Disaster - head IS cracked... (1 Viewer)

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A VW/Audi overhead cam tool (sometimes w/ a few mods) works well for most of these head types.

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honk said:
Ummm, what's that inspection product brandname? :flipoff2:
Yep, there is a company named Magnaflux, and a process named Magnaflux. The Magnaflux process is still applicable only to ferris materials. Not too hard to remember.
 
Does the OBDII have any internal power or chips that keep any permanent history that Doug (or any of us) could access to find the maximum temperature our trucks has ever been? It seems unlikely but I thought I'd ask anyway.
 
IdahoDoug said:
... snip ..
As for a new bare head, yes you'll need to also pay someone to swap your valves and install the seals as well as do a valve adjustment (means the shop has to have shims around, or you pay $$ to get them). After that I don't know if the cams would then go right on, or if the cam journals need to be matched to your cam. Dunno. Assuming the cams just swap, the work I just mentioned would likely run several hundred dollars as you can't just use a spring compressor because the springs are recessed so far. You need to use a press with a tool that has a magnetic dealy-bop that retrieves the retainers once the springs are compressed. Times 24, that shop time adds up.

So, that $1000 bare head might be $1400 by the time you had the valves, seals and cams on, plus shipping from Dan ($100?). Still worth it for peace of mind I suppose if the old head showed other signs of distress like warping or sealing surface pitting, etc.

...snip ...

DougM

Thanks Doug, that was in the insight I was looking for. The work does add up plus factor in the risk assuming that the rebuilder has never worked on this motor before.
 
MH_Stevens said:
Does the OBDII have any internal power or chips that keep any permanent history that Doug (or any of us) could access to find the maximum temperature our trucks has ever been? It seems unlikely but I thought I'd ask anyway.

Not that I know of and I have checked. My OBD-II scanner cannot pull up any "history" readings.

Greddy makes a temp gauge that keeps a peak temp in memory as long as it has 12v power.

-B-
 
Riley,

I also assumed the bare head would have valve guides, which also require shop time to be pressed in and matched to your valve stems with some reaming/boring I believe.

Did not get to the block flatness. Major house cleaning, boat covering/winterizing/storing stuff and a rockin' 43 mile road ride. Crested the highest hill on the route (low gear grinder alternating sit/stand) and just about skidded to get stopped before a 100 yard ice sheet on the shady side. We both just about fell twice.

Now school board meeting in 45 minutes. Does it ever end??

DougM
 
Cracked Head and Re-build

Also, I'm installing a block heater I got from Cdan as I can basically stand there with my knees against the block at the moment. The 93 has one and it's kinda nice to use once in a while.


BAS-tard!!! :D

I've been looking all over creation for some aftermarket add on I could throw onto Truckasaurus. :mad:

Please spill P/N and cost detail. Share brief install detail...I'll catch the rest on your DVD with a :beer: and some :popcorn: .

I think I'll have to go to chat to start a block heater thread...see whats out there. (I swear there was a German outfit in the early '90's that made a vacuum insulated canister that held a mixture that retained heat for days... can't find a syllable about them today. :doh: )

Maybe do a search, though that hasn't worked all that well for me...

Anyway, thanks for all the sharing. When is your beast gonna be all bolted back together?
 
Whew. 4 hour meeting.

I think the block heaters Dan found are around $35 and I think he only has one left. These are the factory jobbies. They're a 1 banana install. You either meticulously drill and pull a freeze plug, or you take a punch and knock it into the block. When I installed the 93's back in 93 I started out with good intentions on the former and ended up doing the latter. A Toyota Master Mech. told me the plug will just fall into the block and sit there causing no problems. He was right. You can also try to hit one side of the plug and rotate it until you can grab an edge with pliers and pull it out.

The beast will be bolted back together 8 hours after I get the head back. Should be Monday afternoon when I get the head, though I've resolved NOT to call the shop and bug them in any way. Something tells me that the magic I've got going with them will be dispelled if I do and I've listened to this voice before with good results. I'll probably get it half done Monday evening, and finish Tuesday morning. Then I'm going to hook up the boat and redline it up the nearest pass with the parking brake on.

DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
Then I'm going to hook up the boat and redline it up the nearest pass with the parking brake on.

DougM


Bwahahahahaha, now that's funny! :D
 
Doug,

I'd be interested to know the miles on your truck when the failure occurred, the miles when you bought it and how confident you were of the PO's maintenance.

Thanks
 
Bought at 132k, drivetrain and engine maintenance looked good based on oil change stickers and evidence of grease where it should be but cooling system looked like it had been neglected at some point. It had a non Toyota radiator, old hoses and some pitting on the block water pipe but came to me full of fresh Toyota Red.

Around 139,000 I confirmed the coolant in the oil. Interestingly, the HG was cracked but not yet leaking when I opened it up. I suspect the crack I'm now repairing on the head was the leak all along.

DougM
 
Story of my freakin' life. The shop is out of the special aluminum threaded plug size he wants to use on my head. I'm not complaining here, but when I commit to doing a job I at least take a minute to ensure I have what I need on hand. By the time they touch it, they'll have had the head for 6 days due to this oversight. Guess that's the downside of working with a shop that only takes high end work without tight deadlines - they build stuff over weeks and have plenty of notice.

In the mean time, I'm going to install the block heater and install a clever cloth heat wrap on the engine harness next to the EGR valve.

DougM
 
Doug- sorry to hear of the delay, but at least you know it will be done right when all is put together. No excuse for the oversight, though. Would you mind posting some details and pics of this cloth heat wrap for the engine harness? I've been considering doing something similar and I'd feel safe following your lead. :cheers:
 
Yeah, I will. I meant to say the heat wrap kit is clever - not me. It's a NAPA product that's sold to protect a spark plug lead and boot, so it's a tube of some Nomex-like 1200 degree insulation that looks like it will fit perfectly around the harness and the flexiness is perfect. I'll slit it and use a couple copper wire ties to hold it in place. I'll also put this on the head DVD since it's such a piece of cake to access the wire like this....

DougM
 
Chris,

I'm going to put it together after the truck's reassembled, with the idea that it will be shipping before the holidays. I will post here when it's available.

DougM
 

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