Diff Lock ECU Cycle Times

[Squash]

Has anyone had this problem?

Brand new rear locker.
Bench tests well with 9volts
Plugged in OEM and with Rotary RR activation the locker tries to engage/disengage but needs help from a pry bar!
Note: Shift fork slides easily when disconnected.

So I take it out, grease the shaft, re- install and run it through many cycles using #1 and #2 with a battery,works like a charm... almost instantly.

Great right, wrong, plugged in it wants to work, but seems like the power on/off cycle with rotary to ecu is to short, therefore not allowing full spring wind up in either direction.

Have a new to me ecu coming via mail, but in the meantime I'm open to suggestions.

End Cap:
New locker
Wiring works
Shift fork easy to move when disconnected
Works like a charm using a battery to #1 and #2 and shift fork connected.
Wants to work when connected to OEM wiring harness but needs help in either direction.

BTW: Greasing the shaft end really increased the speed of locking/unlocking, did this just because the original locker shaft looked like new but shaft was dry.

 

[landcrshr]

Have you tried measuring the voltage across the actuator motor while trying to engage it?
My guess is it is low.

Also measure the voltage at the output of the diff-lock ECU
If it is low there, then I would suspect the ECU.

If it is OK at the ECU output, but low at the motor end, then you have a bad connection in between.

There are three connectors in between the ECU and the diff.
I would inspect the ones under the vehicle first, where corrosion is most likely.