Difference between 3B H55F and others?

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Dec 7, 2019
North Carolina, USA
I am putting together Ideas for a future swap. Intention is to have it all figured out before moving forward. Right now I have a BJ73 in this state: 3BII with turbo that is once again weeping oil from the turbo, power is barely acceptable on the highway and you have to watch the EGT guage, H55F tranny, and Transfer case needs to be gone through/has noise.

Swap I am considering is BMW M57. There are adapters to go from M57 to toyota R series tranny's in the 3 and 3.4L trucks, as well as adapters for JP AX 15 and others. I'm not seeing anything for H55F. I believe I've read on these forums that the bolt pattern 3B-Bellhousing is the same as other Toyota's but the H55 input shaft is quite different..................................One common way of dealing with this in a swap is to use pressure plate for flywheel on new engine with clutch disc from old setup that fits tranny input shaft, Utilize a pilot bearing sized to new measurments. This is easy to understand. Not sure how to deal with significant length differences.

Can someone tell me how the H55F input shaft for 3B is different from others?

Since my Tcase is already needing service it would likely be cheaper to buy a used R15XF and Tcase from another vehicle if I do this swap, but Unless getting it from another LC I think the trucks are left side drop and not right side drop for the Tcase. I don't want a full time case. I also have heard the the H55f (I have) is probably the strongest toyota 5 speed.

What Toyota 4wd vehicles have the right side drop needed on the LC?

I realize there are many options for swaps. I love the M57 in my BMW. They are around $3K complete with accessories on Ebay (UK and DE) right now. Wiseman engineering out of UK sells a reflashed ECU and stand alone wiring adapter for a very reasonable price. This swap has become popular in EU into land rovers, pajeros, and Patrols. It will likely overtake the MB OM606 swaps in popularity due to it being likely a stronger engine and becoming more available....................
No one has replied to this yet. I've been searching in a variety of places. Putting together bits of information from other threads and places.

What I gather about h55f input shafts and bellhousings:. B series input shaft is longer, finer splines, and a smaller diameter shaft tip. I believe the engine to bell housing bolt pattern to be the same across Toyota.

If this is correct then a adapter plate for a 3.4 v6 by would bolt to the h55. A spacer plate can make up for the longer input shaft. Order to measurement pilot bearing. 3b h55 clutch disc with pressure plate for flywheel. Lengthen clutch slave to fork rod.
H55 and R series transmission patterns are completely different.
Hi, did you manage to do the conversation?
Conversion is way to the back burner/out of the picture. ...........I have really bad ears. At the time I was putting serious brainpower/research on this swap I had a terrible whine I thought was gear noise, and a poor performing and smoking engine....As it turns out the turbo bearing was shot and the whine was from the turbo. Rebuilt turbo installed and a new free flowing crossover pipe without intercooler. All of a sudden I had 24PSI boost full, throttle no more whine, and I'm satisfied with how she runs. I tied my former intercooler heat exchannger parrallel to the cooling system(Geo metro radiator, under my roof rack, with 1/2 copper lines running to it up the outside of the snorkel). Now I can run 70mph with the AC on in the summer without the engine heating up..............The extra radiator under the roof rack is a viable option for anyone pushing a 70 beyond intended limits and having trouble with heat buildup. 1" spacer between the rear hood hinge and hood gives room for lines to exit and run up along the snorkel.

Today I"m having a bit of trouble getting it out of 3rd gear. Perhaps my late night repair/fabrication of some shifter retainer parts that broke a year ago have given out, or perhaps worse? Landcruiser activity is on the backburner now.
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I admire your approach. Just send it. :rofl:

Are you keeping it at 24psi?
Have you retarded timing?

So you used the geo metro radiator for your heat exchanger?

My boost is stock settings on the HE221 and 18psi. Not really wanting to push more without intercooling it.
I posted a lot about my truck elsewhere you can read about the turbo etc. I don't want to Bogart J's thread here. Whether an engine survives is most related to your right foot. Real empirical data is incredibly valuable and often in short supply. By this I mean people who will tell you what they actually did and how their engine blew. Lots of people will tell you a recommendation based on how they feel about something. High speed highway miles are the biggest stress to your LC. Proper fluid , levels a good strong cooling system, and monitor your gauges in direct proportion to the pressure from your right foot.
I admire your approach. Just send it. :rofl:

Are you keeping it at 24psi?
Have you retarded timing?

So you used the geo metro radiator for your heat exchanger?

My boost is stock settings on the HE221 and 18psi. Not really wanting to push more without intercooling it.
I had another post for about 30 minutes but I thought I was on someone else's thread so I kept it short.

Td04-12 turbo has its wastegate wired shut. If I hold it to the floor in third or fourth gear for a long high revving acceleration it will creep from 20 to 24 PSI. Normal accelerations about 15 to 17. Normal 55 to 60 Cruise is about 10 psi 65 to 70 about 12 PSI. My engine has in less then 15,000 miles a new aluminum radiator a new head and an in frame rebuild that included cerecoating the Piston domes with their heat reflective ceramic. Which in my testing reduces heat transfer by 25 degrees Fahrenheit after 10 seconds exposure to blowtorch.

Three B's managed to push 1 ton Dyna trucks, and 20 ft coaster buses we should be a lot more stress on the 3B than a Land cruiser. Those two vehicles also have a huge front end with lots of airflow and space for a big radiator. Another thread on the forum someone did a Cummins r 2.8 conversion and had heat issues on the highway that was alleviated with a 17 inch radiator fan. I have a 17 inch high flow radiator fan and an extra radiator paralleled into my cooling system.

The Geo Metro radiator is something I had on hand in the garage. It went from an experimental aircraft I used to fly, to heat exchanger duty, and then when I removed the inner core it's now paralleled in to the heater lines increasing my engine's cooling capacity. Now on a 90° plus day with the AC on at 65 plus mile per hour the temp gauge stays under 1/3 of the way to hot. Egts are perhaps 25 to 30° less as well.

It's hard to get good empirical data. Most people won't post "I did this and blew my engine". There are a ton of people that will tell you how they feel about it based on what other people say they feel about it.

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