Does anyone make NON-raised steering arms??

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jynx

jynx

Turd Herder
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I have been looking into rebuilding the front end on my pickup. I have been looking at the three-link setup that 4wheelunderground makes, but I want to keep it low. While looking over the setup, it appears that one of the major problems is the steering. With HY steer, the arms are purposely raised to help clear leaf springs on a typical SAS, but with a link setup, there is no need for the extra height and i would suspect that a standard arm, or even one with a step down would be great for a link setup.

Does anyone make anything like this? Rockstomper used to make a flat arm, can't find it on their website anymore. Maybe a flat arm with an undermounted modified tie rod that would accept the drag link a few inches inboard of the tie rod end. That should take care of the frame clearance on the drag link, but I am not sure how that would affect the panhard bar. Thoughts?

One other thing that I want to talk to the guys at 4WU about is if one was not looking for max travel, if a short arm kit might be achievable. Using a coilover, short arms and then the flat or inverted arms to keep it super low. I know that sounds bass ackwards, but this is my DD and the front end is tweaked so an SAS will let me tidy things up alignment wise and would let me build a better ride in to boot. Besides I have an 88 4runner that will be for trail riding and the FJ80 to haul the fam around in.

Any thoughts on any of this, am I crazy for even thinking about this?

Tucker
 
Last edited:
toy4xfun said:
:hhmm: i wonder if i put my arm on upside down, mine drops not raises, if i put it on the other way it would hit the frame.
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Interesting, I have never seen an aftermarket arm that had a drop to it. Does it not hit the leaf springs? Man, hit the frame, you must have a low setup, I will have to look for some pictures of this for reference. I always thought that the reason for the "lift" was to clear the springs on an SAS. I have been studying the 4WU 3-link setup and was looking for options other than notching the frame to clear the draglink and panhard bars. Was just a thought that rolled out for some feedback.

As I have discovered the two are inter-twined and if one is altered, the other must follow suit or the suspension gods will be upset and may smite you :frown:

Tucker
 
toy4xfun said:
:hhmm: i wonder if i put my arm on upside down, mine drops not raises, if i put it on the other way it would hit the frame.
Click to expand...

first one wouldnt bolt up flipped around, and the trunion bearing that the knuckle steers on would be un supported
 
laskt9 said:
there arent going to be any springs... ?
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Correct, this would be on a Coil over 3-link setup and the lower arms would be to help with clearance for the draglink on the PS framerail.
 
so this is wrong?

toy4xfun-albums-my-rig-picture19632-mytruck-247.jpg
 
^^^ that's pretty much what mine looks like (stock pitman arm). I have Sky Manufacturing arms, I think they are a tiny bit longer, as my pitman arm will slightly hit the tie rod if I compress the driver's side while going straight, it's not a hard hit just enough to rub the paint off.

Whose arms are those?
 
Thanks 4WU for the clarification, yeah I was talking about the steering arms, sorry for the confusion.
 
toy4xfun said:
oh my bad i thought he was talking about the pit-man arm!

oh and i would still want a rise on those arms too, that way it keeps every thing up and out of the way!
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You know for years that was a big concern, but I'd have to say that over the last 6 years or so, thats been a lot less of a concern because we've all become much smarter and typically we run larger tube diameters and wall thicknesses along with larger TRE's to help prevent breakage. It's by no means bullet proof but it's certainly a huge improvement over what we did 15 years ago.
 
OK, so if my Sky arms are shorter, how can I fix my binding problem? BTW I have my front axle moved forward, I think about 1-1/2" or so, whatever that other hole is in the spring perch. So I know that's the main cause of the problem, but I'm wondering if there's a combo that will keep the pitman from hitting the tie rod. I'm using my stock pitman, I have Sky's special TRE that adapts the draglink to the stock tapered pin on the pitnam, but I don't mind swapping parts out to get rid of the bind.

I'd really rather not move the axle back to the stock location, I'm sure the tires will rub on the inner fenders.
 
Is there anybody that makes a slightly shorter arm than the stock one? I only need about 1/4" and it will be fine.

I suppose I could take some 3/8" plate and weld new perches on the front axle, with the pin holes just a wee bit forward from the ones I'm using now. Hmmm... I'd have to check that the tie rod won't hit the springs though.
 
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