Does a 200 LC or LX really need a warranty? (1 Viewer)

[mezger996]

Good morning,

I have posted some on the 100 series forums as I currently own a 2007 with around 194k on it. Runs very well and on top of maintenance, though lived its previous life in MN and WI. I have tried best I can to mitigate rust with annual fluid film.....while the frame is not rotten, I have some body rust under the rear bumper and rear fenders, has not reached the actual exterior yet. Over the last few years I have made some lower rocker repairs, etc. However, I have had to address AC line repairs, brake line repairs, AHC shocks, all due to rust and it is becoming frustrating. AHC lines/globes are still original, original control arms/ball joints, and original brake booster. It is either sell while still in good shape and running well, or invest $$ in a rusty vehicle and just drive it into the ground. It will need tires come spring time as well.

My other 2 vehicles are a 2001 911 turbo and a 2000 911 C4 cabriolet, so I am definitely used to repairs and some expensive bills from time to time, however they do not include any rust related issues, more so just repairs and maintenance.

While these cars are all paid for, I am considering trading the 100 for a newer 200 or LX for less BS and more piece of mind. Though I don't want to have to spend a bunch on maintenance right away. Possibly a 4 runner though I have been spoiled by the ride of the 100 Of course, I could get a Cayenne v6 or Diesel with CPO for mid 20s, but good luck post warranty. I would prefer to keep my SUVs Japanese due to reliability and cost of ownership.

Is it pretty safe owning a 200 or LX post warranty or is it more so a matter of purchasing from a rust free state with proper PPI? I absolutely love my 100 but the rust issues sure take away from the ownership experience. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[ryanCA]

check the last 10 threads on this page

head gaskets
oil consumption
few people needing new engines lately
radiators
valley plate
bad starter
cam tower leaks

200 aint cheap. We just pretend it is around here.

Like those 996 boys who think they have a real Porsche, mezger elitism aside, we think we drive reliable elite Japanese suvs

 

[TLC2013]

When I bought my 2013 LC in 2018 i initially opted for a 3rd party warranty. Due to the known issues of cam tower leaks, timing cover leaks and the radiator issues on the pre 2018 model years. After my radiator showed the common crack i contacted the warranty company and they wouldnt honor the repair as the radiator hadn't failed and spilled its coolant everywhere. I canceled the warranty and got most of my money back.
Also with cam tower and timing cover leaks, they are often small and remain as seeps for a long time and so i imagine most aftermarket warranties will figure out ways to avoid covering the job.

Headgasket insurance would be my main reason to consider a warranty....with that said throw the money that the warranty costs ($2,000-3,500) into the market and within a few years youll have a good chunk of change to cover any repairs. Just some food for thought.

 

[dudemancool1904]

check the last 10 threads on this page

head gaskets
oil consumption
few people needing new engines lately
radiators
valley plate
bad starter
cam tower leaks

200 aint cheap. We just pretend it is around here.

Like those 996 boys who think they have a real Porsche, mezger elitism aside, we think we drive reliable elite Japanese suvs

me laughing while bathing in copies of my factory Toyota warranty valid through 2032 for the cost of a MacBook Air.

 

[mezger996]

Wow, I burn zero oil between changes and have a new aluminum radiator as well as starter as of 2 years ago. Perhaps I’m better off getting new tires and driving it til it rots

 

[Heckraiser]

Warranty is unnecessary IMO for LC200, LX570 or 4Runner. Living in rustland, you will eventually run into the same issues with the LX570, and to a lesser extent, the LC200 as well. With KDSS there are a few very rust-sensitive pieces of hardware underneath, with AHC there are more of them (200 AHC has many more parts than 100 AHC). 4runner is definitely the cheapest and simplest to repair, least susceptible to rust-sensitive parts in the undercarriage (there basically are none) and can be happily driven into the ground. My stepdad is well over 300k on his 5th gen and it's still running like a top.

If you like your 100, you might just consider AHC delete, and a good round of maintenance, then drive it till the wheels fall off. Probably the cheapest option.

 

[mezger996]

Is this just a Toyota and Lexus body on frame specific issue? Seems they can handle the harsh terrain and mountains of Afghanistan but not winter salt lol.
Could always get one from a rust free state and be diligent on fluid film, etc, but probably will be in the same situation?

 

[MRego]

me laughing while bathing in copies of my factory Toyota warranty valid through 2032 for the cost of a MacBook Air.

CPO?

To the OP: If you are hunting for a 200, definitely look for a CPO and be worry free for 7 years.

 

[Heckraiser]

Specifically,

Land cruiser: The KDSS adjustment screw tends to rust shut if not slathered in grease for the winter, which makes it very difficult to balance the system after suspension work. LX570: there are several hydraulic lines and other small components in the AHC system that could potentially rust out, leak out the AHC juice and some are not easy to replace or diagnose (i.e. above the frame, above the gas tank, etc.).

The issue is that there is a lot of specialized componentry installed on the undercarriage of these trucks. With traditional suspension, you've just got struts, springs, swaybars. Normal stuff that's relatively easy and cheap to replace.

If you keep a strict annual rust treatment regimen, they're not going to fall apart on you, but you might want to give some instructions to your undercoating guy for specific stuff to aim for (if you're not doing it yourself).

 

[rexington14]

Is this just a Toyota and Lexus body on frame specific issue? Seems they can handle the harsh terrain and mountains of Afghanistan but not winter salt lol.

Haven't you heard?

The "Land Cruiser" has a 25+ year expected service life. *

* except in first world countries in locations where roads are salted

 

[mezger996]

Haven't you heard?

The "Land Cruiser" has a 25+ year expected service life. *

* except in first world countries in locations where roads are salted

This is great but unfortunately pretty true

 

[dudemancool1904]

CPO?

To the OP: If you are hunting for a 200, definitely look for a CPO and be worry free for 7 years.

yup. In the beginning of 2024 dealers were buying used late model 200s at auction and looking to cash in on the HE-driven madness but many of them just sat. Several trucks I flew to look at were on the lot for 90 days or more. My truck was bought by the dealer in late February but I didn’t buy it until June. Left a lot of meat on the bone. I walked out of negotiations three times before I got the deal I wanted. I think they just happy to get the floor space back.

 

[MRego]

yup. In the beginning of 2024 dealers were buying used late model 200s at auction and looking to cash in on the HE-driven madness but many of them just sat. Several trucks I flew to look at were on the lot for 90 days or more. My truck was bought by the dealer in late February but I didn’t buy it until June. Left a lot of meat on the bone. I walked out of negotiations three times before I got the deal I wanted. I think they just happy to get the floor space back.

Yep. same here. bought mine back in july. CPO for the win and 7 years of peace of mind (at least re. the major stuff).

 

[coleAK]

Is this just a Toyota and Lexus body on frame specific issue? Seems they can handle the harsh terrain and mountains of Afghanistan but not winter salt lol.
Could always get one from a rust free state and be diligent on fluid film, etc, but probably will be in the same situation?

Salt and wet is way worse then rocks, sand, and dry.

 

[mezger996]

Sorry, I failed to mention that I am only looking to spend around 40k for one. Plenty of options available but obviously a bit old for a warranty unless one comes up at Carmax or something. Just cannot justify spending much more than that on an older SUV.

 

[TLC2013]

Sorry, I failed to mention that I am only looking to spend around 40k for one. Plenty of options available but obviously a bit old for a warranty unless one comes up at Carmax or something. Just cannot justify spending much more than that on an older SUV.

That was my budget when i bought a 6 year old 200 with 80,000 miles. There are 3rd party warranties available but they do run a few thousand dollars which in all honesty probably wont be needed over that 3 to 5 years that it covers the truck.
Carmax's warranty and return policy does give some peace of mind. Buy it from them and then take the rig to the nearest dealer and have them go over with a fine tooth comb. Carmax will either get it repaired or will take the car back.

 

[mezger996]

Salt and wet is way worse then rocks, sand, and dry.

Yes, definitely understandable.....and I consider the LC/LX a FAR superior SUV to a Cayenne for instance. Though my buddy has his Cayenne up to 212k miles and zero rust, this was on a Midwest car as well. Not sure why Toyotas flagship SUV can’t survive as well

 

[coleAK]

Yes, definitely understandable.....and I consider the LC/LX a FAR superior SUV to a Cayenne for instance. Though my buddy has his Cayenne up to 212k miles and zero rust, this was on a Midwest car as well. Not sure why Toyotas flagship SUV can’t survive as well

Toyota (and Subaru) for some reason have never been able to figure out how to keep rust at bay. They just all rust…

 

[slipkid13]

Good morning,

I have posted some on the 100 series forums as I currently own a 2007 with around 194k on it. Runs very well and on top of maintenance, though lived its previous life in MN and WI. I have tried best I can to mitigate rust with annual fluid film.....while the frame is not rotten, I have some body rust under the rear bumper and rear fenders, has not reached the actual exterior yet. Over the last few years I have made some lower rocker repairs, etc. However, I have had to address AC line repairs, brake line repairs, AHC shocks, all due to rust and it is becoming frustrating. AHC lines/globes are still original, original control arms/ball joints, and original brake booster. It is either sell while still in good shape and running well, or invest $$ in a rusty vehicle and just drive it into the ground. It will need tires come spring time as well.

My other 2 vehicles are a 2001 911 turbo and a 2000 911 C4 cabriolet, so I am definitely used to repairs and some expensive bills from time to time, however they do not include any rust related issues, more so just repairs and maintenance.

While these cars are all paid for, I am considering trading the 100 for a newer 200 or LX for less BS and more piece of mind. Though I don't want to have to spend a bunch on maintenance right away. Possibly a 4 runner though I have been spoiled by the ride of the 100 Of course, I could get a Cayenne v6 or Diesel with CPO for mid 20s, but good luck post warranty. I would prefer to keep my SUVs Japanese due to reliability and cost of ownership.

Is it pretty safe owning a 200 or LX post warranty or is it more so a matter of purchasing from a rust free state with proper PPI? I absolutely love my 100 but the rust issues sure take away from the ownership experience. Any advice is appreciated.

A used car is still a used car and it will have issues even if it is 200series. I had an extended warranty on my 2013 LX when I bought it in 2019 with 64K miles. Paid for itself when the parking sensors went haywire and 3 needed to be replaced and the ECU. Then paid for itself again when the AC compressor failed, then again when one of the AHC lines failed and then again when my radiator failed.

Service history or not stuff breaks.

 

[Fisher23]

looking to spend around 40k

Myself I would look for a 2016+ as it has the LED lights and some other nice features.

There is a "newer" version of the radiator, plan on replacing it and a water pump if not done.
After market brakes are better than OEM.
Alternator goes out some times at 160K and best to replace when the radiator is out.
Any mechanic can replace these parts. (the alternator, rad and water pump parts are about $1100)
Plugs antifreeze were done at 100k

For rust look at detailed things like the bolts for the antilock sensors on the rear axel.

Look for one from a rust free state AND the car lived it's life in the rust free state. (many Florida and Arizona cars live in salt states like Ohio or New York)

The 200 is really nice and built really well.

There was a really nice grey one with bullet proofing that went for 40 to 50k on the auction just a little while back. It's on one of the threads.