Destroyed my front brakes (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 2, 2005
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Location
Madrid, Spain
As a heavenly punishment for what I wrote about unnecessarily changing disc rotors (https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1585776&postcount=10), now my 100 is at the dealer with new front discs and the front calipers's parts spread on the mechanic's workbench. :whoops:
A couple weeks ago I started to notice the typical worn pad noise, and planned to have them changed immediately. But then I had to make a trip and I put some 2000 km more on them. After that, it became a continuous and teeth-grinding screech. :mad:, and the braking feeling was downright scary.
The result is completely worn front discs (not to mention pads) and several rutted brake pistons. After trying everything including a night long soaked with penetrating oil, the mechanic has managed to extract all of the pistons, and only one of them is damaged by rust. So the parts bill will not be excessively high ( a piston costs 13 euro, and the whole caliper 400+), but I'm scared about the labor hours :rolleyes:
I guess at least I have learned some lesson from this. And I hope it will not ruin all my bumper and winch plans, too.
I´ll post some pictures of the old rotors when I get the car back, so you can see what a rotor should never look like.
 
Dealer prices for brake parts in the US are: rotors=$103=Euro79, caliper=$364=Euro280, overhaul kit=$41=Euro32, upper piston=$18=Euro14, lower piston=$20=Euro15. If you shop on-line, some dealers give a 25% discount. http://www.trademotion.com/partloca...e=34&model=Land cruiser&year=1999&catalogid=1

Yes, I know I should have shopped around a little before taking the car to the dealer. I have also looked at www.euro4x4parts.com, which would be even cheaper. But i'm afraid it's too late now; I'll save this info for a next time.thanks for the info.
 
With labor prices as high as they are, most shops will replace calipers with re-man units to keep cost down. I’m not a big fan of re-man units, but have used them in the past with mixed results.
Let us know how everything works out.
DMX
 
Well it sounds like you ran your pads to long but that does not explain your rusted pistons. Unless you did not change your brake fluid from time to time. Water gets into the system and will rust pistons.

Sorry dude:beer:
 
Here is a story I'm sure some of you will appreciate; I heard my rear brake indicators sounding a little and had it checked at the stealer,
I mean dealer. they returned my truck saying I had about 4mm remaining on my rear pads, thought it was stange as I was certain I heard something... kept driving until the sound became metal to metal grinding coming back from a 45 minute road trip. Returned to the dealer right away only to be told that my rotors were shot!
I very calmly showed them my last service record only 6 days old stating the 4mm remaining; not to mention just two weeks prior I had them install the shim kit for all four wheels!!! The manager just looked at me and said " dont worry, we will take care of everything".
Needless to say I am sporting brand new rotors, pads, and shims, compliments of the dealer. Happy ending for a change!:)
 
Thanks for all your input. I just got my 100 back from the dealer, after parting with 550 euro (around 690 USD). I'll post details later, I have left the invoice in the car.
 
Well, I took some pictures of the old parts. This is one disc, it was so thin the mechanic broke it while taking the caliper off:

disco1ym9.jpg

discorotogg4.jpg


A brake pad:

pastillamb1.jpg


The rusted piston:

pistonmh1.jpg
 
hey next time you feel that grinding again maby...


the rotor is telling you that you might want to check you pads.
 
hey next time you feel that grinding again maby...


the rotor is telling you that you might want to check you pads.

Yes, the worst thing is that I knew I had to change them urgently. :whoops: Fortunately, I did not have to deal with an emergency braking situation. The rotors probably would have disintegrated. :rolleyes:
 
Just a warning to anyone who lets their brake pads go till the last mm thickness; the inner pads sometimes wear faster than the outside pads and it looks like all is ok through a quick visual. if your wear indicators are working properly you might catch it in time, if not
that distinctive metal to metal sound will surely get your attention.
of coarse, too late by then!
 

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