Does driveshaft yoke-to-flange orientation matter? (1 Viewer)

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I've been searching and reading driveline threads and haven't seen this specifically addressed:

The FSM says to place matchmarks everywhere, including the flange yokes to flanges, for both the transfer case flange and the pinion flange. Does this orientation actually matter?

20170906103610-3c907aba.png


The reason I ask is because, of course, at some point in my rig's past the front shaft was removed and there were only matchmarks on one end (white marks in the pic below). As a bonus, whoever did the work marked the sleeve yoke, but reassembled it misaligned:

20170906095302-d3b86832-xx.jpg
 
Hard to tell in your pic need to see both ends. When out lay shaft on solid flat surface. Do both ends lune up

image.jpg
 
The front driveshaft is "supposed" to be aligned out of phase. I'm not all that sure it matters though.
 
It was in the early years, but they changed it in the FSM to be correct. IIRC
 
I've been searching and reading driveline threads and haven't seen this specifically addressed:

The FSM says to place matchmarks everywhere, including the flange yokes to flanges, for both the transfer case flange and the pinion flange. Does this orientation actually matter?

20170906103610-3c907aba.png


The reason I ask is because, of course, at some point in my rig's past the front shaft was removed and there were only matchmarks on one end (white marks in the pic below). As a bonus, whoever did the work marked the sleeve yoke, but reassembled it misaligned:

20170906095302-d3b86832-xx.jpg


Wht you are seeing is the paint marks on the yoke and one on the THREADED SEAL collar. When the seal collar was tightened, it makes it APPEAR out of alignment. The important part is what @Burbot is trying to show, as in phase from one end or the other. Or 90* out of phase, depending on application.
 
Wht you are seeing is the paint marks on the yoke and one on the THREADED SEAL collar. When the seal collar was tightened, it makes it APPEAR out of alignment.

It was actually out of alignment. I aligned the two marks and the flanges were a proper 90 degrees out of phase.
 
Hard to tell in your pic need to see both ends. When out lay shaft on solid flat surface. Do both ends lune up

View attachment 1532461

Needs to be phased correctly

View attachment 1532463

The front driveshaft is "supposed" to be aligned out of phase. I'm not all that sure it matters though.

Thanks guys, but I'm talking specifically about how the flange yokes align with the flanges of the transfer case and the pinion flanges.

With regards to shaft configuration, I believe the yellow paint marks put it properly 90 degrees out of phase, but the nipples were in opposite sides, so it was 180 (plus a tooth or two misalignment) off. I now have it in 90 degrees out of phase, nipples aligned, flanges unmatched, and I'm still getting pretty bad vibration. Next step is new joints and a balance job if those don't fix it.
 
I've always put prop shaft in "in phase" as per instruction of builders. When shaft is made they put it together in phase then balance it. Once one end is in the other end is fitted by rotating the flange until it will mate.
 
Thanks guys, but I'm talking specifically about how the flange yokes align with the flanges of the transfer case and the pinion flanges.

With regards to shaft configuration, I believe the yellow paint marks put it properly 90 degrees out of phase, but the nipples were in opposite sides, so it was 180 (plus a tooth or two misalignment) off. I now have it in 90 degrees out of phase, nipples aligned, flanges unmatched, and I'm still getting pretty bad vibration. Next step is new joints and a balance job if those don't fix it.

I just had my front done at Oregon Driveline specialty $186 and just installed it, have it done I had a bit of vibration and this fixed it
 
Thanks guys, but I'm talking specifically about how the flange yokes align with the flanges of the transfer case and the pinion flanges.

With regards to shaft configuration, I believe the yellow paint marks put it properly 90 degrees out of phase, but the nipples were in opposite sides, so it was 180 (plus a tooth or two misalignment) off. I now have it in 90 degrees out of phase, nipples aligned, flanges unmatched, and I'm still getting pretty bad vibration. Next step is new joints and a balance job if those don't fix it.
Yeah, sorry, misread... I don't think the yoke-to-flange alignment should matter.
 
Please tell me where mr t says to mis phase his prop shafts either front or rear. Let's solve this once and for all. I'm going to take one into Westrans and ask The boss there. Then post new thread with a pole.
 
Just for the sake of my curiosity, where'd you get this?

I'm a Military Maintenance Instructor and conduct class on several platforms, Track, Wheel and Weapon systems. We have all kinds of stuff for visual aids for our students. Most of it is death by powerpoint...LOL :bang: I also believe that a picture is worth a thousand words, that's why I post a lot of visual vs explanatory posts. I find that most of my students learn faster with visual aids and discussion on the finer points.

Why do you ask?
 
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You can put them in two ways, 180° different. Flange bolt pattern is rectangular.

Getting yolks and uni joints back together with grease nipples in the correct orientation is the trickiest bit :banana::lol:
No, the front bolt pattern is 60x60x10. Rear is 66x66x11. Both square.
 
Older Land Cruiser pinion flanges were "rectangular". I know the ones on my FJ40 are and its a 1975.
 

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