Dome lights and Diodes. Or just lights that don't work.

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solomrus

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Oct 13, 2005
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Frame of reference: 1993 FZJ-80, basic trim package. Manual cloth seats, no moon roof, no roof rails, no lockers. Just the basics, please. Purchased the truck this summer, have been fixing little things here and there, getting my parts list together for the big fun stuff. No major issues with it, just this one little thing that is driving me a little nuts. The dome lights and the vanity lights do not function.

What have i done so far? I have found an EDM for reference, and spent several nights figuring out how to use it. Basic troubleshooting that i have done would be to clean up all the door switches with contact cleaner. I get all five doors to illuminate the door open light on the dash now. The two rear passenger ones were a little cruddy when i started. The cargo hatch was operational.

The dome fuse is good. Checked it several times. Replaced several times. The clock functions as it should. The radio memory functions as it should. The courtesy light around the ignition switch functions as it should.

I have replaced the dome light bulbs twice. Tested the originals from the truck and the subsequent replacements, and all appear to be good.

I have tested for power at the dome light sockets. I get .7v at them with the doors open. With the doors closed, i get ~12.6v. I have checked continuity for the pin switches to ground, and they are good. Continuity between the wire at the back of the switch to the bulb socket looks good too.

I have located the IE1 plug in the driver's side footwell, and with the door open i get .7v at the body side of the plug on the power wire (Pin 2, IE1), and i get the same voltage on the body side of the plug. I traced the wire from pin 2 on the IE1 plug back to the splice at E12, then back to the plug at EA1 and i have good continuity all the way back to the dome fuse. No issues were found with the wire. If i push the driver's side door switch in, i get ~12.6v on both sides of pin 2.

I have located the ID2 plug on the driver's side. If i disconnect ID2, i get 12.6v at pin 2 of IE1.

If i use my power probe to energize pin 2 on IE1, i get normal function of dome light, as well as the vanity lights in the sun shades.

I have no courtesy lights on the doors, nor do i have a rear cargo compartment light by the rear hatch.

What else do i know? I know i haven't located the diodes yet.

What do i suspect? At this point, i am beginning to suspect the D8 diode. Why? Because of the .7v.
I'm only an ok electrical diagnostician, and i think that i have exhausted what i know, and what i think i know at this point. The loss of voltage to the socket is what is puzzling me. I can't make sense of why completing the circuit would drop the voltage like that. It's probably something silly that will make me smack myself. There is something going on that i don't understand which is baffling me.

Thanks for any assistance. I can typically figure out what i need to know on mud by using the search function, which is why i don't have a very high post count. I had to phone a friend this time.
 
I can't make sense of why completing the circuit would drop the voltage like that.
This indicates a high resistance upstream. Do the same test (opening & closing the door) while measuring voltage on the "DOME" fuse.
 
this 240 is getting a little love right now.

I'll have a little time this pm to pull the 80 in and test across the dome fuse. will let you know what the results are.

--r

image.jpeg
 
battery v across terms is 12.71

12.71v with door closed, on both sides of the fuse.
12.67v with door open, on both sides of the fuse.

--r
 
Seems like the problem lies somewhere between the DOME fuse and the IE1 connector.

You can do the same voltage test at all points in between: EA1, E12, etc.
 
Or just run a jumper wire from the DOME fuse to IE1 :meh:
 
Definitely interested to see the answer here. I'm having the same issue and done roughly the same diagnosing. Still no working lights for me now. Not sure if it's relevant but the clock has occasionally just cut out. My in dash 12 volt/cig plug doesn't work and my radio gets horrible intermittent static.
 
Or just run a jumper wire from the DOME fuse to IE1 :meh:
HAH! i was about ready to pull the trigger on that the other day. i'll be ok doing that if i know what the problem is. that could be the best fix.

the splice to IE1 is direct. solid wire from EA1 to IE1. nothing in between. i have a spare body harness and i un-loomed everything between IE1 and the E12 splice to verify that my assumption was correct.

do any of those splices go someplace besides what is listed? Clock, radio memory, dash indicator, keyswitch light and timer, rear cargo light...

could it be something on the circuit that goes thru the ID2 connector? if i unplug ID2, i get my V back at IE1.

--r
 
could it be something on the circuit that goes thru the ID2 connector? if i unplug ID2, i get my V back at IE1.
There is a difference from your '93 and my '96 EWD, but I'm pretty sure that unplugging ID2 removes the door switch from the circuit.
 
do any of those splices go someplace besides what is listed? Clock, radio memory, dash indicator, keyswitch light and timer, rear cargo light...
Seatbelt warning relay and stereo amplifier.
 
seatbelt warning buzzer seems to be on a timer. it's functioning.

stereo amplifier, on the other hand, is an unknown. let me eyeball that. the speaker is done... excessive water damage there. i have the leaky belt moldings on both sides. haven't gotten around to testing the amp yet.

looking at the diagram for stereo now. L-Y wire at E12 splice to head unit for memory (there's an alpine head in my truck, there when i got it), one leg to power amp for stereo. can i assume the component in the p/s rear fender next to the speaker is my amp? or is this something else?

--r
 
can i assume the component in the p/s rear fender next to the speaker is my amp?
That's only the subwoofer amp, it's not powered by the DOME circuit.

The main amplifier is behind the right dash speaker (I think, in your year).
 
i'll check that before i head home. used up my free time already.

thanks for the assist landcrshr. much appreciated.

--r
 
S4, S5, and S6 just hanging in the breeze.

zero on the amplifier score space ghost.

pin 4 on S4 has nothing at it. zero v and not a ground.

--r
 
this 240 is getting a little love right now.

I'll have a little time this pm to pull the 80 in and test across the dome fuse. will let you know what the results are.

--r

View attachment 1336368

Beautiful 240,

Im following this because I havent had dome lights in years and its driving me FING nuts.
 
wish the datsun were mine. hoping to find a nice one this year. most of my junk is subaru. but, since that is what we do for a living, i guess it'll do. this one belongs to a customer/friend. his dream car. suspension work. getting koni track inserts, built custom rear housing's because a previous owner destroyed them putting tokico's in. fronts are easy. section the bodies, clean things up, weld, re-install. much less stressful than last time it was here.

so, update. layed off the datsun for the day, pulled the 80 in. checked the buzzer circuit, nothing goofy there.

pulled the hatch trim, checked for fried wires, corroded circuits, and it's bueno. nothing amiss. just one broken lead to the window defroster... grumble. was like that, so i knew i was getting that.

i have all the rear trim out, so i can get to things quick, and the passenger rear door switch is intermittent now. will have to clean again, or just replace.

i popped the rear light fixture out so that i can test it. that is working fine. i tested the wires again. i have 12.6v on the switch circuit at the plug, and 0v on the power side. i'm not supposed to have power on the switch side of the circuit, am i?

--r
 
D8 diode on left. D9 on the right.

sub 2" spyderco blade for scale. they're a lot smaller than I expected.

I'll just take care of this now: "that's what SHE said!!!"

--r

image.jpeg
 
definitely a short between the power side and ground.

headliner... damn. not wanting this. sooooo not wanting this.

--r
 
Not sure where you're going with these recent posts, but I'd stay focused here:
Seems like the problem lies somewhere between the DOME fuse and the IE1 connector.
 
i let it set for a couple days. tried not to look at anything.

you are absolutely correct sir. that's where it has to be. all else being what it is.

you mentioned running a new contact from dome to IE1. see any issues with me using the power line to pin 9 on the key buzzer circuit to power the IE1 plug for dome lights? i cannot see where that would cause any issues since they both come from the same splice. other than putting a slightly higher load on the key buzzer when the dome light is on.

--r
 

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