Deleted threads

[CruiseOrlando]

Getting to GSMTR

I know I haven't met you guys yet - everything seems to have scheduling issues if you know what I mean. But I'm trying to plan in advance to get out to GSMTR this year.

I'm interested to see if it makes sense to pool some resources on getting rigs up there. I figure if I drive my rig up there, I'm looking at around $450 in fuel. If a few of us pool together, perhaps we can make it work for getting a semi or other truck hauler to drag a few up there at a time.

I don't have any experience using these kinds of services, but I do know how to do research. That being said, I thought I'd toss it out to everyone and see what, if anything, sticks.

I also thought about getting a car dolly, but that's probably not the safest thing in the world for a LC to tow another LC, unless the towed vehicle is only around 4000lbs (my 80 is around 5500-6000).

 

[FL cruiser]

It's only going to cost me $40 in fuel round trip

Getting a truck was discussed last year.
Florida Land Cruiser Association • View topic - GSMTR TRAVEL PLANS

It didn't pan out due to too many restrictions. A couple of people didn't meet the height restrictions. The deal killer for me and a few others was the 100lb restriction for loose gear inside the vehicle. That means severely limited camping gear, tools and spare parts.

Then there's always the issues of getting people to commit and then due to various reasons a couple of people end up backing out.

Maybe renegade hauler can be found, but most are scared of the heavy hand of the DOT these days.

Greg from Tampa was pulling a trailer with three rigs on it and got pulled over in Georgia on the way to GSMTR. They made him go into a weigh station and found he was overweight and found a couple other violations and issued him $650 worth of tickets.

We could always caravan on up.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

Yeah, I didn't want to go into the "UHAUL" way. In-town, maybe for a quick trip - sure... but I wouldn't test that on the open road.

I've pinged a few transport companies, and I'm looking for pricing. For a single rider it's around $550 each way - waaaayyyy too expensive and it'll never pan out that way.

Caravaning is always better than going alone, so at the least I'd like to figure that out with some other folks in the area. The trip itself looks like it couldn't be easier - right up 75.

Maybe I should find a reason to have a 'business meeting' up there and then I can write the fuel off as an expense... heh.

 

[40TUDE]

ive got vid of greg blowing the diff, just need to get it to upload, also added photos to the album in the other thread

 

[FJCRAWLER]

That's some great pictures , really show the angle of the climb . Stay in touch Floridabronco , we should be having a tech session soon on rebuilding a FJC 3rd member with E-Locker . We always have a great time .

 

[FJCRAWLER]

"( Maybe I should find a reason to have a 'business meeting' up there and then I can write the fuel off as an expense... heh. )"

What ?

Write the whole trip off .

 

[FL cruiser]

ive got vid of greg blowing the diff

Are we allowed to put that on here??

Ha, I crack myself up

 

[CruiserCliff]

Sucks driving a rig to an event like GSMTR though. I feel like I cant really work out my 80 it as hard as I want to. Nothing worse than crossing fingers on a 600 mile trip home hoping that a rig you abused for several days will get you home in 1 piece. Last long distance trip, I lost a front caliper on my way home in Ocala and had to make a call to AAA. Luckily, I was 2 miles inside my 100 mile circle. I am sure Steve and Bret remember that litle trip.

 

[Gwagg]

Advice for bombed 3rd member for FJ Cruiser

I am looking for some advice after bombing my rear end at Hard Rock. This post will show my anal analytical cheap side of my personality. I have read a lot of posts on Mud and the Blue forum. Below are my thoughts and research. [FONT=&quot]
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GWAGG’s FJC
This is my current daily driver until I get my teenagers out on their own. I drive this up to Georgia to see family a few times a year as well as my bike riding event. I hope in 2 years this will be my toy truck.

• 2007 (purchased 2006) FJC 4X4 with 5sp Automatic Transmission, Atrac, Stock rear E-locker

• 76K miles

• OME medium lift, Demello frt bumper + winch, Budbuilt Skids

• LT285/70R17 (33X11.50R17) Hankook mud terrain tires

• Rear 8” 3rd member with 3.73 ratio
  
  
• I do not want to negatively impact gas mileage anymore than I have
  
  
• I might replace the OME in the future but not with a 6" lift
  
  

Aftermarket LT285/70R17 (33X11.50R17) tires spec shows 629 revolutions a mile
Stock LT265/70R 17 tires spec shows 658 revolutions a mile

Assumptions-

• Rebuilt 3rd member will be the fastest way to get the truck back on the rode

• After 75K miles I should replace the bearings in the differential (not T-case) since it is a full time model. Since the rear is blown those bearings are trashed due to metal fragments

• I want to keep the ABS, ATRAC, VSC working

• I want to keep the rear e-locker and not go with an ARB and air compressor

• 4.56 gears will help with larger tires and extra weight that I have added to stock FJ
  
  
• With a IFS I am not looking to drive up a 100 yard rock garden so ATRAC will suffice and I do not want a front locker.
  

Information-

From Just Differentials-
The rear Toyota 8" differential is quite undersized for the application. The Toyota 8" (27 spline pinion) began its production in 1979 and was used behind a 80 hp engine in a 3000 lb truck with 28" tires, this was robust for this application. Fast forward to 2007 and Toyota is still using the 8" (although 29 spline pinion)behind 265 HP 5000+ lb vehicle with 32" tires (or bigger). This, as well as some early production issues equaled many failures on the rear Ring & Pinions, even on stock vehicles. Enough so that Toyota pulled the plug on the 8" diff after the 2009 model year and with the 2010 models, released the 8.2" diff. This new diff has a larger 30 spline pinion, 12 ring gear bolts, bigger bearings, more rigid case, etc. If you have a 07-09 model FJ Cruiser than you have the 8", since it was already an existing rearend in other applications, there were already common aftermarket gears available. The only difference is the aftermarket gears had a smaller 27 spline and required downsizing along with a new flange. Nitro Gear now offers the 8" gears in a 29 spline direct fit version.
One big thing to consider when going with 4.56 or 4.88 is the cost. If you plan to add a locker to the front anyways, than it doesnt really matter. However if you have an AT, then you have 3.73 ratio, thus the T8S-456RT-NG will fit your stock carrier. If you have a MT, then you have 3.91 ratio, thus the T8S-488R-NG will fit your stock carrier. If going to a different carrier then you need to factor the $350 for a STD OE case, or an ARB Air Locker.

We've supplied 4.56 & 4.88 for a hundreds upon hundreds of FJ Cruisers. The bulk of them running a 33-35" tire, some bigger. The AT or MT has such a tall overdrive, and Toyota did not factor for larger tires. So when anything bigger is fitted it will require changing gear ratio, or tolerating loss of power, less time in overdrive etc. Still for some, the math seems to be more important than real world fact, experience, etc and some demand 4.10. We do offer them only for this reason. We get many inquiries from people that have run the numbers (we have too!) and ask for a 4.08 or a 4.22 ratio etc. and think they want 4.10. They fail to factor in the added rolling resistance, wind drag, added weight of accessories, or the fact that the vehicles are a bit too tall geared to begin with. Many of people in this situation opt for 4.56 and are always happy that they did






Gwagg's Options for Blown rear differential

1. Rebuild my 3rd member with 3.70 gears and new bearing - $557 parts only
   
   
2. Replace my 3rd member with a rebuilt 3rd member with 3.70 gears (incl 5yr warranty)
   1. ECGS Quote $648 +$40 core shipping
      
      
3. Rebuild my front and rear 3rd member with 4.56 gears and new bearing
   1. Rear - $477 w/bearings - $350 w/o bearings
   2. Front - $711 w/bearings - $450 w/o bearings
      1. Total - $1188 w/bearings parts only - $800 w/o bearings
         
         
4. Replace both front and rear differentials with a rebuilt (inc 5 yr warranty)
   1. Rear - ECGS Quote $648 +$40 core shipping
   2. Front - ECGS Quote $620 +$40 core shipping
      1. Total - $1348

I have emails out asking for quotes for my options from Just Differentials and East Coast Gear Supply.


Link to the JD quote, someone double check my math -

If I used the East Coast Gear website correctly and read the JD quote right; I am leaning toward the ECG with 4.56 gears and the 5yr warranty. JD site pushes the 4.56 gears the 4.88 would be a consideration if I did not street run it as much as I do.
Any other considerations?
I need to read about the Diff spacer for lifted FJs next to keep the front axles at the right angle.

Link to more information about a differential

 

[40TUDE]

I like the 5 yr warranty diffs, but as another option I bet you could easily find a 3rd or just the gears that you need from someone who has swapped theirs. Why do you say you need new tcase bearings?

 

[Floridabronco]

i saw this happen. i too wonder why you think you need to chg t case bearings? i dont see the need. I would first go to local salvage yard and get a price on a whole take out rear end. it maybe alot cheaper, and doesnt matter if they have a FJ sitting there all the salvage yards are linked up. maybe for the same or less money you can stuff the newer 8.2 style axle under there??

also as said above someone maybe selling stock unit.

FYR on gear ratio's i have a 1979 Bronco with Dana 70 and 44" boggers and auto. I run 4:56 gears in it, stock V8 from gas shortage days puts out about 150 HP and it weights 6000#. Is it rock crawly low geared....no, but has no trouble in the dirt and some rocks and on-road (not recommended) runs at 60 mph @ normal RPM range.

I think if you re-gear 4:56 would be ok. If your really anal go find a gear ratio / MPH / RPM chart and pick your gear / tire combo to put you in the RPM you want.

 

[FL cruiser]

Option 1. The figure seems way high. Your bearings should be in great shape and many times are better quality than the bearings you buy to replace them with.

You more than likely pulled the diff before metal fragments damaged the bearings. You really didn't drive it at all. It should be pulled apart for damage assessment before you can make a totally accurate parts estimate.

Gears should be less than $250.
It should be something like this:

Gears $225
Pinion seal $12
Depending on if the pinion bearings are spaced with shims or crush sleeve.
Add $15 for a crush sleeve.


Aftermarket gears (cheaper) should be fine. The original gears didn't seem all that durable.

I would either go cheap or go all out with 4.56's.
I know what it's like to have kids in college.

 

[40TUDE]

You will not find an e-locked 3rd for anything under 800, you would want to find someone to sell the gears only. Check pirate and other forums. I am also concerned about the bearings in the diff, it was making some noise earlier in the day which makes me think the failure was not spontaneous. You should be able to assess their condition though.

 

[Jerry D.]

Roll bar pads...

Does anyone have a set of stock FJ40 roll bar pads they want to get rid of???


Thanks,
Jerry Dixon

 

[40TUDE]

I will take a look around, no promises

 

[CruiserCliff]

Sell it and buy a 100 Series!

 

[CruiserCliff]

Same here Jerry.

 

[FJCRAWLER]

Ok , here's my two cents worth . You most likely drive the FJC on the road more than off . So with that said I would just replace the damaged parts and get a master rebuild kit . As much as you drive it I wouldn't trust the bearings , replace them while you have it apart . Then once you have it for a toy we can do a SAS and 4 link the thing and maybe install one of Steve's diesels . But for now I would do the repair and reinstall only .

Option " B "

Real simple ,

Buy mine , it has it all and ready to drive .

 

[Gwagg]

Thanks for the replies.
My 2nd assumption was worded wrong. I meant differential bearings. JD advised bearings due to metal fragments and I have read where a few of these bearings are going south after 100K. Agree that I did not drive it to transfer the metal fragments. The noise earlier was coming from the transfer case, I think I did not have it fully in 4Hi. I just don't want to dig into the Diff in another 25k miles.

I looked on the blue forums selling section and a Craigslist universal search with no luck for a stock 3rd. Tonight I was going to research salvage yards. If I replace with a 2010 Differential case I will need to change the front as well to keep the gears the same.

Nitro seems to be the only company making Toyota 8" gears. I need to look at the company Rocky recommended tonight.

Is rebuilding a 4hr bench job with special tools and skills?

100 is too big for me; I want to be like Jerry and drive my great grandkids in my original owner ride.

 

[FJCRAWLER]

Need to get it to Luis house , we can have a pig roast , beer drinking , wrench turning tech session . Plus Luis is kinda central to us all ( I think ) and he has everything needed to rebuild ( tools ) .