Dreaded Catalytic converter fault codes
- Thread starter pcut
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- Thread starter
- #22
As a confessed Luddite, I admit I have no idea what a "torque app with the bluetooth obd2 adapter" is. Can you enlighten me without laughing too hard?
I bought this to plug into the obd2: https://www.amazon.com/IDEAPRO-Scanner-Bluetooth-Wireless-Diagnostic/dp/B00SM8R04Q
then installed Torque Plus on my android phone: Torque Pro (OBD 2 & Car) - Android Apps on Google Play
It gives many options to view different parameters, view/clear fault codes.
What tool did you get?
I've been this route before and I stated it here before: No need to replace cats at all... replace your O2 sensors with Denso original replacements and things will come back to normal. You didn't mention what brand O2 sensors you got, but I will bet you they were NOT Denso.
Good luck !!
Measure the temp? The temp of what? The cats?
You need to check the voltage of the O2's in real time, their voltage, once theyre warmed up, should fluctuate from 0.0v to 1.0 volts, they do not need to read the same at the same time, just voltage jumping around on each O2.
If a O2 is slow to change volts or doesnt change volts at all then it is either dieing or dead.
If the voltage of the rear O2's jumps around like its supposed to and youre getting bad cat codes then the cats are bad.
You'll then either need to replace them, remove them, or leave them alone.
Assuming the cats are bad and you remove or leave them in, then you install the non foulers into the rear O2 bungs and then reinstall the rear O2's.
The job is then done until the O2's die and throw a code.
You need to check the voltage of the O2's in real time, their voltage, once theyre warmed up, should fluctuate from 0.0v to 1.0 volts, they do not need to read the same at the same time, just voltage jumping around on each O2.
If a O2 is slow to change volts or doesnt change volts at all then it is either dieing or dead.
If the voltage of the rear O2's jumps around like its supposed to and youre getting bad cat codes then the cats are bad.
You'll then either need to replace them, remove them, or leave them alone.
Assuming the cats are bad and you remove or leave them in, then you install the non foulers into the rear O2 bungs and then reinstall the rear O2's.
The job is then done until the O2's die and throw a code.
I wonder if there was someone that could help me out with a similar problem. I had EMS aftermarket midpipes/exhaust installed some time ago and now have catalytic converter codes tripped every once in a while. I see it more when it is cold or the engine is pressed hard. The truck is a 2004 with 108,000 miles that drives great. The shop says the thermostat tests fine. Does that rule out the thermostat? They think it is the cats. I hope it is not. Is there anyone with EMS aftermarket exhaust that has problems with the check engine light? Any advice would be appreciated.
The thermostat is $15, replace it.
Other than that, I cant help.
Other than that, I cant help.
- Thread starter
- #29
OK- here's the latest on my side. After screwing around trying to get and OBDII reader for a temp reading, I pulled out my old tire temp gun from my old shifter cart racing days and took the temp on the hoses- 180 plus for 10 minutes of running after driving back up Parley's Cyn from SLC to Park City, so no problem with the thermostat. Now I'll try plugs. I understand the non-fouler option, but would like to fix the problem, not circumvent it- at least for now. Will report when the new plugs are in.
