Does anyone make NON-raised steering arms??

[toy4xfun]

could you move your steering box forward?

 

[KLF]

I looked at doing that, it would be a HUGE amount of work to just gain a fraction of an inch. I'm actually installing a 1/4" plate brace on the frame today for the steering box.

 

[toy4xfun]

well if you are welding the plate on now would be the time to move it.

 

[toy4xfun]

Thanks 4WU for the clarification, yeah I was talking about the steering arms, sorry for the confusion.

no i think i was the only one confused, probably because few people around here call the pitman buy that name they call it a steering arm.

 

[Chop Shop]

OK, so if my Sky arms are shorter, how can I fix my binding problem? BTW I have my front axle moved forward, I think about 1-1/2" or so, whatever that other hole is in the spring perch. So I know that's the main cause of the problem, but I'm wondering if there's a combo that will keep the pitman from hitting the tie rod. I'm using my stock pitman, I have Sky's special TRE that adapts the draglink to the stock tapered pin on the pitnam, but I don't mind swapping parts out to get rid of the bind.

I'd really rather not move the axle back to the stock location, I'm sure the tires will rub on the inner fenders.

I dont normally do this on customers rigs, but on my truck it has been built a few times in different forms. Last time I moved the axle forward more I was not wanting to move the box so I took the tierod off and put a very slight bend in it right where it would contact the pitman arm end and then adjusted it longer (to compensate for bending it making it shorter) and its been that way for over two years of HARD abuse on 38.5x 16 wide tsls and has never bent or given me a problem with clearance.

But its ghetto.

 

[KLF]

Interesting idea, but I have a BudBuilt HD tie rod. I don't have a hammer big enough to bend that thing. Maybe I could jig something up in my 20T press.

I did a lot of measuring and checking last night. Moving the box is the obvious solution, and this is the time to do it for sure. I have a piece of 1/4" plate all cut and ready to weld on to the inside of the frame rail as a brace. But without the cab on the frame, I can't be sure how much room there is to move it until it will hit the cab sheetmetal, and I'm NOT cutting my cab. I shoulda did this before I pulled the cab off, oh well.

There's plenty of room between the tie rod and the springs, so I'm probably just gonna go with my relocation plate idea on the spring perches, move the axle back about 1/2".

 

[4WheelUnderground]

I think we just hyjacked Jynx's thread.

But you need to post some pics in a thread so we can better help you. How do you know that they are contacting each other if you dont have the weight of the truck on it and dont flex the springs? Remeber with the shackle in back (opposite of a cruiser) the tire, axle and tie rod move rearward under compression.

If you knew this already, for get me.

 

[KLF]

I've been driving on the SAS since 2003 (no way you would know this, of course), so ya I know it does conflict. It's not a hard conflict, just enough to rub the paint off the tie rod. It mostly bugs me, so I figured this would be the time to fix it.