DIY repair choke cable

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Joined
Nov 12, 2003
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Location
Truckee, CA
Read a few posts about broken choke cables and such. Thought I'd share my results in repairing.

1975 FJ40 "Peaches" the $800 budget wheeer (well... we're around $4k now)

Broken choke cable.
Removed the pull knob and what's left of the cable by simply... pullling.
Then put what was left of the cable in a vice and gave a good yank to remove from end of knob shank.
There's a small hole left in the pull knob shank. I drilled that out and drilled a couple little sideways holes.
Then scored some bike shifter cable.
I had to use a propane torch to burn off the teflon coating.
Cleaned cable with electric cleaner.
Insert in end of choke knob shank.
Solder.
Grind and wire wheel smooth.
Feed cable back into the housing still in dash.
Hooked back up to choke.

And in answer to your first question: yes I am a frugal bastard.

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Nice job, I feared I was heading down this path, not broken yet. We did the old seal the end if a rubber tube, fill it with WD40 put the cable all the way submerged and slide the knob in and out for a while till it is all cleaned out and moving freely. Now it moves like new, but I was afraid it was close to braking. Nice to know of a repair method now though.
 
Just acquired 81 fj40 and drove home 1000 miles. Choke cable good for test drive, a little sticky at start of return trip, following morning would not budge at all, not even the smallest bit, at the mounting ring in the dash where the knob comes out. Even looped knob with wire and tugged; not the slightest budge. Any ideas how this could happen? Choke operates fine on the carb (this was how started without choke cable) and the cable and housing look fine where they exit the firewall. Thanks, Paich
 
Nice fix I have my original, but need to repair mine as well to get back that “stock” look
 
Just acquired 81 fj40 and drove home 1000 miles. Choke cable good for test drive, a little sticky at start of return trip, following morning would not budge at all, not even the smallest bit, at the mounting ring in the dash where the knob comes out. Even looped knob with wire and tugged; not the slightest budge. Any ideas how this could happen? Choke operates fine on the carb (this was how started without choke cable) and the cable and housing look fine where they exit the firewall. Thanks, Paich

WD40

Lazy Man's Way To Smooth Cables
 
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Thanks for your response. Yes, I understand; I have cans of WD40 delivered weekly like the old milkman routine. Problem is the knob won't budge even a 1/16 in so can't get WD onto the knob shaft, much less the cable. I am thinking that joint where the wire rope part joins the shaft with the knob must have something sticking out or is somehow out of line so that it is blocking the shaft from sliding into its housing when the knob is pulled. Seems like you soldered that joint or some like attachment method, but I don't understand how the factory that made the cable did it.
 
Hey, You're back, been waiting to see your posts again. Someone said that you've been ill, if true hope you're recovering well.

Joseph

I try to keep my happenings organized in the General/miscellaneous forum. Yeah, I’ve just gotten over a nasty flu. Feeling pretty good now.
 
Thanks for your response. Yes, I understand; I have cans of WD40 delivered weekly like the old milkman routine. Problem is the knob won't budge even a 1/16 in so can't get WD onto the knob shaft, much less the cable. I am thinking that joint where the wire rope part joins the shaft with the knob must have something sticking out or is somehow out of line so that it is blocking the shaft from sliding into its housing when the knob is pulled. Seems like you soldered that joint or some like attachment method, but I don't understand how the factory that made the cable did it.
@paich, Did you ever figure this out? I've just acquired a '78 with an old aftermarket choke cable that is very sticky. Debating replacing it with something from SOR, but don't want to spend the $100 if I don't have to.
 
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