Dizzy signal generator test FSM?

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Joined
Jul 18, 2011
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Location
Bayfield, in the San Juan Mtns. of Colorado
In the FSM it says I'm supposed to disconnect the pink and white wires to the dizzy and connect a AA battery across them to test the signal generator in the dizzy.

Ok. Did that. What's supposed to happen, because nothing did.
No clicks, flashing lights, voices of consolation from heaven. . . nothing.
It says I'm supposed to finish this test within 5 seconds, which I did. Why?

The other test for the signal generator came out within range.

I hate wiring. And ignition. Except when it works and I don't have to screw with it.
 
I think you're misreading the FSM. Or it is poorly translated into the Engrish.

The battery is applied to the signal wires into the igniter. It simulates the small voltage pulse made by the dissy. When the 1.5V battery is momentarily scratched against the leads, the coil should make a spark.

To test the signal generator, it should have ohms in a certain range, 140-180 IIRC. The number is not real critical. When they fail, they will be open circuit (many K-ohms) or shorted (2 ohms).
 
Ah. So then I'm not putting the battery across the leads going to the dizzy but across the leads to the igniter, right?
And then the I get a spark off the coil wire?

I'll check resistance on the SG.

Thanks
 
Ok. Did that got a spark, albeit rather weak and orange.
That's running the '85 GM 4 pin ignition module (Napa TP45) with a 1k ohm resistor on the yellow wire as described elsewhere and a Napa coil for a '72 chevy 350.
Get it all hooked up and no spark.
Dropped in one of your recurved dizzys (got it from Norsk), hooked everything up, no spark.

I replaced the GM module, no spark. Rewired from module to the dizzy, no spark.

Tomorrow I'm gonna get the Toy coil tested at Autozone as well as both the modules. I'll replace and try anything defective.
If either that doesn't work or everything checks out ok, not sure what I'll do. . . gotta re-think it.

Any suggestions as to how to get this to run with something other than the stock ignitor but retaining the stock dizzy?

Also, since I'm totally desmogged save for the PCV, could the emissions computer be causing the problem?
 
Not likely a problem, but do disconnect the tach output wire for the ignitor. It sends signal to both the tach and emiss computer. If that wire is accidentally grounded, then the spark is shut off.

There are only 3 components to the stock ignition system: coil, ignitor, sig generator.
Coil is easily tested per the FSM for resistance between various terminals. Also check for rust & oil leakage at can crimp.
SG is also easily tested for ohms/continuity.
Ignitor is harder to test, but if it has pulse from the dissy, full 12V from ignition, and a good ground, then with the other 2 components it should spark.

Do be sure that the coil and the ignitor are getting full battery voltage.
And ensure the ignitor ground wire shows good ground to the engine block.

FWIW, the failure order that I have seen is:
Coil
SG
ignitor (pretty much zero).
 
Which wire is the tach wire?

The ignitor was toast according to the FSM, don't recall the numbers but it was quite a ways off and I had no spark. As I recall the coil was a bit off but not by much, I'm going to re-check that. SG is within the range you mentioned before.

At this point I've got a Napa non-internal resistor coil for '70s era Chevy and Chrysler and a Napa TP45 GM 4 pin ignitor in it. there's a 1k ohm resistor attached to the yellow wire as per instructions found elsewhere on Mud.

The Brown and Yellow + Black terminals show battery voltage, the pink and white about 1.5v as I recall, which would jive with using a AA battery to test 'em. When I do the AA battery test with this setup I get a spark, albeit weak-ish.

I also have avaliable a Pertronix 45K volt coil, a Flamethrower II coil says 2510 on the bottom and is compatable with "CD box systems" according to the packaging. I tried that, no joy, might try it again.

Off to test the stock coil again.

Thanks.
 
Gave up, went to the junkyard where then have 3 FJ60s none of them now have coil/igitors as I bought 'em all. First one I bolted on worked.
Still hard starting cold. Not sure why.
 

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