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- #21
I thought the m100 had semi-portal axles. Here is a picture from underneath. Axle is straight across.
Does this look like a Canadian M101 axle hub (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter slickrock
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Sorta opposite angle, but here a pic of the underside of a nice clean M100.
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- #23
Fantastic....M100 score.
Now for the big question. Take a look at probably 20 years since it has seen highway use and a LOT of rust from the coast. My concern is that I bring up all the parts to rebuild the hubs and I can't get them apart or bolts start breaking or some other problem. Hope the wheels are still round since the tires have been totally flat for who knows how long and bring up tires to mount with the starter fluid and lighter trick. Figure it takes a full 10 hours, 2 ferry rides, and about $90 for the ferries to buy emergency parts that i can't anticipate before getting to the island. Option one is to risk it and hope I can rebuild everything on the isolated island with all that in mind. I can not just go to NAPA and grab parts. It is a major ordeal to even get a fuse, let alone a specific part.
Option 2: I have a brand new 6 bolt axle with the exact same width as my 40 and FJ Cruiser (along with 60 series wheels) on my trailer here. I can put new appropriate tires on the wheels (37" Swampers at the moment) and throw them and the axle i have on my roof rack for the 3 day drive to the trailer/cabin. I'd cut off the spring perches, buy new perches and U-bolts and bring a brand new axle up with me. I have access to a welder so I'd just have to remove the old axle, weld on new perches to my new axle, slap on new U-bolts and the trailer will be ready to be pulled the 1300 miles back home. Brake and running lights are as easy as picking up some harbor freight magnet lights for a worse case electrical situation if I don't bring up new replacement lights.
Which option is the safest bet. Bring up a new, correct track width axle and tires, or try to rebuild the existing hubs/wheels/tires. Keep in mind, there is NO access to parts and the trailer has 1,300 miles to go on the first test drive.
Now for the big question. Take a look at probably 20 years since it has seen highway use and a LOT of rust from the coast. My concern is that I bring up all the parts to rebuild the hubs and I can't get them apart or bolts start breaking or some other problem. Hope the wheels are still round since the tires have been totally flat for who knows how long and bring up tires to mount with the starter fluid and lighter trick. Figure it takes a full 10 hours, 2 ferry rides, and about $90 for the ferries to buy emergency parts that i can't anticipate before getting to the island. Option one is to risk it and hope I can rebuild everything on the isolated island with all that in mind. I can not just go to NAPA and grab parts. It is a major ordeal to even get a fuse, let alone a specific part.
Option 2: I have a brand new 6 bolt axle with the exact same width as my 40 and FJ Cruiser (along with 60 series wheels) on my trailer here. I can put new appropriate tires on the wheels (37" Swampers at the moment) and throw them and the axle i have on my roof rack for the 3 day drive to the trailer/cabin. I'd cut off the spring perches, buy new perches and U-bolts and bring a brand new axle up with me. I have access to a welder so I'd just have to remove the old axle, weld on new perches to my new axle, slap on new U-bolts and the trailer will be ready to be pulled the 1300 miles back home. Brake and running lights are as easy as picking up some harbor freight magnet lights for a worse case electrical situation if I don't bring up new replacement lights.
Which option is the safest bet. Bring up a new, correct track width axle and tires, or try to rebuild the existing hubs/wheels/tires. Keep in mind, there is NO access to parts and the trailer has 1,300 miles to go on the first test drive.
#2 would be the slickest result. But there is a problem...
Fenders. I don't think they're going to work with 37s. I suspect the M100 is pretty similar to my M101 CDN. You can go as tall as 33s and you're OK to run, even if the fenders aren't wide enough to be legal.
If you do a SOA conversion, that will gain you the needed height, I'm fairly sure. The shape of the fenders will still be an issue. Look at how close they follow that much smaller tire. But those are round and mine are angled so there's really no way to be certain on the fenders with getting things together to size them up.
Another issue is that fenders for the taller tires need to be somehow inset into where the tub flares out because they will hit somewhere ABOVE where the flare begins. You can't use only the easy flat side of the tub to mount against. It'll have to be more complex to fit correctly. Keep in mind there needs to be enough clearance for full spring travel
The real issue of course if whether you can run legally without the fenders or can improvise a legally acceptable substitute to get you home for now. Another alternative would be to simply flatbed the poor thing out.
Finally, here's a pic of our trailer from an angle that shows how the wider fenders I had made to run 33s fit. And a side view with the 33s. I think when I measured, it looked possible to still run spring under axle with 35s with raised fenders alone. You'll have to judge for yourself on 37s, but I'm pretty sure your into SOA territory there, even with modded fenders.
Fenders. I don't think they're going to work with 37s. I suspect the M100 is pretty similar to my M101 CDN. You can go as tall as 33s and you're OK to run, even if the fenders aren't wide enough to be legal.
If you do a SOA conversion, that will gain you the needed height, I'm fairly sure. The shape of the fenders will still be an issue. Look at how close they follow that much smaller tire. But those are round and mine are angled so there's really no way to be certain on the fenders with getting things together to size them up.
Another issue is that fenders for the taller tires need to be somehow inset into where the tub flares out because they will hit somewhere ABOVE where the flare begins. You can't use only the easy flat side of the tub to mount against. It'll have to be more complex to fit correctly. Keep in mind there needs to be enough clearance for full spring travel
The real issue of course if whether you can run legally without the fenders or can improvise a legally acceptable substitute to get you home for now. Another alternative would be to simply flatbed the poor thing out.
Finally, here's a pic of our trailer from an angle that shows how the wider fenders I had made to run 33s fit. And a side view with the 33s. I think when I measured, it looked possible to still run spring under axle with 35s with raised fenders alone. You'll have to judge for yourself on 37s, but I'm pretty sure your into SOA territory there, even with modded fenders.
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- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks for the great response. I wouldn't run the 37 on the trailer. I'd replace them with some 30-31". My only concern then is the width of the trailer compares to in inside of the wheels/tires on my axle. I will check that width this weekend and compare that to dimensions of the trailer's width I find online.
Thanks again for such a detailed response.
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- #26
It looks like the trailer is 38" wide(online source). Can some one measure the width between the side of the trailer and the back of a tire so I can figure out if my axle is wide enough?
Thanks, Fan
Thanks, Fan
From some rough measurements that I took awhile ago;
spring pin to spring pin =~36.5", Spring pin to end between 7 & 8."
I hope to be working mine Saturday if you need more precise measurements.
Couple of things to mention;
Mine has left hand lug nuts, don't know if all of them are like that.
In case you didn't know, the M100 has parking brakes. Tt seems like your handle is missing but the drums and cable seems to be intact.
spring pin to spring pin =~36.5", Spring pin to end between 7 & 8."
I hope to be working mine Saturday if you need more precise measurements.
Couple of things to mention;
Mine has left hand lug nuts, don't know if all of them are like that.
In case you didn't know, the M100 has parking brakes. Tt seems like your handle is missing but the drums and cable seems to be intact.
As a possible option 3...
This trailer is pretty small & light. If you have access to a small utility trailer, you could probably use that to bring it back.
This trailer is pretty small & light. If you have access to a small utility trailer, you could probably use that to bring it back.
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- #29
Actually, I think you saved me a lot of work by not having lugging my arc welder up north. Space in my FJC and the roof rack is premium space because I have to bring all my gear I use during the winter, fuel for the boat, and food for me, my son, and father for a minimum of a month because we only make the two ferry trips to Vancouver once half way between the two months I'm up there.
Can I take it as written in stone that the spring perches center hole (for the spring nipple to drop into) is exactly 36.5" apart. So from their centers and the center of the axle, the spring perches are 18.25"?
Would you also mind measuring the distance from the back of the tires and body of the trailer along with the height, width, and length of the spring perches so I can buy the correct size along with the length, width, and diameter of the U-bolts in order to get the correct one of those? It will be much easier and cheaper to find compatible parts from NAPA rather than trying to track down original replacements online.
I will worry about rebuilding the original axle and deal with the brakes and handle when I get back to the States with the trailer.
Sorry for all the measurements. I have to get it right the first time because it will would mean the trailer sitting until the summer of 2015 if I get it wrong.
Option 3 isn't plausible because I can't physically load the trailer into another trailer by myself and if I brought back the other utility trailer I have at the cabin, I'd have to bring that back the next year and leave the M100 home. I plan on using it round trip that next summer. My camping trailer here isn't much more than a 4x5 box with giant tires and attachment points for a roof carrier and fuel and water carriers. It isn't even big enough for a roof-top tent, let alone another trailer on top of it.
Thanks so much, Dan
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Dan,
Let me take a careful measurement on the spring pins this weekend to verify.
I will get the rest of the measurements as well.
Charlton
Let me take a careful measurement on the spring pins this weekend to verify.
I will get the rest of the measurements as well.
Charlton
Dan,
Don't know if this will help, but I found images of the M100 manual online: http://operatormanuals.tpub.com/TM-9-2330-201-14/index.htm
Here's the page with the data on measurements:
http://operatormanuals.tpub.com/TM-9-2330-201-14/TM-9-2330-201-140014.htm
I suspect Charlton's help may still be needed with things that aren't covered on the data plate, though.
Don't know if this will help, but I found images of the M100 manual online: http://operatormanuals.tpub.com/TM-9-2330-201-14/index.htm
Here's the page with the data on measurements:
http://operatormanuals.tpub.com/TM-9-2330-201-14/TM-9-2330-201-140014.htm
I suspect Charlton's help may still be needed with things that aren't covered on the data plate, though.
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- #32
Thanks. I will take a look at those this weekend. unfortunately it is a busy work Friday.
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- #33
Charlton,
Were you able to confirm the centers for the axle spring perches and their width?
Greentruck,
Thanks for the links... they were helpful. Body width is 36 3/4 and it looks like the width between the inside of the tires is 41"s.
From what I can tell from the pictures, the tire hight is 28"s. It shouldn't be too hard to find some used tires between 28-30"s until I can find original wheels.
Were you able to confirm the centers for the axle spring perches and their width?
Greentruck,
Thanks for the links... they were helpful. Body width is 36 3/4 and it looks like the width between the inside of the tires is 41"s.
From what I can tell from the pictures, the tire hight is 28"s. It shouldn't be too hard to find some used tires between 28-30"s until I can find original wheels.
Yes, unfortunately I was a little off.
I was trying to measure the distance between the bottom of the spring pins but it was kind of difficult by myself. I came up with 36 1/8 (centered). I think that the manuals spec of 36 1/4 is what you want to go by. Given the size of the hole in the plate, I think you could easily get 1/16" of play from each side.
The U-bolts are 3/8" thickness, 2 3/4" wide (from center line)
The springs are 1/3/4 wide, the u-bolts are spaced 2 1/4 from each other (from center line).
The side of the trailer and the outer side of the outer u-bolt are close to being on the same plane. Meaning you can use the outer u-bolt to determine if your wheel/tire backspace is OK.
Let me know if you need any other measurements
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- #35
Yes, unfortunately I was a little off.
I was trying to measure the distance between the bottom of the spring pins but it was kind of difficult by myself. I came up with 36 1/8 (centered). I think that the manuals spec of 36 1/4 is what you want to go by. Given the size of the hole in the plate, I think you could easily get 1/16" of play from each side.
The U-bolts are 3/8" thickness, 2 3/4" wide (from center line)
The springs are 1/3/4 wide, the u-bolts are spaced 2 1/4 from each other (from center line).
The side of the trailer and the outer side of the outer u-bolt are close to being on the same plane. Meaning you can use the outer u-bolt to determine if your wheel/tire backspace is OK.
Let me know if you need any other measurements
Fantastic. I couldn't find that measurement on the manual but if you have seen it as 36 1/4" I will go by that. I should be able to get enough side by side movement if I loosen up the shackle and the play built into the perches and make it work even if I have to hog the holes a bit.
Thanks for taking the time to do this for me. It should be enough to get he job done up north. I'm just going to grab some magnetic lights so I don't have to worry about that. I also posted in the wanted section for a pare of R16, 29-31" tires. Hopefully the curved fenders can handle up to a 31. Just depends on what I come across.
Oh shoot. Maybe next time your out there, take a measurement of the thickness of the perches. No rush. I have till spring. Hate working in a freezing garage.
Thanks again,
Dan
Dan,
I used some HF magnetic lights when bringing home our M101 CDN from Iowa. Stuck 'em on the sides of the box, but thought to zip-tie them, too. That was a good thing, as the magnets just seem a bit weak to stick to a bouncing 1/4 ton trailer and at least one was just hanging when I got home.
The roads you're bring your trailer back on are probably even less smooth. Probably best to plan on the magnets doing most of the sticking, but also have a backup plan to attach them better -- or at least not leave them bouncing along the pavement.
I used some HF magnetic lights when bringing home our M101 CDN from Iowa. Stuck 'em on the sides of the box, but thought to zip-tie them, too. That was a good thing, as the magnets just seem a bit weak to stick to a bouncing 1/4 ton trailer and at least one was just hanging when I got home.
The roads you're bring your trailer back on are probably even less smooth. Probably best to plan on the magnets doing most of the sticking, but also have a backup plan to attach them better -- or at least not leave them bouncing along the pavement.
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- #37
Thanks.
I have flat towed my 40 before and even though I mounted the magnets on a flat surface ( my rear carrier) they fell off the first at some point and dragged long enough down the road to short out my tow rig's brake light fuse. I bought a new pair and have zipped tied them ever since. Great minds think alike.
Dan
Or have common experiences with HF stuff
This is turning into a great thread on how to "rescue" hardware from the woods. Looking forward to seeing how things go as you proceed.
I get a chance, I'll measure how much room is under the fender. My work is crazy busy at the end of the year so it might be the weekend before I get a chance to get out there. I think the worse case for 31s is you might have to go SOA.
As for the perches, are you looking for thickness of the steel or other?
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- #40
I'm thinking I can find some 29-30" tires just to be safe. If you have stock tires, let me know the size. As for the perches, I will need their width, length, and height so the U-bolts fit. No rush. I won't work on the axle here till spring. Thanks agin.
Dan
