DIY: Installing a Part-Time 4WD Transfer Case Spool (2 Viewers)

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Thanks, Phil! Do you remove the viscous coupler when you part-time the case? Why or why not?

Yes required on the 80 but no VC on a 100 series. That should tell one something also arguably the most failed part of a late model 80 tcase.
 
Thanks, Phil! Do you remove the viscous coupler when you part-time the case? Why or why not?

We remove them by default. In this case, you are removing the diff, so what purpose would a viscous coupler serve? Doing all of that work and not putting in crawler gears? :confused:
 
just beat out old race and beat in new one, use the old race to beat in the new one, listen to the sound it makes, that tone will change when race is fully seated

Placing the race in the freezer over night will help a little on install. I remember the first time I installed one I was just tapping it so freezing it helped. Now I just hit it harder. Also the Harbor Frieght bearing and race installer kit is well worth the money if you don’t have one. Brass drift is also a good thing to have.

Thank you, gentlemen. After a good night's sleep, and fresh set of eyes, I swapped the race quite easily. Just tapped it out with a brass drift and it slid right out. I also used the freezer trick for the new race and it was a breeze it install. Thanks!!!

Yes required on the 80 but no VC on a 100 series. That should tell one something also arguably the most failed part of a late model 80 tcase.

Boom! VC out! Getting that snap-ring off was a b*tch.


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We remove them by default. In this case, you are removing the diff, so what purpose would a viscous coupler serve? Doing all of that work and not putting in crawler gears? :confused:

I know! I really want crawler gears, but I'm on a budget. Eventually I'll do a diesel 5-speed swap. When I do the conversion, I'll do overdrive hi and underdrive lo gears for the t-case.
 
Looks like you were using snap ring pliers to remove the lock ring. Tip for next time, go pick up a set of $12 lock ring pliers and it will make removing those a breeze!
 
Boom! VC out! Getting that snap-ring off was a b*tch.

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81-CD80-E2-31-F8-4961-A241-367-A23059-BF1.jpg

For next time -
Looks like by the picture you used the wrong tool for the job, less than a minute with duckbill pliers:)
What do you use to remove the c-clip off the end of the axle?
 
Looks like you were using snap ring pliers to remove the lock ring. Tip for next time, go pick up a set of $12 lock ring pliers and it will make removing those a breeze!

For next time -
Looks like by the picture you used the wrong tool for the job, less than a minute with duckbill pliers:)
What do you use to remove the c-clip off the end of the axle?

The nose of my duckbill pliers was too big. The snap ring pliers were the only things that would fit down in there.

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They worked great on my hub install though!
 
...
I know! I really want crawler gears, but I'm on a budget. ...

They are what, $400? Compared to the other silliness, relatively inexpensive and more effective.
 
Is it 27 or 28? I’m just not sure what the component is called. “Bearing Retainer”?

I guess it depends on what FSM you look at? I just checked the '96 LX450 and it calls for 29ft/lb.:hillbilly: We never take that part off.
 
I guess it depends on what FSM you look at? I just checked the '96 LX450 and it calls for 29ft/lb.:hillbilly: We never take that part off.

Im going with 28 per the picture but I would be 100% comfortable at 27

I’ll split the difference and call it 28ft/lb.

Thanks for all the help guys. I’ve got to stop here for today. But I’ll hopefully be able to wrap everything up tomorrow.
 
I’ll split the difference and call it 28ft/lb.
...

Just find it mildly entertaining that 3 FSMs call out 3 differing specs, even better, the '96 calls for 29 in the breakdown and 28 in the specification section. I thing it's saying, almost, but not quite 30!:hillbilly:
 
I am royally pissed. I bought a GTE dispenser gun specifically for applying Toyota FIPG to the machined surfaces because I'm OCD about the application.

Opened up the gun, read the directions, and loaded a fresh tube of Toyota 1281 FIPG. The POS gun just ratchets the rolled seal off the back of the tube, rather than dispensing any sealant. I went through two tubes trying to get it to work.

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At this point I'm debating whether I should wait and order the Permatex "caulk gun" style dispenser and use Permatex "Gear Oil" RTV, or just put on the Toyota FIPG by hand. The problem with the Toyota FIPG is that I'm so slow dispensing it by hand and I make a huge mess. It starts setting up before I can get all the way around the t-case.
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Do any other Permatex products work on the transfer case? I can get the canister style Permatex Black, Grey, and Red tubes locally for the caulk gun. Just not the Green "Gear Oil" RTV.

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permatex-grey.jpg

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Never mind. I found the correct Permatex and gun locally.

At the 26:13 mark the YouTube mechanic talks about the “small shim” and “big shim” for the pump drive. I swear my case only had one shim. Should I be searching my garage floor for a second shim? Or did some come with only one pump shim?
 

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