Door Panel Reassembly Advice (1 Viewer)

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gordista

Me and the Clan in 'Yota Landcruisers out there
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let my questions begin.
While waiting for parts and such for exterior/body/bla bla work to arrive - undertook 7 hour interior detail - beyond detail really and very satisfying.
Today I lifted up carpet in cargo area and pulled out some frightening carpet type pad underneath / junked it really should have burned it.
Shop vacd, scrubbed, washed, sheep doped “floor”, rust spots and assessed. Bla bla bla
I guess I was overly zealous cause apparently while cleaning front I think I knocked the door too hard cause now the driver side speaker doesn’t work.
Of course the drivers side.
And I had intentions updating stereo (think last update was 2010) and of course inspecting window regulators (manual crank and i would rather not convert to power) as they’re gritty and stiff.
Windows up and down can live without for time being it’s 40 out today- but tunes no way!
But now front doors at least are being fast tracked.

Got panels off - yada yada - and for any DIYERS I found a paint key was a genius tool to pull out window crank pin without it shooting across garage.

Soooo to the questions-
After inspecting window and replacing speaker
I’d love any tips recommendations thoughts about reinstalling panel and backing.
  • sound deafening mats (brands superior or not)
  • Any type of sound / heat Installation?
  • thoughts on Butyl Adhesive Sealant or tape? Is there an alternative? Seems like environmental moisture & heat could eventually make for a gooey mess…Like the one I found! Leads to next question-
  • should old butyl adhesive should be removed?
  • have moisture barrier methods changed from glorified shower curtain since she was born in 1988? And I’m not too good for plastic if that’s that.

  • I haven’t removed plastic yet as I suppose I should attempt to get it as a whole piece to make template for replacement - what’s best method for getting it off?

  • And for curiosities sake what is the odd little pocket thing in bottom of door with specific moisture barrier sealed cut in? Photos included

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The inside of the door gets moisture from rain. Anything you put inside the door (insulation or whatever) is going to trap the water and accelerate rust.
It’s my belief that nothing extra should be applied to the inside of the doors. Just make sure the drain holes on the bottom are clear.

That plastic sheet on the door just peels off. Or maybe can be cut off with a razor. Adhesive is still gooey and pliable after all these decades. Replacement plastic is easy to find at a hardware store. Look for painters sheet plastic.
 
The inside of the door gets moisture from rain. Anything you put inside the door (insulation or whatever) is going to trap the water and accelerate rust.
It’s my belief that nothing extra should be applied to the inside of the doors. Just make sure the drain holes on the bottom are clear.

That plastic sheet on the door just peels off. Or maybe can be cut off with a razor. Adhesive is still gooey and pliable after all these decades. Replacement plastic is easy to find at a hardware store. Look for painters sheet plastic.
thank you!! Interior painter here so no shortage of various gauge plastic sheeting here!
Au natural- I dig it- I’m pretty surprised to see minimal rot inside door- now the speaker which had been working I assumed was after market as wiring for subs and amp is still in car and well it worked - but holy hell I think it is original! Haven’t looked at it closely as I found a prehistoric dead bug on plastic barrier and lost my ****
Is there a market for original speakers ??

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go to the DNP carpet thread for carpet advice. I put my tips on there when I did mine. Like I dont like the way the carpet dips so low as it approaches the door so I doubled up the wire channels in that area to give it a smoother look. I also used deadener and a mat under the front carpet for sound and heat. Bought a very large pair of scissors from Amazon and a heated blade to cut and seal the carpet at the same time for holes and edges. That thread has a lot of valuable tips. Always cut larger than you need and come in slowly as you smooth it out so you dont cut too much. Take your time. For doors 3M still sells the butyl tape in ribbons at the auto part or paint supply store. You will have a life time supply if you buy a box.
 
go to the DNP carpet thread for carpet advice. I put my tips on there when I did mine. Like I dont like the way the carpet dips so low as it approaches the door so I doubled up the wire channels in that area to give it a smoother look. I also used deadener and a mat under the front carpet for sound and heat. Bought a very large pair of scissors from Amazon and a heated blade to cut and seal the carpet at the same time for holes and edges. That thread has a lot of valuable tips. Always cut larger than you need and come in slowly as you smooth it out so you dont cut too much. Take your time. For doors 3M still sells the butyl tape in ribbons at the auto part or paint supply store. You will have a life time supply if you buy a box.
Thank you! I’ll check out thread for sure too.
Also any recommendations for a heated blade- I got one last year after my ole trusty electric bread knife I use for cutting foam crapped out in middle when doing a large upholstery job.
Figured okay time to upgrade to heated blade…awful!!! it lives high on shelf in shop, left in for dead and is still the butt off jokes in the house. Ended up racing to ocean state grabbed new electric bread knife.
So happily excepting recommendations for heated knife cause the concept is genius.
 
I just got what looked like a plug in exacto knife off of amazon. You may want to order a few extra blades. Have not really used mine since but it did a great job at cutting the carpet and sealing off the fibers. I got that tip off of the DNP thread..my tips are on pg 19 and 20 with pics, but lots of great stuff throughout....definitely read it.

 
I just got what looked like a plug in exacto knife off of amazon. You may want to order a few extra blades. Have not really used mine since but it did a great job at cutting the carpet and sealing off the fibers. I got that tip off of the DNP thread..my tips are on pg 19 and 20 with pics, but lots of great stuff throughout....definitely read it.

Looks amazing! And thanks for link- I’m obsessed
Thread- soooo satisfying.
 
@gordista , re: your query for the vapor barrier plastic, i'd would suggest 6mil construction vapor barrier poly. up here we call it super 6. i find it very tuff n long lasting. the painters drop sheet poly tends to deteriorate much faster has been my finding.
 
Great tip! I’ll check it out.

Thank you thank you!
 
Seems like I recall someone making new ones out of shower curtain liners which is a good way to repurpose something easy to find.
 

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