CV
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Removal of another bottom nut
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Another bottom nut removal
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Manifold and shield is now ready to come out:
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Yey!!
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Continued...

Crack on the manifold cylinder-1
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Installation: IMPORTANT: Place the white paint mark to top right side (I am pointing at it)
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New manifold going in!!
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New 14 mm nuts mounted on all 8 studs: tighten all 8 nuts uniformly and finally torque to 32 Ft-lb
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Great write up this will help alot , im about to tackle this job or die trying!
 
I simply prefer factory parts
 
I have a set of headers this is where the real performance and economy gains are made as the factory L bend is so restrictive . All that said the O/P did a great write up that will hel me out heaps
 
This is great help, however, you should try to do this on a truck from the rust belt, yours is way too clean :)
 

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