I think you need some biGGer lights on that rig!!
dreaming again
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Red Herring said:
Wow I have never heard that before
Ok, so they looks smaller on the website ROFLMAOCheers,
Michael
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #23
bringing this thread back to life...
so now am thinking again.
i have a LJ71 for a donor body.
i have a BJ74 for a donor body and ]
i have a 2000 HZJ79 so...
do i take the LJ71 body and the rear of the cab of the 79 and make an extended cab 79 with a short tray back or
do i take 22" out of the frame of the 79 and mount the 74 body on ro
do i cage the bugger and just beat it in the bush?
the easiest is the last option.
the hardest is the first one
the one that makes the most sense(to me) is the 74 body...
if you had these options in front of you which would you do?
cheers
so now am thinking again.
i have a LJ71 for a donor body.
i have a BJ74 for a donor body and ]
i have a 2000 HZJ79 so...
do i take the LJ71 body and the rear of the cab of the 79 and make an extended cab 79 with a short tray back or
do i take 22" out of the frame of the 79 and mount the 74 body on ro
do i cage the bugger and just beat it in the bush?
the easiest is the last option.
the hardest is the first one
the one that makes the most sense(to me) is the 74 body...
if you had these options in front of you which would you do?
cheers
Wayne,
I was thinking about this while at Moab, We have mini's as a "short bus" or "crawler" like Brett has, we have stretched 40's runted into "crawlers" link proffit has, we have an 80 series turned into a "short Bus" like Christo did. We need a kick as rock crawling 7x series inspired DIESEL Crawler. I think you need to take the 79 series and drop the 74 on it or just cage it and atleast but a propane injected 1hz in it, maybe some mog axles if those are easier than 2.5 ton troop carrier axles. use the proffit setup for springs they have flipped over 60 series springs or half cut leafs in back and coil overs up front. come on what do you say if you are going to do moab lets take the diesel to the correct level maybe even go with Cummins 6B diesel or something. Oh wait I have got a much better idea, get a Hyndo or whatever that heavy equipment company that usese Toyota stuff and ge the diesel motor and drive train out of that. Now we are talking about an all Toyota Rock crawler. I say that is what you should do...I double dog dare you ;p
Come on everyone what do you think do we want crusherrule to build a real crusher or what!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now that is a dream worth following
I was thinking about this while at Moab, We have mini's as a "short bus" or "crawler" like Brett has, we have stretched 40's runted into "crawlers" link proffit has, we have an 80 series turned into a "short Bus" like Christo did. We need a kick as rock crawling 7x series inspired DIESEL Crawler. I think you need to take the 79 series and drop the 74 on it or just cage it and atleast but a propane injected 1hz in it, maybe some mog axles if those are easier than 2.5 ton troop carrier axles. use the proffit setup for springs they have flipped over 60 series springs or half cut leafs in back and coil overs up front. come on what do you say if you are going to do moab lets take the diesel to the correct level maybe even go with Cummins 6B diesel or something. Oh wait I have got a much better idea, get a Hyndo or whatever that heavy equipment company that usese Toyota stuff and ge the diesel motor and drive train out of that. Now we are talking about an all Toyota Rock crawler. I say that is what you should do...I double dog dare you ;p
Come on everyone what do you think do we want crusherrule to build a real crusher or what!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now that is a dream worth following
crushers
post ho
- Thread starter
- #25
the 2000 79 is coil front and longer factory leafs out back, 1HZ and a H151? tranny and 4.3 gears so i was thinking that setup should perform pretty good right out of the box, add a turbo and an electric locker fornt and rear and i should be ready to go.
modify the front to something along the lines of what Christo is doing with the 80s. a block lift for th erear but have the block slanted in the cut to also act as a slider instead of a rock catcher and longer shackles.. (or swap out hte front center to a 4.9 from the 71 and swap the entire rear end in with the coils for better cleaence and (hopefully) better articulation...)
cheers
modify the front to something along the lines of what Christo is doing with the 80s. a block lift for th erear but have the block slanted in the cut to also act as a slider instead of a rock catcher and longer shackles.. (or swap out hte front center to a 4.9 from the 71 and swap the entire rear end in with the coils for better cleaence and (hopefully) better articulation...)
cheers
Hauling thread hi-jack...
Since this thread is about hauling, this isn't too far off topic.
The 'Correct' way to tied down a haulied rig is to attach to the frame of the towed vehicle, and compress the suspension. You do NOT want the towed vehicle's suspension to be active on the trialer. i.e., you do NOT want the truck bouncing around on the trailer, while the trailer is bouncing around on it's own suspension. You want the towed vehcile to be 'one' with the trailer/deck/etc.
The one thing that Michael could get busted for (per his picture) is that his tie downs are not crossed. At least according to Transport Canada, loads must be tied down from from oppoosite corners, and use a seperate straps/chains for each corner. This maximizes the lateral stability of load on the trailer. The 'angle' of Michael's straps are sufficient to hold the truck against the trailer (which gravity is doing anyway), but is marginal for preventing the truck from sliding side to side on the trailer.
Since building and hauling TippyR, I've invested many hundreds into differenct devices for strapping down vehicles. The fastest and sturdiest is 3/8 grade 70 chain with load binders and a snipe to get the last of the binders on nice and tight. While I tie down to Tippy's axles, I also deflate the air bags such that Tippy's suspension is inactive. For the long trip to the con, I'll also put a single strap on the front and back bumpers to ensure no possible suspension movement.
Peter Straub
Diesel Dude said:
Since this thread is about hauling, this isn't too far off topic.
The 'Correct' way to tied down a haulied rig is to attach to the frame of the towed vehicle, and compress the suspension. You do NOT want the towed vehicle's suspension to be active on the trialer. i.e., you do NOT want the truck bouncing around on the trailer, while the trailer is bouncing around on it's own suspension. You want the towed vehcile to be 'one' with the trailer/deck/etc.
The one thing that Michael could get busted for (per his picture) is that his tie downs are not crossed. At least according to Transport Canada, loads must be tied down from from oppoosite corners, and use a seperate straps/chains for each corner. This maximizes the lateral stability of load on the trailer. The 'angle' of Michael's straps are sufficient to hold the truck against the trailer (which gravity is doing anyway), but is marginal for preventing the truck from sliding side to side on the trailer.
Since building and hauling TippyR, I've invested many hundreds into differenct devices for strapping down vehicles. The fastest and sturdiest is 3/8 grade 70 chain with load binders and a snipe to get the last of the binders on nice and tight. While I tie down to Tippy's axles, I also deflate the air bags such that Tippy's suspension is inactive. For the long trip to the con, I'll also put a single strap on the front and back bumpers to ensure no possible suspension movement.
Peter Straub
Behemoth60 said:
Peter,
All the tie down stuff I have read and everyone I have talked to says not to cross the straps, while is does help on side to side, if you ever tip the trailer on its side the truck will finish tipping over the trailer all the way because if they are cross there is nothing to preven the truck from tipping over sideways.
Just some observations on my trip to Moab. I had my rig tied down via the frame and my friend had his tied down via the axles. I found for the first time ever that my straps came lose during the trip and I had to check them everytime I stops and retighten them. That had never happened to me before. Granted the truck I was towing had a very stiff suspension, I also had a strap from the front of the trailer over the axles and to the back of the trailer as a safety measure. Conversly my friend did not have his straps come lose at all and. We were carovaning to Moab so we were all on the same road. I am not sure what this means but interesting information.
Cheers,
Michael
semlin
curmudgeon
damn moose I scrolled all the way down here to say the same thing.
By the way was that you in the KMS tools parking lot in coquitlam last saturdfay? not too many convertible white 70 series out there and if so, how did you get a left hand drive?
By the way was that you in the KMS tools parking lot in coquitlam last saturdfay? not too many convertible white 70 series out there and if so, how did you get a left hand drive?
HZJ60 Guy
Tank Buster
Here's what you need for that towing (read carrying) job of yours.
A real truck.
With all due respect to Toyota, nothing compares to a Unimog! And it's a diesel too!!!
the REAL truck for the job!!!
A real truck.
With all due respect to Toyota, nothing compares to a Unimog! And it's a diesel too!!!
the REAL truck for the job!!!
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Towing?!?!?!
Why would you Tow with that!!! That's trail ready!
Why would you Tow with that!!! That's trail ready!
