Done with knuckle,now brake problems

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 23, 2004
Threads
62
Messages
386
Location
deep south TX
Well got done with the knuckle rebuild yesterday. I feel a sense of accomplishment, but the job is not quite done. I'm having trouble bleeding the brakes. At first I just bled the front breaks since those where the one disconected. The pedal was very soft and the truck would barely stop in the drive way. Tried bleeding the rear. Cant get any fluid to come out the drivers side (US) rear wheel. My helper must of pumped the peddal 30 times and no fluid came out. I removed the bleeder valve because i thought maybe it was clogged and even like that no fluid came out the openning. Any suggestions.?

Gracias
 
Anyone.... Bueller?
 
You can hook a vacuum pump up to that rear bleeder and let it suck the fluid into the lines, i did that just to get it primed so to speak when i changed my flex hoses to SS.

When you say your helper pumped the pedal like 30 times, is that with the bleeder open? If it is every time he pumped it he just pulled more air into the system. You just pump it a couple times with the bleeder closed and then open it. Assuming you know that and i just treated you like a retard, i had good luck with putting my finger over the end of the bleeder and having my helper make nice, slow pumps on the pedal, my finger worked like a check valve of sorts, helps to get it goin.

Matt
 
Here's how I ALWAYS bleed my brakes. First, have your helper pump three times and hold, then open the bleeder to let fluid/air out until the pressure releases, then close it again quickly so no air gets sucked back in. Do this about six times for each brake. This helps make double sure that there's no air left somewher eupstream in the system. The proper order for bleeding is RL, RR, FR, FL, than the LSPV last. My pedal was always hard as a rock back when I bled my stock brakes with this method.
 
Ive been known to have tard moments, but who hasn't. Ill give it a go tommarow. Thanks for the replies. One last thing. Where is the LSPV. The Haynes manual I have says it is in the middle of the rear diff. Don't see it. All I see is a block thingie with several connections and that one is near the right side wheel. Don't see a bleeder valve on that though.

Gracias Agent and Spook!
 
hightide said:
Ive been known to have tard moments, but who hasn't. Ill give it a go tommarow. Thanks for the replies. One last thing. Where is the LSPV. The Haynes manual I have says it is in the middle of the rear diff. Don't see it. All I see is a block thingie with several connections and that one is near the right side wheel. Don't see a bleeder valve on that though.

Gracias Agent and Spook!

The LSPV is actually mounted on the crossmember just forward of the rear axle. It's easy to see because it's got a rod that connects to the rear axle (which may be what Haynes was referring to). The bleeder is on the left side of the LSPV.
 
OK, since I have fawked up brakes more than most, I want to add one point of clarification: you open the bleeder, the helper pushes down on the pedal, you close the bleeder, and the helper lifts off of the pedal. It's a sequence - open bleeder, shout "depress" close bleeder, shout "release". Teamwork. It's what kids are for...
 
lovetoski said:
OK, since I have fawked up brakes more than most, I want to add one point of clarification: you open the bleeder, the helper pushes down on the pedal, you close the bleeder, and the helper lifts off of the pedal. It's a sequence - open bleeder, shout "depress" close bleeder, shout "release". Teamwork. It's what kids are for...

actually, no.
the helper pumps the pedal 3 times, holds it down, then you open the bleeder. a stream of fluid/air will shoot out, and you close the bleeder then again.
then start in the beginning.
your mwthod will sort of work, but you will never build up the pressure high enough to force out those small bubbles.
j
 
bhk said:
I highly recommend using a Power Bleeder instead of a helper. I haven't used it on my cruiser yet, but it works great on my VWs.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html

It's an awesome tool to blled your brakes .. coz each time that you pump in your brake pedal, the brake piston indise of Brake master, travel more than usual do inside the cilinder ..

Sometimes you wornout the seals ( rubber ) with this method..
 
Labsnducks said:
Check this site ==> http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
Contains instructions to build your own pressure bleeder for about $25.

Damnit I still need to finish the writeup on mine. It works awesome, but I haven't been able to use it since I upgraded to the 1" MC due to the smaller opening in the reservoir.
 
Hey spook did I miss the 4H solenoid replacement write up or is it still in the works?
 
hightide said:
Hey spook did I miss the 4H solenoid replacement write up or is it still in the works?

I'm still workin it. If I don't sleep too late on Saturday I'll be able to get the last couple pics I need to finish it and then I'll send it to Woody to post in Tech.
 
hey Spook do you have a pic of your cruise you can post?
Did a search and cant find one.

Gracias?
 
hightide said:
hey Spook do you have a pic of your cruise you can post?
Did a search and cant find one.

Gracias?

Of the conversion, or just one of my truck in general? I've got a couple of my dash after the conversion that I posted here a while ago, but I haven't taken any of my truck since before I put in the Add-A-Leafs. One more thing I gotta do :doh:
 
Your truck in general. Im looking at doing the same "lift"combination on my cruiser. Already got shackle lift looking at maybe adding AAL in the summer. Im getting tires but dont know if 33 12.5 or 32 11.5. Dont want to lose capability by tires rubbing.
 
hightide said:
Your truck in general. Im looking at doing the same "lift"combination on my cruiser. Already got shackle lift looking at maybe adding AAL in the summer. Im getting tires but dont know if 33 12.5 or 32 11.5. Dont want to lose capability by tires rubbing.

I'll get a pic today if I can and post it. I'll be away tonight but if I can get the pic I'll have it posted by tomorrow. My suspension is completely stock, save for the Add-A-Leafs and removing the spring wraparound brackets from the rears (had to in order for the rear caliper pins to clear the spring).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom