Doing the stereo in this car sucks!!!!

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I can't get it any bigger,hope you can read it.

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I can read it and that is the way I have it hooked up but the head unit won't power up. DAMN!

I don't have the speakers hooked up yet but with power going to the stereo it won't power up. Might have a bad unit, it's brand new though.
 
Imola Red said:
I can read it and that is the way I have it hooked up but the head unit won't power up. DAMN!

I don't have the speakers hooked up yet but with power going to the stereo it won't power up. Might have a bad unit, it's brand new though.


I think I remember have power troubles when I installed my stereo. I ended up running a heavier gauge power and inline fuse that solved the problem. Should be done anyway to make sure that the new unit gets enough power. The factory unit has no internal amp, whereas the new unit does. To me, that means the new unit draws more power and the factory wiring can't push enough.
 
I think the radio 12v comes from the amp.Check at the amp with the plug disconnected for the power.With the the plug disconnect,check the wire at the radio for the 12v.If their is no power,what you have do is check which wire has the 12v coming out of the amp.then remove the plug and tie those two wires together to get the power at the radio.

Make you have acc power too if not the radio will not turn on.Grd the radio to the steel bar right behind the radio,don't use the grd in the wire harness.
 
HIJACK/
hoser said:
Also a nice place to put an ARB flexi water tank-- holds 25 liters of water... or liquor.[/QUOTE

Have you seen one of these in person hoser?? I am working on some sort of freshwater system 5-7 gallons with a pump and hadn't seen these yet. Gonna have to check price, cool if you added a 12v pump.

end hijack\
 
Christo's got 'em. I was eyeballing those too.
 
LonghornCruiser said:
I think I remember have power troubles when I installed my stereo. I ended up running a heavier gauge power and inline fuse that solved the problem. Should be done anyway to make sure that the new unit gets enough power. The factory unit has no internal amp, whereas the new unit does. To me, that means the new unit draws more power and the factory wiring can't push enough.

That makes sense! Thank you.

I'll do that and see what happens.
 
jahmaka said:
I think the radio 12v comes from the amp.Check at the amp with the plug disconnected for the power.With the the plug disconnect,check the wire at the radio for the 12v.If their is no power,what you have do is check which wire has the 12v coming out of the amp.then remove the plug and tie those two wires together to get the power at the radio.

Make you have acc power too if not the radio will not turn on.Grd the radio to the steel bar right behind the radio,don't use the grd in the wire harness.

Great idea. I'll try that or I might just re-run the wire.

Thank you for all the great info.

Hope all this helps others who are crazy enough to replace this thing on their own. :whoops:
 
Imola Red said:
Great idea. I'll try that or I might just re-run the wire.

Thank you for all the great info.

Hope all this helps others who are crazy enough to replace this thing on their own. :whoops:


When you are re-running a new power wire to the battery, you should also run a ground wire that connects to the ground point next to the battery. I did.
 
Ok, I have all the wiring sorted out at the amp. It turns out that on a 2000, there is a 14-pin and a 16-pin clip. the 14 pin is for the signal from the headunit to the amp along w/ the dimmer, amp turn on lead, and some other stuff. The 16 pin has larger gauge wire and has the power for the HU and amp from the fuse block, the main grounds for each, & all the wiring from the amp out to the speakers.

The most interesting thing about the whole thing was that the speaker leads from the Head Unit down to the amp was 5 wires - 4 seperate positive leads and a common ground. That's the thing that threw me the most. Once I got that figured out and figured out the dimmer, then I had it made.

I'm VERY happy with the sound quality w/ the Alpine amp in there and the 4 6.75" coax replacements. I can't wait to add the 8" kicker solobaric...
 
hoser said:
Have you seen one of these in person hoser?? I am working on some sort of freshwater system 5-7 gallons with a pump and hadn't seen these yet. Gonna have to check price, cool if you added a 12v pump.
I have not seen it in person but I have ruled it out for me since I have the rear A/C back there. Refer to this water storage thread. I like that its just gravity fed, making it simplier, cheaper and more reliable. However, a stainless steel water tank that uses your compressor to pressurize the tank would be cool too.
 
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bamachem said:
Ok, I have all the wiring sorted out at the amp. It turns out that on a 2000, there is a 14-pin and a 16-pin clip. the 14 pin is for the signal from the headunit to the amp along w/ the dimmer, amp turn on lead, and some other stuff. The 16 pin has larger gauge wire and has the power for the HU and amp from the fuse block, the main grounds for each, & all the wiring from the amp out to the speakers.

The most interesting thing about the whole thing was that the speaker leads from the Head Unit down to the amp was 5 wires - 4 seperate positive leads and a common ground. That's the thing that threw me the most. Once I got that figured out and figured out the dimmer, then I had it made.

I'm VERY happy with the sound quality w/ the Alpine amp in there and the 4 6.75" coax replacements. I can't wait to add the 8" kicker solobaric...

I figured the same thing out yesturday. I ended up pulling my power from there too.

At the stereo harness there is a blue/yellow wire that say's is power 12v but it only works if the two harnesses are plugged into the amp. So you just take the head unit harness at the amp and cut that wire and cut the same colored wire at the other harness and put those two together.

I got ACC power from taping into the cig lighter below the stereo.

I also ran my speakers by just running new wire from the head unit to under the seat then spliced into the harness that goes out to the speakers. Easy after you figure it all out! So hopefully this thread will help others.

I went with a 6 1/2" powered bazooka tube for a sub. Not overpowering and doesn't take up much room since I mounted it pointing up or vertically.

ps. Head unit was very easy to install because I went with the Kenwood DPX501 which is a dual din unit and the stock brackets screw right into it. Fit's great.
 

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