Desperate Carb Measures

[Southbound]

Jim C. just rebuilt my carb and I am determined to keep it from ever getting fouled again (happened three times last year, including at the worst possible time on a dangerous Central American highway). I'm pretty sure the culprit is my rusty gas tank, but rather than replacing that I'd like to try just filtering the hell out of any input to the carburetor. Is there any reason I can't use two inline fuel filters? Would that provide enough flow? Also, is there any other way for a carb to get clogged? I'm willing to put a small air filter on every single vacuum line if I have to.

Thanks

 

[D'Animal]

You can run dual filters. Put the highest micron count closest to the fuel pump the other filter can be put in back by the tank. Carry spares of each.

 

[D'Animal]

As far as your vacuum lines, just replace them with new line if you think they are full of crud. I think it takes something like 57' to do alll of them. There are at least two sizes.

Replace one line at a time.

 

[JLH911]

The PO of my 60 had two inline filters and it seems to be fine. It does seem to work because the first filer is dirtier than the second.

 

[ntsqd]

Water separating marine fuel filter

Thinking on this further, you don't need to replace the tank. Just drop it down, clean it out (some rad shops will tank them), and use the POR-15 tank sealer. I know of one tank that has nearly 15 years on this stuff w/o any troubles.

 

[sdbrassfield]

I found an excellent clean tank from a texas cruiser thru a member here for 100.00 shipped...Do it right you won'thave to worry about it going forward...

 

[2mbb]

Put the highest micron count closest to the fuel pump the other filter can be put in back by the tank. Carry spares of each.

I'm used to dealing with filters at work that are characterized by the (effective) pore size. The smaller pore size will trap smaller particles, but will get clogged more easily. In this case you want the largest pore size (sometimes measured in microns) closer to the tank and the smaller port size closer to the carburetor (first filter out the big chunks, then filter the small stuff). Screens-type filters are sometimes measured by "mesh" which is a the number of holes per inch. The higher the "mesh" the smaller the pore size. In this case the lower mesh should be closer to the tank and the higher mesh closer to the carburetor.

When you find out what rating the filter has be sure to find out the number is measuring (pores size, mesh, etc.), then you'll know which goes where.

most of these filters ratings are considered 'nominal' not 'absolute". The filter is made from criss-crossing fibers and the holes are not all the same size. Also particles are not perfect sphere's so particles close in size to the filter rating may sometimes be stopped by the filter and other times not. Therefore two filters in series (even with the same rating) will often filter out more than just one filter.

 

[2mbb]

I'm willing to put a small air filter on every single vacuum line if I have to.

Thanks

As far as your vacuum lines, just replace them with new line if you think they are full of crud. I think it takes something like 57' to do alll of them. There are at least two sizes.

Replace one line at a time.

I agree that replacing them with a good quality tubing (OEM or silicone) would be better and easier than puting filters in the vacuum lines. I'm pretty sure if you have all the original equipment all of the atmospheric sources for vacuum are filtered.

 

[D'Animal]

Isn't that what I said?

They higher the Micron count the smaller debris it will filter. You want this one near the fuel pump or furthest down stream in the system.

The lesser Micron count is the one that will plug up with the "Heaveys" and you will have to replace more often. That is the one that should go near the tank.

In the world of Chain Saws we deal in 45 to 70 micron fuel filters. We go bigger or smaller depending on the application.

You can run dual filters. Put the highest micron count closest to the fuel pump the other filter can be put in back by the tank. Carry spares of each.

I'm used to dealing with filters at work that are characterized by the (effective) pore size. The smaller pore size will trap smaller particles, but will get clogged more easily. In this case you want the largest pore size (sometimes measured in microns) closer to the tank and the smaller port size closer to the carburetor (first filter out the big chunks, then filter the small stuff). Screens-type filters are sometimes measured by "mesh" which is a the number of holes per inch. The higher the "mesh" the smaller the pore size. In this case the lower mesh should be closer to the tank and the higher mesh closer to the carburetor.

When you find out what rating the filter has be sure to find out the number is measuring (pores size, mesh, etc.), then you'll know which goes where.

most of these filters ratings are considered 'nominal' not 'absolute". The filter is made from criss-crossing fibers and the holes are not all the same size. Also particles are not perfect sphere's so particles close in size to the filter rating may sometimes be stopped by the filter and other times not. Therefore two filters in series (even with the same rating) will often filter out more than just one filter.

 

[2mbb]

Isn't that what I said?

The higher the Micron count the smaller debris it will filter.

I guess I don't know what you mean by "micron count". Micron is a unit of measure, 1/1000 of a millimeter. In my experience with filters it represents the nominal size of the pores that the liquid flows through. A 40 micron filter will have smaller pores than a 70 micron filter and therefore the 40 micron filter will remove smaller debris and plug up more quickly. You want to install the 70 micron filter closer to the tank (upstream) and the 40 micron filter closer to the carburetor (downstream).

 

[D'Animal]

Yep!

IYou want to install the 70 micron filter closer to the tank (upstream) and the 40 micron filter closer to the carburetor (downstream).

That is what I thought I said, or meant to say.

 

[Zack1978]

IMHO, deal with the gas tank, not the filters. If it was already replaced under the recall, then have it cleaned.


Zack

 

[Spike Strip]

IMHO, deal with the gas tank, not the filters. If it was already replaced under the recall, then have it cleaned.


Zack

There are places that will clean a gas tank?

 

[D'Animal]

There are places that will clean a gas tank?

Most radiator shops will cook and clean it.

 

[Spike Strip]

Thanks, Dan. I didn't know that... Got mine out so off it goes.

 

[lehiguy]

I have seen this happen; some previous owner swaps a fuel pump or whatever, and reverses the lines when reassembling. Make sure you're not drawing through the return line. You obviously would be bypassing the filter. On that same rig, even after fixing the lines, there was enough residual spoo in the fuel pump that it needed to be replaced as well. I suggest you take a close look at your pump; everything that made it to your carb went through the pump first.

 

[Zack1978]

Most radiator shops will cook and clean it.

And if the tank is very bad, find the nearest "gas tank renu" franchise, usually a radiator shop.


Zack

 

[ntsqd]

What I said earlier:

Thinking on this further, you don't need to replace the tank. Just drop it down, clean it out (some rad shops will tank them), and use the POR-15 tank sealer. I know of one tank that has nearly 15 years on this stuff w/o any troubles.

 

[Southbound]

I hooked up two stock fuel filters inline and she's still running like a champ. I don't know if that will actually accomplish anything, but it doesn't seem to be hurting...