desmog

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jgprete

jgprete

Joined
Mar 8, 2013
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any good write ups floating around on how to desmog an 82? the truck is registered as an antique in my state so no emissions equipment is needed so in order to clean up the appearance of the engine bay and to make my life easier i am looking for some info on breaking it down to bare bones operation. im assuming some of the parts needed would be an exhaust header, carb, air cleaner, etc but would like some more info.
 
i always atleast try to find info before i ask here but sometimes (maybe im just slow) its not what your looking for. i kept coming up with people asking about belts and brackets etc vs the whole process of desmogging. ill search what you have suggested though thanks
 
Since yours is very similar to an FJ60, look in the sticky section of the FJ60 forum for the mother of all desmog threads. Or maybe in the tech links at the top of the forum page. There's a detailed diagram and there's like a 100+ page thread - something like "my desmog thread".
 
Bag and tag all the parts you take off the truck! With emissions standards getting nothing but more stringent those parts might be needed one day. Keep searching, the FJ60 crowd will be able to help you out pretty easily.
 
it would seem the major issues with a desmog is ignition needing certain vac lines, and the carb needing them to function properly. i has assumed by desmogging i would be required to change/upgrade the ignition system and purchasing and installing an after market carb (weber, holley, etc) so the stock ignition and carb needing them doesnt matter to me if i am replacing them with a more simple part. I would also like to add im not a redneck in search of more hp and so im willing to chop it to pieces to get it. it has just been modified slightly by the previous owner, some hoses are plugged already and the smog pump was disconnected, and i cant make sense of it. Im simply a neat freak and want remove a rats nest that isnt working anyway and im willing to change the ignition and carb to do it
 
You can just cap some of the dizzy lines, but I think you always want to run at least one. I wouldn't touch an after-market carb with a 10 ft pole. You can search the site for people who will swear by the OEM one. You can just cap off the lines from the OEM one you don't want to use, or even buy a trollhole one that comes already desmogged and brand new. It helps to understand what each system does. You need the '81 emission control manual to really understand what you are looking at. I have a digital copy, but a physical copy is best, they crop up on ebay quite often, or post up in the wanted section there. I can email you a copy too if you would like.

Edit: Search for 2F desmog on this site. All the information is here. I promise.
 
The OEM ones are still available from Toytota, and not too pricey. That is what I used.
 
jgprete said:
i has assumed by desmogging i would be required to change/upgrade the ignition system and purchasing and installing an after market carb.... and im willing to change the ignition and carb to do it
Click to expand...

No. Don't.

The one thing you probably want to do is re-curve your distributor. FJ40jim provides this service and it is probably a bargain at twice his price. He will also happily rebuild your stock carb. The carb needs no modification to work in a desmogged system. Remember, the same carb (more or less) was on these trucks before the invention of silly smog pumps and the like.

good luck
 
FishTacos said:
No. Don't.

The one thing you probably want to do is re-curve your distributor. FJ40jim provides this service and it is probably a bargain at twice his price. He will also happily rebuild your stock carb. The carb needs no modification to work in a desmogged system. Remember, the same carb (more or less) was on these trucks before the invention of silly smog pumps and the like.

good luck
Click to expand...

ok well if this carb will work on a desmogged system why rebuild it then?
 
If you don't need to then don't. It all depends on how well it is running. When I resmogged my 2F I bought a used FJ60 carb and had it rebuilt. So if it runs strong I wouldn't worry about it.
 
man all this weld this shut...cap this vac line stuff is making me dizzy. that 350 conversion i was trying to avoid looks more appealing now
 
Then you could buy a Trollhole carb and be done.
 
jgprete said:
man all this weld this shut...cap this vac line stuff is making me dizzy. that 350 conversion i was trying to avoid looks more appealing now
Click to expand...

it is complicated for sure, but trust me, it's easier than trying to build the system back. Just get the right source materials, read through some threads, make a plan, bounce the plan off of the guys here, and get cracking. The FJ40 is a labor of love.
 
so far it seems i can keep my stock dizzy and carb with no modification. i think i have also figured out that since they are not smog equipment i believe it said i can unhook anything connected to the pump and cap all the ports on the intake. the intimidating part is the mass of vac lines that are all over the driver side fender. i cant figure out from any amount of reading what to do with the vac lines
 
So, again. I can email you a .pdf of the emissions manual and it will tell you exactly what each component does. From there, you can search for the exact system and see what everyone says or what to do. I'd completely remove the smog pump and put a pully from SOR or gut it at the least and use it as a pully. All your ports looked already capped from your thread about your temperature sender. Where are you located? I'm sure there would be a cruiser club nearby that might offer some assistance.
 
i am located in ri. sorry thought i already answered that. yes there are two ports capped and welded shut it appears however to desmog totally i would have to do some work on the exhaust at that rear cyl. might just wait a bit till i can spring for the nice sor 2 piece headers, get the block off plate and retain stock dizzy and carb.
 
My position is that there is nothing significant to be gained from removing the smog gear and you may end up making it run worse. Plus it is a lot of work and will make your cruiser worth less and you won't be able to sell it in some places.

Lets see: Lose, lose lose
 
Pin_Head said:
My position is that there is nothing significant to be gained from removing the smog gear and you may end up making it run worse. Plus it is a lot of work and will make your cruiser worth less and you won't be able to sell it in some places.

Lets see: Lose, lose lose
Click to expand...

all except for the fact that any testimonial i have read about the "conversion" says they are happy with the results. "may" is not a good word, its not a lottery or something that offers iffy results. if you take your time and do it properly there isnt really a chance it will run worse, your deleting an "item" thats not essential to engine function. Properly is the key word though, I do understand the dangers. Its an old truck not subject to emissions testing any longer, the system isnt working and is half unhooked already, and the only person it would be worth less to is a dealer. any regular joe would appreciate the much more appealing engine bay. outside of a collector ( but lets face it, he isnt going to want my cruiser lol)

also the truck will never be sold, it has a large amount of sentimental value, and as far as the work is concerned keeping a woman happy is way more trouble so im not scared. Lets use our energy to help people do things "properly" and not be such a negative nancy because we think its a bad idea :D
 
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