(Dim?) Wit's End

[jblueridge]

Another manual anomaly.
I have a horn relay in its own little plastic bracket up near the clutch pedal.
Wiring diagram does not show a relay at all.

 

[cruiserdan]

The 13BT engine manual may have more specific info. Mine is a PDF and it is on my computer back home in Albuquerque.

 

[ozcrusier]

The main harness is in two pieces under bonnet and the cabin half you need to locate that plug as it's a connection between power to ignition. The plug will be in the cabin side near where the main loom go' through the fire wall.

 

[sved]

Do you have a power outlet box located in the engine room ? You can check some 24v connections there.It is a black square box.
ACC
IGN
+B

f you don't have 24V on the ACC and IGN it is clear that you do not get 24V to the keyswitch Which could mean that the white fusible link is not supplying 24v to the ACC .
Your horn switch is grounded on the steering column .

Check the diesel section ,i added a wiring diagram for your horn

 

[jblueridge]

Here's the latest.

Dome light, stop/brake lights and horn/hazard fuses are getting power when the key switch is Off.
With the key switch on ACC, those 3 circuits and the Cig lighter and Door have power at their fuses.
When the key switch is turned to Run, all of those circuits lose power at their fuses.
None of the other circuits in the fuse box have power with any key switch position.

I had taken the Aux power outlet box out of the engine bay months ago.
I checked the plug's connections. I don't know which wire is which but one had constant power, a second on came on with the key switch on ACC. Both of those circuits show no voltage when the key switch is on Run.

I unplugged the key switch and tested wires. The black wire, which I think is the power from the battery, shows no voltage. The black with red stripe wire has 24.8 volts. The others have no voltage at all.

I went back to the fusible links. All show power getting through from battery.

 

[cruiserdan]

Is that a new ignition switch?

 

[jblueridge]

Yes, new switch. Looks exactly like the original.

 

[jblueridge]

I was frustrated and I went to the battery to check for current draw. I removed the leads from the battery positive and placed the ammeter in line, in series. Only a tiny current draw.... 3ma.
I switched the meter to measure volts. I got 24.7 volts across both batteries with no leads connected. When I connected fusible links and again measured across battery terminals, the voltage was less, down to 22V. Removing that lead brought the voltage back up to 24.7.

I don't know if that is significant.

 

[cruiserdan]

With fully charged batteries that seems to me to be a fairly significant draw. Can you connect the fuse link legs individually to see what one drops it?

 

[jblueridge]

I can if I whip up a little pigtail + quick disconnect.
I'll try this evening.

 

[coldtaco]

Maybe you got the new switch wired wrong?

 

[jblueridge]

The new switch is plug and play. Not possible to plug it in the wrong way.
Old switch shows same behaviors.

 

[jblueridge]

With fully charged batteries that seems to me to be a fairly significant draw.

Dan, do you mean the 3 milliamp draw seems significant or the strange voltage drop? Both.

I made up a test lead that allowed me to isolate which wire connection causes the voltage drop. This voltage drop is extra strange to me because I am just holding the voltmeter leads across the batteries.
The white "ignition" wire is the one causing the drop in voltage when the starter switch is in the Run position.
This is with the main cable to the starter not connected, nor the red or black wires and their fusible links.

Measuring voltage across both batteries.

Test lead connected to white ignition wire only.
The 12V converter circuit breaker is not connected to its relay at this time. It is disabled.

 

[jblueridge]

I am admitting defeat!
Waiting now for a wrecker truck to haul it to a cruiser aficionado's repair shop.

 

[chappohj47]

I put in a new plug and play ignition switch and if you turned the key to glow it would crank the motor and turn on lights. So I put the old one back in it

 

[jblueridge]

My new switch behaves like the old one.
I did the continuity tests as outlined in the 13BT manual.

 

[61Mk+]

Have you had your battery load-tested?

 

[jblueridge]

Yes. I load tested them (2 x 12V) with an old school resistance load tester. Meter read "Good"
Also, my space-age battery charger that can detect defects found none.

 

[peterb]

That has to be frustrating. Hope you get it sorted!

 

[jblueridge]

Mechanic reports that the battery cable that connects the two is faulty.
It won't carry any load of electricity.
This is very odd becase I had all new cables made last week.
So either BOTH cables old and new are bad, or more than one thing is going on.

Starter works now but no dash lights. Engine quickly dies.
I told him about the vacuum shutter valve/ switch.