Differential rebuild

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Joined
Jul 25, 2006
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Location
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I think I need to rebuild both my differentials, loose pinion, etc. Should I give it a shot myself and regear at the same time, or should I just spend the extra $185 per diff and have Cruiser Outfitters do it for me?
 
I'm a skeptic when it comes to my own gear-setting abilities. Take the pumpkins to someone who knows how to do it and you won't get stranded. Besides, having the right tools can save expensive bearings. No need to replace something that isn't broken, but you will never get the pinion bearing off without a really good puller.
 
specialty tools

you'll be needing special pullers in order to replace pinion and carrier bearings.pinion depth should also be checked prior to setting gear back lash and all of this require some skill in order to get it right.paying somebody or a shop to do it is worth it. john
 
COST???

I just under went a horrible situtation. I had someone put a completely new rear end in my truck and it did not fix the problem

How much does it usually cost to check the settings and put new seals and bearings in a rear end at a decent shop.
 
I just under went a horrible situtation. I had someone put a completely new rear end in my truck and it did not fix the problem

How much does it usually cost to check the settings and put new seals and bearings in a rear end at a decent shop.
You normally can find someone to set the (rebuilt) the rear 3rd for 200 /250 bucks.

What is your rig doing?
 
Problem

It was and is know has a loud noise/ small vibration coming from the rear end. Two people told me that rear end was worn out. Needed to get a new on.

The noise only comes in at 30 to 60 mph. I am going to get my drive shaft off take it to a shop and have them check the shaft and the u-joints. I am also going to drive the truck with out the rear hooked up and see what it will do.
 
It was and is know has a loud noise/ small vibration coming from the rear end. Two people told me that rear end was worn out. Needed to get a new on.

The noise only comes in at 30 to 60 mph. I am going to get my drive shaft off take it to a shop and have them check the shaft and the u-joints. I am also going to drive the truck with out the rear hooked up and see what it will do.
Tell yea what WHY DON'T YOU;) drop the rear drive shaft and drive it in 4 hi around the block to see if the noise goes away. Many NORMAL folk don't know there ass in a hole in the ground when it comes to cruisers(non-owners....nothing personal to them).

And look to see if the pinion flange is leaking( that is where the drive shaft connects to the rear third..or rear end).

And yes these things (differential) have to be set just right and you must do the proper break in period. Did the shop ADVISE you of the proper "break in period "?
 
It was and is know has a loud noise/ small vibration coming from the rear end. Two people told me that rear end was worn out. Needed to get a new on.

The noise only comes in at 30 to 60 mph. I am going to get my drive shaft off take it to a shop and have them check the shaft and the u-joints. I am also going to drive the truck with out the rear hooked up and see what it will do.

*Edit* Whoops, I misread your post and thought you said 30 AND 60 mph. Oh well, here are some thoughts anyway...

That sounds like the vibrations I got right after my OME install. I would get a strong vibe @ 40km/h and 80 km/h and a weak vibe at 60km/h. I attributed it to vibration caused by changing the angle/arc that the U-joints travel through (thus, needing to "break in" again). I suspect the speed dependancy stemed from harmonics in the springs that coincided with the produced vibration at those speeds.

It went away after a few months. Not saying that is what it is in your situation (or mine for that matter) but it seems I was aware of this before the install, so I *think* it is a reasonable guess.

The fact that is comes at certain speeds (which are harmonic, i.e. 60 is double 30) tells me that it is the natural frequency of something amplifying the vibration.....
 
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I am in SC. I already got a spare complete rear end. I may send someone off to rebuild it. Thanks for the links cruiser 88.
 
get some gear marking compound or prussian blue

You can run the pattern and have us verify it for you if you like..

Should cost about $20 with a new gasket and diff oil..

btw, is your driveshaft in phase? (both yokes on the same plane)
 
*Edit* Whoops, I misread your post and thought you said 30 AND 60 mph. Oh well, here are some thoughts anyway...

That sounds like the vibrations I got right after my OME install. I would get a strong vibe @ 40km/h and 80 km/h and a weak vibe at 60km/h. I attributed it to vibration caused by changing the angle/arc that the U-joints travel through (thus, needing to "break in" again). I suspect the speed dependancy stemed from harmonics in the springs that coincided with the produced vibration at those speeds.

It went away after a few months. Not saying that is what it is in your situation (or mine for that matter) but it seems I was aware of this before the install, so I *think* it is a reasonable guess.

The fact that is comes at certain speeds (which are harmonic, i.e. 60 is double 30) tells me that it is the natural frequency of something amplifying the vibration.....

i just put in a ome heavy and have the same problem harmonics at about 30 mph. weird!!!!!!

x2 on checking tooth contact it will confim the proper set up of gears and you can see if there is any ring gear tooth damage as well
 

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