Does Duralast suck? vs OEM?

[FishNinJay]

Background: new '71 FJ40 with SBC 327, auto trans. Doing oil/filter change, tune-up, etc..

I went to autozone, and got Bosch Platinum plugs for like $2.80 per , but then got Everlast distributor, rotor, wires,.. and noticed how much cheaper they are than the Bosch equivalent parts.

Did a quick google, and saw tons of posts blasting Duralast alternators and starters as cr@p.

What's the deal? Are the OEM or brand names really better, or worth the extra costs?

For that matter.. does brand of oil and filters matter? Keep in mind my engine is an SBC 327, that I believe is around 1965 vintage. I got 5qts of some Quaker 10W30 oil that is supposed to be specially made for high-mileage or classic engines (on sale Walmart). BTW, I'm in So. Cali, so not much cold weather here. Should I be using 5W30?

 

[KLF]

Generally yes, it is worth the extra expense for OEM parts, especially with Toyota. Not sure with a Chevy...

There are several oil filter studies out on the 'net to read. I did my own a few years ago, and generally I fould them all acceptable, except for Fram. I would NEVER EVER put a Fram on any of my engines.

 

[lone gunman]

i have to agree with KLF, i buy the better stuff. for oil filters i prefer Wix but have used puralater. i dont like fram either. they are one of the cheapest filters made. and i have heard bad things from our machanics at work about them but have never had a problem when i went cheap and used them. and as far as the oil 10/30 should be fine in the old 327 in the heat. but i stay away from quaker state and penzoil. they are a wax based oil (perifin) and my old 331 in my 69 Z-28 (D-stroked 350) use to eat them up. i use only castrol and never had any problems with it. and as far as cap and rotor, buy only stuff with brass contacts in them. they will out last any aluminum crap. the aluminum will work fine, but i stay away from them. this is just my opinion and others are bound to disagree.

 

[FishNinJay]

great info.. thanks.

I think based on my research, my 327 block is from a 1965 vette!

ok.. so I'll look for the castrol. I didn't know there were so many differences!
I don't think I saw Wix at the local autozone. Also, what manufacturers use
the brass contacts? Do the bosch cap/rotor combo have the brass? What about
plugs?

Ok.. thanks again for all the advice!
This site rocks!!

 

[joeyg1973]

Out of curiousity, what makes fram so bad?

 

[lone gunman]

if your block is actually from a vette it may have collector value for someone restoring a vette.

your engine may be fine with the quaker, i just had problems with an engine going through it. if its in the motor leave it till next oil change. and yeah not to many places carry Wix, but shucks, orielies (sp) and checker should carry purolater.

and as far as cap and rotor just ask for one with brass contacts when you buy your next one. the parts guys will know what you want. i dont know if the generic stuff will have them but they didnt the last time i looked inside the cap. and the bosch platinum plugs are great plugs for the chevy.

and the differance in filters is fram is glued together and Wix and purolater have a steel rib that holds the pleets inside together. there may be other differances too, i dont know. like i said i have never had a problem with them when i used them. but our mechanics at work are ASE certified and all 3 of them dont use fram and they say dont.

 

[Kofoed]

For that matter.. does brand of oil and filters matter? ?

With that engine you should look for a racing oil with a high zinc phosphate content or add something like this:

ZDDPlus™ - ZDDP Additive for Classic Cars - Agricultural Equipment & More

You used to just run Shell Rotella, but it may not have the right zinc content anymore.