Does anyone know what these connections are called 1991 fj80 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Lyz
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Correction; Not starter relay but, the EFI relay was replaced.The US spec 80 Series never had a starter relay, so I'm not sure what you replaced.
If your starter is 30 years old it is likely well past its lifespan. Be sure to replace it with the proper Denso unit. Aftermarket starters have a very short lifespan in these vehicles.
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You could also try replacing the starter solenoid contacts and plunger, and cleaning out the bore. OEM parts are available from Toyota or you can simply purchase the kit from Absolute Wits End.
Starter Rebuild Kit- 2F/3F-E Land Cruisers, 1.0kW
Starter Rebuild Kit- 2F/3F-E Land Cruisers, 1.0Kw (SRK-1KIT)absolute-wits-end.com
If you search this forum you'll find many threads on replacing the contacts and plunger.
- Thread starter
- #24
So here’s what happens with the CEL…when the key goes in no CEL
when key is in the on position
the CEL comes on
when I crank it the CEL stays
on until it starts and then it
goes off while it’s running.
The engine runs for about a
minute and then it dies.
Turning the key back to the off position, to begin again…if the CEL does not light up in the on position the truck won’t start. This is random. It may start twice in a row or be dead twice in a row. When it dies after running for that minute, there’s no sputter or indecision about dying, it just shuts down.
when key is in the on position
the CEL comes on
when I crank it the CEL stays
on until it starts and then it
goes off while it’s running.
The engine runs for about a
minute and then it dies.
Turning the key back to the off position, to begin again…if the CEL does not light up in the on position the truck won’t start. This is random. It may start twice in a row or be dead twice in a row. When it dies after running for that minute, there’s no sputter or indecision about dying, it just shuts down.
You mentioned in your previous post replacing the EFI relay with a cheap Autozone relay? What is the reasons for that?
Oh yeah.
- Thread starter
- #29
The internment start has been an ongoing issue. It would start and run at the beginning of the day. After driving for about an hour , I turned it off,take the key out. When I would try to restart it , it would be dead. It wouldn’t turn over, no dash lights , no click, just silent (the dead zone I’ve come to call it). I would get under it and try smacking the starter but it would never do the trick . It would only restart after waiting for 20 to 30 minutes, and I would make it home .
I recently had some charging problems ( aside from the intermittent starting or dead zone problem). I looked under the hood and saw that the alternator plug and the vsv plug wires were broken from corrosion. I replaced both ( vsv was used from eBay) . I had to pigtail them in , (disconnecting and reconnecting the battery several times while I tested my connections). Hooked everything back up, jump in it, went for a 10 minute drive, everything seemed fine so….I went for a longer drive, I parked it , let it sit for about 20 minutes, got in, first key turn was dead zone, second turn it cranked ( the same ongoing intermittent starting). I drove it home parked it, turned it off ,tried to start it immediately and it was dead zone. The first thing that comes to mind is the ignition switch ,because that’s the way it acts (old Chevy experience) just dead. I tried to restart it the next day. Turned the key it was cranking but would not start. It acted like it was out of gas. At this point I did some reading, found some info about the key position and the CEL. I played with that and noticed when the key is in the on position and the CEL is not on I get the dead zone. I turn the key back to off, leaving it in the ignition, I turn it back to on position ,IF the CEL comes on the engine starts, runs for a minute and dies abruptly. Which is a new development since I replaced the vsv plug.
I do appreciate your time and I’m sorry if it all seems confusing. I’m trying to cover the problem step by step. It almost seems like the problem’s are compiling. I’ve started a check list for this Saturday, hoping to trace any contact issues or bad wires. Thank you again
While it's possible that it may be the ignition switch, this sounds like a power source problem to me.
I would replace the 3 fusible links at the positive battery terminal.
absolute-wits-end.com
I would also make certain that the battery cables are good and tight.
What is the condition of the battery? Put a volt meter across the terminals with the engine off and with the engine on. What are the readings?
I would replace the 3 fusible links at the positive battery terminal.
Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser
Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)
What is the condition of the battery? Put a volt meter across the terminals with the engine off and with the engine on. What are the readings?
I had experienced what you described as "dead zone" in the past. No CEL, no cranking, no zip, starter not turning....found out it was a bad EFI relay. When you mentioned you had replaced the EFI relay with an aftermarket "autozone" unit? That tells me something might be related to that...I would start from there...replace the Janky autozone relay with a OEM toyota unit or better yet, upgrade to the newer style plastic relay from Toyota. plug that in and see if you get CEL on the "ON" position, then go from there. Also like I have said previously, go thru all your engine groundings....make sure the grounding straps are good and have solid connections. Good luck and keep us posted.
- Thread starter
- #32
That was an attempt at eliminating the original intermittent starting issue. I read ,because of its location it could get hot and be a potential cause of the no start or the dead zone start. Made some sense at the time. Some people claimed success but, no luck for me.
- Thread starter
- #33
The battery is brand new. 4/22While it's possible that it may be the ignition switch, this sounds like a power source problem to me.
I would replace the 3 fusible links at the positive battery terminal.
I would also make certain that the battery cables are good and tight.Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser
Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)
What is the condition of the battery? Put a volt meter across the terminals with the engine off and with the engine on. What are the readings?
- Thread starter
- #35
Thank you for your interest and time. Do you by chance know the toy oem # for the EFI relay?
I'm going to have to disagree with you on this. While a faulty EFI relay will certainly effect the CEL, it has absolutely no bearing on the starter circuit whatsoever. With the EFI relay removed, the starter will still crank. In fact you could remove the entire EFI system and 90% of the other systems on the truck and the starter will still crank.
You are 100% on this one. Now I think about it, it was a combination of a bad neutral safety switch (no start and no crank) and bad EFI relay (no CEL)
90987-02004 is the OEM EFI relay from 1991-1997.
28300-16010 is the substitute plastic housing relay from a Camry.
- Thread starter
- #40
While it's possible that it may be the ignition switch, this sounds like a power source problem to me.
I would replace the 3 fusible links at the positive battery terminal.
I would also make certain that the battery cables are good and tight.Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser
Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)
What is the condition of the battery? Put a volt meter across the terminals with the engine off and with the engine on. What are the readings?
Thank you so much. I will update soon.
