Drawer and Tailgate Toolbox Build

[gee314]

A while back I decided to build some drawers. I spent some time looking at other builds and commercially available systems.
I wanted:
1) Easier access to food and equipment while camping
2) Easier access and packing for things closest to the seats
3) The ability to fold down the seats to carry long items or sleep
4) A decent amount of water storage (I ended up with more than originally planned, but without having a custom tank built, my options were limited)
5) Easier access and storage for tools
6) Good value

I drew up some plans, and bought some cabinet plywood. Cabinet ply won't split apart as quickly as regular plywood, and looks nice. My other options was to build the entire thing out of aluminum, but that would require a lot of my brother's time as I can't weld, and would be very expensive.

I built this base relatively quickly, and then added drawer slides.

I hadn't bought locking drawer slides because they were more expensive, but I wanted to lock my drawers in and out. I used some cheap pop pins, and a thin strip of aluminum to make a my drawers lock. The pop pin goes through the wall of the base and clicks into a hole in the drawer when it is closed and pops out behind the drawer when it is fully extended to lock it open. I used metal "L" brackets to support the wings on the base.
The pop pin:

I used hooks and turnbuckles to attach the drawer to the tie downs in the truck. I reinforced the back the hook where it goes through the wood with a little square of aluminum.

The drawer with aluminum strip and hole drilled, so the drawer remains closed:

 

[gee314]

I wanted to be able to store silverware and small utensils in one drawer and still access other things underneath the silverware, so I build a little silverware drawer. In retrospect, I could have done this differently by making the drawer a little box that I could easily lift in and out. For now I have a separate drawer within a drawer. To make this slide out, I had to make the face of the drawer fold down. I used a couple small drawer knobs, and some hinges. I had also decided it would be cool to fit a table between one of the drawers and the upper platform, so I made one of the drawers a bit smaller.

The drawer latches so the face plate folds down:

Drawer in a drawer:

Slides out to access equipment underneath, and keeps the silverware easily accessible and in one place:

Then it was time to build the upper platform. I didn't want to lose too much space, and wanted it strong, so I went with aluminum for the platform. I also wanted to be able to easily pack without crawling into the truck with heavy boxes and whatnot, so I decided to make the platform slide out as well. I wouldn't be able to reach across the platform when standing on the driver's side, and the tire swing-out would get in the way if I tried to load the platform from the passenger side. So I needed to make to platforms and have them both slide out independently.

For some reason, I don't have pictures of the platform build in aluminum. My brother did the aluminum welding, and I did the grinding and drilling. I mounted the platforms to heavy duty locking drawer slides, and put everything in the truck. I had to do some adjustments, and modify the (second) table I got as the first didn't fit at all, and the second needed a few adjustments.

I carpeted the platform and drawers, and put in six light duty tie downs per platform side, so equipment can be kept in its place and each side can slide out without interfering with the other side. I also added some handles for the drawers.

The table slides in and out with the passenger side platform, and can be pulled out relatively easily.

 

[gee314]

The next step was figuring out the tank. I had found a tank that fit between the wheel wells very nicely, and designed the base of my drawer system to work with that. It fits between the back of the drawers and the seats, and underneath the sliding platforms. It holds 20 gallons. It came with no openings, and is relatively thin-walled. I put in three uni-seals, which are awesome and easy to install. Into these seals, I installed some PVC with metal threads to attach the other hardware. I needed one fill hole, one drain hole, and one air hose to release pressure, allow for proper water flow when gravity feeding, and for hooking the tank up to my compressor's air line to improve flow rate or operate in non-flat conditions.

I attached a drain cock so the tank can equalize to changes in pressure, and to gravity feed. I also put in a check valve to prevent water from flowing into the low-pressure regulator I use to add pressure to the tank. After many, many trips to the hardware store, I finally got a set up that did what I wanted, and fit in the narrow area between the tank and the wheel well.

The tank is not super easy to install. Seats need to be folded down, both platforms extended, and then it is tied down using straps on the third row seat mounts. It needs to be filled and emptied while in the car because it is too heavy to move around when filled. But once it is in, it works great!

The final piece of the project was getting tools, recovery equipment, and parts to an easy-to-access location. I looked around and found the tailgate conversion kits that are sold and built. Those looked pretty straightforward to make.

I pulled the carpet off, and decided where I wanted the opening, and then carefully cut a large hole in the tailgate after moving all of the wires out of the way.

We (my brother and I) used the cardboard template underneath the carpet to make a lid in the same size and shape of as the original. Then cut a hole to match the hole in the tailgate. I attached the door to the lid using rivets and hinges. My brother welded a few supports for the lid. I attached the lid by to the tailgate primarily using rivet nuts in the holes the carpet snapped into.

Rivet nut installed:

After I got everything drilled correctly and lined up, I installed two latches for the tailgate lid. I removed the lid again, and installed the original carpet onto the new aluminum cover and lid using 3M headliner glue. I used this glue for all of the carpeting. It is strong and doesn't smell once it dries.
Then I spent quite a few hours putting in sound deadening material. This was tedious. After that I reattached the cover and lid, tied wires out of the way and it was time to load it up. It now has another bag of tools and various other pieces of equipment, and still room to spare.

 

[gee314]

I got to test it a few weeks ago on a week long trip to Utah for canyoneering in the San Rafael Swell and Escalante as well as a run across the Burr Trail and then from Natural Bridges through Bears Ears and Beef Basin and into Needles District of Canyonlands (one of my favorite places to explore).
Loaded and ready to go:

Camped in the Swell, the table worked great!:

My wife using the drawers:

Camped up a pleasant side road in Escalante:

Using the pressure from the air tank to push water up the slight incline to keep a decent flow rate. She's turning it off in the picture, it actually works really well :

 

[REZARF]

Ethan?

 

[gee314]

Yes. Hi Drew.

 

[REZARF]

Welcome to 'Mud man!

Cruiser is looking great. I recognized the dimpled holes as Isaac's preferred strengthening technique!

Looking forward to seeing more of your build and adventures!

 

[slimbuddha]

Very nice build. Which table is that, I like that size of a table.

 

[gee314]

Welcome to 'Mud man!

Cruiser is looking great. I recognized the dimpled holes as Isaac's preferred strengthening technique!

Looking forward to seeing more of your build and adventures!

Thanks Drew. I've checked out your build threads. I don't have as much of a master plan, but I do have a lot of little projects lined up...

 

[gee314]

Very nice build. Which table is that, I like that size of a table.

Thanks. The table is the "Bi Fold Dark Grey Plastic Folding Table" from Foldingchairs4less.com About $30.
It is probably not as ideal as a nice kitchen table from an outdoor shop, but it works pretty well.