DIY Non-Nav Harness Extension (2 Viewers)

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This is also posted in the GXOR FB group. I'll link this over to the Non-Nav Conversion thread as well. Still trying to figure out how to link the circuit board files here, but they're available on the GXOR FB page under the files section.

Hopefully, this guide will help to create a simple and very reliable wiring extension that does not involve any cutting, soldering (save for the circuit board plug connections) or permanent modifications to your factory harness.
01 harness overview.jpg


1. Disclaimer​

I am providing this guide to assist others and for others to improve upon this design. It has not been widely tested, but it has been tested in 1 vehicle (at the time of writing) and works well. I am not an electrical engineer, nor am I certifying that this guide will provide you with a perfectly safe, problem-free article. I haven’t done a circuit board before this project. I think most people realize that this is a guide from a stranger downloaded from the internet. Treat it as an output of my hobby and use it at your own risk. I am not responsible for the design, content, safety, or your ability to wire or install this item.

2. Materials Needed to purchase/make
ItemQtyMFG PN#Purchase from
Circuit Board1See Gerber FilesPCBWAY etc.
80 Pin Board Connector2TYCO -1318751-7Mouser
30 Pin Connector2TYCO -1318758-1Mouser
26 Pin Connector2TYCO - 1746863-1Mouser
24 Pin Connector2TYCO -1746864-1Mouser
2 Pin Connector (M)1YAZAKI 7283102030Mouser
2 Pin Connector (F)1YAZAKI 7283102030Mouser
Power Pin30YAZAKI - 71164020Mouser
Signal Pin100TYCO - 1123343-1Mouser
Other Signal PinTYCO – 1674311-7Digikey
Power connector, Cig Lighter2YAZAKI - 71144020Mouser
Wire, 24 AWG, PVC320’ATLAS AWM24GN10Automation Direct
3D Print Cover2Su CASASu CASA

3. Tools Required/Making Life Easier
Wire cutter/ stripper – Must go down to 22 AWG – There is a nice set for small wires at Home Depot (Milwaukee) that are now my favorite pair.
Milwaukee 9 in. Multi-Purpose Cutting Pliers 48-22-6579 - The Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-9-in-Multi-Purpose-Cutting-Pliers-48-22-6579/305761219

Open Barrel Contact Crimper – Used Engineer PA-09 for making these contacts.
Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/ENGINEER-AWG32-AWG20-Connectors-Oil-Resistant-PA-09/dp/B002AVVO7K?th=1

NOTE: I tried simply using a set of needle nose to make these crimps at first, but the wings are tiny and difficult to form properly. Get the tool. You are going to do 164 crimping operations. Additionally, you will mess up a crimp and it will be difficult to slide into the tiny hole on the connector. If this happens, you will want a good crimp in there so you can pull it back out. There is nothing more frustrating than having to buy new connectors, wait for shipping, strip wires, and start over because a pin got stuck in the connector.

4. Circuit Board Instructions
LINK TO PRINT CIRCUIT BOARD AND 3D PRINT COVER FILES
ih8mud Print Circuit Board and 3d Print Cover files - Google Drive - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MTF468ickoIJjCU480zG5E8sXfW-gZGT?usp=sharing

4.1 Print Circuit Board
Go to PCBway.com (or similar)
Online Gerber Viewer - PCB Prototype the Easy Way - PCBWay - https://www.pcbway.com/project/OnlineGerberViewer.html
Upload LEXUS_EXTENDER_GERBERS.ZIP
Get a quote/order (use all the standard options)
It should be ~$25 for 5 (5 is the minimum order), most of this is $20 in shipping

4.2 Circuit Board Soldering
Attach the 80 pin connector to the PCB with one on top and one on the backside.
Secure the connector to the board with screws (I believe they are M2 or M3)
Put on your glasses or magnifier.
Solder each pin to the board (I recommend a fine-tipped soldering iron)
Check for bridging/ cold joints/ missed pins

5. 3D Printed Electrical Covers
Slice and print two of the STL files in your favorite insulating material that can withstand your under-dash environment. Remember that your heater blows in this area and it may get quite warm. If you don’t have a printer don’t worry! I am sure you have a friend with one, or choose some other insulation method!
The finished product should be two covers that look like the image below
02 3d print covers.jpg


6. Wiring Harness Instructions

Cut 80 wires into 4-foot lengths (can shorten if you want from the other writeups, but I wanted to ensure the wires would reach and allow plenty of room​

Strip Both ends of the wires back ¼”​

Crimp on connectors to both ends of wire, according to the table.​

KEEP THE SIGNAL WIRES SEPARATED AND IDENTIFIED. They look nearly identical but do not go into the connectors the same. Trying to insert the wrong signal ferrule into the wrong connector will be a problem. You can insert it with force but it won’t make a connection.

When crimping on the ferrules- one pair of tabs holds the insulation, and one pair is for the conductor. You may have to trim the conductor to get it to fit. The crimper should do a nice job of rolling the wings into the center of the wire strands. Check for strength of connection on each. (Give it a light pull to make sure it does not slide off).

I recommend doing the first few and putting them in the connector to make sure that your technique is correct. They should slide in, click, and not be able to pull out. (!WARNING! I haven’t found a tool or method to remove the wires that does not involve the destruction of the plastic connector. Make sure you’ve got the right connector! )
71164020
Power
1123343-1
Signal
1674311-7
Signal
71144020
Power
TYCO -1318758-1228
TYCO - 1746863-1620
TYCO -1746864-1420
YAZAKI 72831020302
YAZAKI 72831020302
Wire Assemblies to make​
142840See Inst
Totals x 2​
2856802

6.1 Insert the wires into the connector pairs
It is imperative that the wires go from and to the same location in the connector pairs. It’s an extender so it's not complicated, but it is tedious. I like to do this by holding the pair side-by-side and doing one wire at a time. L-R, Top-bottom.
Before inserting any wires into the connector, the “keeper” must be raised up to allow insertion. Raise the “keeper” by lifting up through the openings in the side of the connector. The keeper is typically raised on new plugs.

Check connector and ferrule are correct (see table)
Push the assembled wire in until it clicks.
Pull gently to make sure it is captive.
Repeat with the other end of the wire assembly.
Proceed one at a time to avoid miswiring

Once completed, push the “keeper” back into position to secure all the terminations
03 keeper guide.jpg


6.2 Cigarette adapter wiring
The illumination comes from the power-ground pair supplying the cigarette lighter bulb. We simply splice in the two wire connectors here to avoid cutting the factory harness.
  1. Cut the two wires (I know you just made them) approximately 18” back from the connectors you plan to use in the center dash. Keep the 18” end and remove the long end (the ends that will come from the kick panel)
  2. Cut and strip two 8” wires. We are going to splice the wires together within the crimp ferrule (to avoid soldering). Join the ends of one of the 8” pieces with one of the 18” wires and crimp them into one of the 71144020 ferrules. Repeat for the other 8” and 18” wire pair.
  3. Crimp 71164020 onto the remaining end of the 8” wire
Screenshot 2025-02-06 184752.jpg


05 ash tray connection overview.jpg
 
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06 ash tray plug detail.jpg


8. Assembly
Connect the 3 wiring assemblies to the circuit board. They should slide in nicely but require some force. Make sure the keeper is fully pushed in if they are difficult to insert.

Secure the covers on with the 6 screws. The covers are arranged as shown below. The screws should engage through the circuit board to the far side 80 pin connector.
07 circuit board overview.jpg


9. Testing
Plug the non-nav HVAC Control Unit directly into the factory harness (the plugs from the Factory Nav Amplifier Assembly Air Conditioner control module, the mustard-colored box in the passenger footwell) to ensure that the controls work correctly for your year model GX. Cycle thru all the HVAC functions to ensure that they work correctly and click the A/C mode to ensure that the AC Compressor engages. Also be sure that the air temp functions the same/similar for the passenger side and the drivers side.
08 testing harnness connection.jpg


Be aware if your GX build date is on a switch-over month, you may have to try the non-nav HVAC control part number before or after your production date. My GX is a 11-2004 build date and the first 88650-60771 control unit I purchased seemed fine when I was testing it on the passenger side, but after completely installing the non-nav harness and driving it around, it was only blowing max heat on the drivers side. I uninstalled it and plugged the non-nav HVAC Control Unit directly into the factory harness and determined the issue was with the Control Unit and not the Harness Extension. I took a chance and sourced a same part number 88650-60771 Control Unit and it works, otherwise I’d have to source a -60770.

Non-nav HVAC Control Unit part numbers for reference (from GXOR guide)

Build DateProduction Part NumberAdditional
11/2002 - 11/200488650-6077088650-60B50 for 03-04
11/2004 - 08/200588650-60771
08/2005 - 01/200688650-60772
01/2006 - 08/200988650-60773

Be sure to completely test the Harness Extension with your non-nav HVAC Control Unit before you route the Harness Extension to install, cycling thru all the functions and ensuring the AC compressor engages. You can also test the Ash Tray connection for the non-nav HVAC Control Unit button illumination and screen dimming mid-installation unless you’re able to reach the connectors with the factory navigation/radio stack still installed.

10. Installation
Before disconnecting factory navigation, be sure to set the sound bal/fade back to default if you’re planning on reusing the Mark Levinson factory amp. I turned the volume up to 35, though probably could’ve been ok with 20 or so. The stereo receiver I went with after the swap I barely turn up past level 10-15.
09 volume setting.jpg


To install the Harness Extension, begin by plugging into the mustard box and routing the 3 separate wire looms below the AC blower fan in the lower dash panel and then route up to the center to plug into the non-nav HVAC Control Unit. I fed them thru one at a time and wrapped it with electrical tape to make it easier to feed thru the structural brackets. I coiled the extra wire length and used it to help pad the circuit board until I was able to source the 3d printed circuit board enclosure.
PXL_20241126_002523436.jpg
 
PXL_20241126_002433973.jpg

PXL_20241126_002530090.jpg


Finished install prior to radio install
PXL_20241030_031523139.jpg


For my radio install, I used a local stereo shop to add the new backup camera, but other parts that helped finish the install are:

Axxess TYTO-01 wiring interface
Axxess ASWC-1 steering wheel control adapter
Metra 95-8166G dash kit (gray trim bezel that matches the non-nav HVAC controls)
Metra 88-00-9000 dash kit (dash pocket under stereo if using a single DIN stereo)
Metra 70-8114 steering wheel control harness

For the stereo, I went with a Sony XAV-AX8100 and I had the stereo shop route the USB plug for my phone into the dash pocket for an easier connection.
PXL_20241031_221441138.jpg
 
Agreed, exceptional thread and skill to get this to work out! Makes me want to consider ditching my PX6 and going this route instead.
 
Appreciate it. Majority of the credit for this goes to my buddy who figured out all the part numbers and is more skilled at the circuit board and 3d printing than me, along with the excellent write ups in the Non-Nav conversion thread and GXOR FB group.
 
How much alcohol did you consume when you were finished? I had to pour a drink after reading through this thread! Outstanding work!
 
Where did you buy your harness 😎 if I see more than 2 wires my mind explodes just a mechanical engineer no sparky lol
If you read the other thread about nav to non nav conversion all your questions will be answered. It’s long but well worth your time. A forum member named Eldar makes the harnesses, but I’m not sure he still does. His contact information is in the other thread. That thread also contains all part numbers necessary and really everything you need. Tips, tricks, photos, etc.
 
If you read the other thread about nav to non nav conversion all your questions will be answered. It’s long but well worth your time. A forum member named Eldar makes the harnesses, but I’m not sure he still does. His contact information is in the other thread. That thread also contains all part numbers necessary and really everything you need. Tips, tricks, photos, etc.
Elder just made me a harness; it took about four months from our initial conversation but its quality work and plug n’ play.
 
Elder just made me a harness; it took about four months from our initial conversation but its quality work and plug n’ play.
which thread is that? I need to finish the swap but I'm scared of wires. The controls are staring at me in the garage lol
 
which thread is that? I need to finish the swap but I'm scared of wires. The controls are staring at me in the garage lol
 

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