Door Actuator Lock
- Thread starter triplenet
- Start date
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MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
I had my rear hatch actuator fail at 60k miles. Easy fix, but cost $$ to replace.
Sorry to resurrect an older thread, but I am experience some quirkiness with the passenger's side door lock, and am thinking that it might need replacement. @triplenet, did you replace the parts yourself, or have the dealer do it? Also, I was trying to figure out how difficult it is to remove the interior door panel? Thanks for any help.
An old thread, I know, but has anyone had experience (good or bad) with non-OEM door lock actuators? JC Whitney, for example, sells one for $59 which they claim fits. This looks a bit more attractive than the $359 the local dealer wants...
Just in case you aren’t familiar with swapping the motors........
No experience with JC Whitney, however, I’ve changed out the actuator motors in my FJ cruiser and 100 at a cost of about 5 dollars per door. I’m assuming the 200 has a similar setup, though I havnt searched for a thread in this 200 forum. The problem is usually a motor going out in the actuator.
Edit...check out this thread
Failed Door Lock Actuator R&R
Looks like it has been documented.
No experience with JC Whitney, however, I’ve changed out the actuator motors in my FJ cruiser and 100 at a cost of about 5 dollars per door. I’m assuming the 200 has a similar setup, though I havnt searched for a thread in this 200 forum. The problem is usually a motor going out in the actuator.
Edit...check out this thread
Failed Door Lock Actuator R&R
Looks like it has been documented.
Update: I ended up replacing my failed door lock actuator with an OEM one, purchased from toyotapartsdeal.com for $263 including shipping. If another one dies, I'll try the $5 replace-the-motor method.
Was a bit nerve-wracking to pry on plastic parts with a screwdriver, then yank on the door panel; but in the end it all worked out fine and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. If another one fails. Which it better not.
-Phrog
Was a bit nerve-wracking to pry on plastic parts with a screwdriver, then yank on the door panel; but in the end it all worked out fine and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. If another one fails. Which it better not.
-Phrog
@NC237 , Thanks for posting those diagrams. Really helpful when replacing my door actuator motors today. Shop quote of about $900 for both front doors and I paid about $30 for two motors and a set of panel puller tools. Cheers!
Also noticed that the 5th gen 4Runner folks seem to have the same issue and I'd like to share the link below to a good write-up on T4R.org:
Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!] - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
Further down in the thread there are some great pics of the teardown of the actuator module, which appears to be identical to ours. If it's not, it's close enough that the teardown steps are the same.
Also noticed that the 5th gen 4Runner folks seem to have the same issue and I'd like to share the link below to a good write-up on T4R.org:
Driver's Door Lock Actuator Motor Repair [step-by-step w/ pics!!] - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum
Further down in the thread there are some great pics of the teardown of the actuator module, which appears to be identical to ours. If it's not, it's close enough that the teardown steps are the same.
If the drivers door won’t lock manually from the inside does that mean it’s the actuator? Will lock and unlock fine with the remote. If I try to lock from inside using the lock button all doors lock except for the drivers ??
I replaced both my rear door lock actuator motors with these replacements from Amazon.
Be sure to remove all the screws in the door lock actuators then unclip all the outer clips without breaking them.
Once the actuators are open the motors pop right out and then pop the new ones in their spot. No soldering needed.
Be sure to remove all the screws in the door lock actuators then unclip all the outer clips without breaking them.
Once the actuators are open the motors pop right out and then pop the new ones in their spot. No soldering needed.
@Crab Sack I’m trying to determine if it is my actuator that’s causing me problems.
