DIY Engine Mount Replacement

[TeCKis300]

As 200-series are getting up there in age and miles, here's my attempt to provide some notes on how to replace engine mounts. If you're over 200k miles, you can pretty much count on these being shot. If you're towing heavy or running hard with lots of weight, might want to get these replaced before 175k. In my quest to replace all bushings, these were by far the most worn (rubber practically gone), even compared to those in the suspension. Rear upper UCAs take the second spot of hardest worn bushings, at least in my use with lots of off-road, 33, 35 and 37s tires for most of it's life, and towing an 8k travel trailer.

No, the engine won't fall out as the mounts are captive. Predominant symptom is a remote thud at your feet when taking off from a stop. Drivetrain may show some slop on 1-2 shifts in dynamic load situations. Especially if creeping uphill. Others have reported poor overall NVH and ride quality suffering. Here's a great thread on general discussion

Thread 'Failed motor mounts - URJ200 - Anyone had it happen?'

Feb 5, 2019

We've been through quite a few in the Canguro Racing 200 Series, to the point we eventually went to hard mounts for the engine and transmission mount.

BUT, how many other failed engine mounts have you experienced or seen?

• cruiseroutfit
• Replies: 70
• Forum: 200-Series Cruisers

• 

There are 3 mounts, two flanking the motor. And a rear 3rd one holding up the transmission. My 3rd mount was still in great condition - bushing looked great with like new stiffness. So it's optional, but easy enough to replace so I won't focus on that component in this write-up.

Part numbers and relative prices. I got these for excellent prices during a sale.

Drivers side mount is reported as the one that works harder (for most). But if you're engine braking a lot, don't ignore the passenger side as mine was even more shot on that side. Best to replace these in pairs as they work together.

Here's what my drivers side looked like compared to new. Note the stud - it was missing almost all rubber potting and freely spun. New one is solidly potted in.

Passenger side (right) was even worse, and practically metal on metal. I attribute this to heavy engine braking use.

 

[TeCKis300]

FSM calls for engine removal. Not necessary. But this isn't exactly an easy job. 3.5 out of 5 bananas on my scale. Count on 2-4 hours per side. AHC plumbing is there but didn't really make things harder IMO. Note I have a .75" body lift but not sure that makes any difference.

Work will be primarily through the wheel wells. Might need to work underneath to sneak out the engine mounts (more on this).

Pre-requisite - super handy to have this long-handle wrench set for leverage and reach.

https://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-metric-highly-polished-long-handle-combination-wrench-set-47067.html

Here's what the two mounts look like deep along the sides of the engine.

Removal​

1. Get front end on jack stands
2. Remove front wheels
3. Remove lower skid plates
4. Remove wheel well front and rear fender aprons / covers
5. Remove clips holding lines (brake and AHC) above the frame to give more working room flexibility. Remove the clip securing lines aft in the wheel well too.

7. Remove the IIRC 17mm (or 19mm?) nut holding the engine mount stud to the block mount adapter. Clearances are really tight and can't really get a socket wrench onto the nut with the engine coolant drain bung in the way. The long handle wrench linked above will work if you play with flipping and angles. A ratcheting wrench will also help once it's broken loose.

(note I did not have to remove or touch the 4 bolts on the block mount adapter)

8. Remove two 14mm bolts holding mount to frame.

Jacking Engine​

9. Undo radiator fan shroud but removing two 12mm (IIRC) at each upper corner. This will allow the shroud to float as the engine fan gets jacked up
10. Setup jack to lift from the upper aluminum oil pan at this position. I used a bottle jack I had handy, but the factory mechanical bottle jack will work fantastic for this and will give you some good feel if you're pushing against something hard. Use a block of wood to spread the load on the pan.

11. Jack slowly and check often, particularly the fan blades. There's an EVAP line that right above the suspension tower that may need to be unclipped temporarily. You'll need to lift more than expected, but it will lift and clear the stud.

12. Removing the large mount might be a game. Remove it through the back, by removing the heat shield near the u-joint Might need to loosen diff mounts if working on the drivers side. As I was refreshing the suspension, UCAs actually come out pretty easy too and it'll sneak by the shock tower.

Rinse, repeat for the passenger side.

I jacked from the upper pan but nearer the passenger side

 

[TeCKis300]

Re-assemble​

New might might take raising the motor just a tad more as the studs won't have play. If necessary, one could probably grind the new mounts down just a tad (with nut threaded) but be careful not to damage the threads.

Torque values here:

 

[Dayhiker]

I'm at 205k miles and due to tackle this. Thank you very much for the guide!

 

[open country]

This is great tech, much appreciated. Are the part numbers the same for 08-21 and LC/LX?