Dealer won't flush brakes. Anyone else?

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Joined
Apr 11, 2006
Threads
11
Messages
147
Location
Sacramento, CA
I've done the brake flush/bleeds myself in the past as described in various threads on 'mud, but never felt it did the "whole" job as described in the FSM.
So I thought it would be nice to have the dealer, with the Toyota actuator tester, do it to ensure all the lines get done.
They refuse to, claiming that there's a good chance it'll blow the booster pump.
Anyone else run into this issue?
Original owner vehicle. Well-maintained, 1998 vintage with 333,000 on the clock. Master cylinder rebuilt 73K ago.
 
Just because they're a dealer in no way guarantees the work will be done correctly.

They're basically telling you they will blow up your booster pump, which wont be their fault because they told you that would happen, then try to sell you another vehicle as replacement.

Id probably go back and thank them for refusing to service.
 
Just because they're a dealer in no way guarantees the work will be done correctly.

They're basically telling you they will blow up your booster pump, which wont be their fault because they told you that would happen, then try to sell you another vehicle as replacement.

Id probably go back and thank them for refusing to service.
And then report what they said to Toyota Corporate.
 
Interesting claim.
 
I've done the brake flush/bleeds myself in the past as described in various threads on 'mud, but never felt it did the "whole" job as described in the FSM.
Then do it yourself ;) The you'll know job done right!

FSM, Tech Stream AIR BLEED (TS AB). Is so easy. Just takes extra time, TS cable and PC with USB slot.
I always TS AB, when installing a new master (get out storage/assembly fluid). Drive ABS activation, does much the same. In that it pushes new fluid through the ABS valves. But that fluid is still in the system.

I TS AB, only sometimes, when doing regular PM flush & bleeds. Like ever 3rd perhaps. If we've maintain brake fluid, with proper and regular flushing. TS AB isn't of all that much more benefit, than just activating ABS.

I've extra long cable, so I can take my Note Book PC, under vehicle with me. When doing without helper, to open bleeders for my or run PC. It is a must.
I also use "My Little Helper" A spring loaded shower rod. To press brake pedal.
Helper Brake bleed (1).webp
Helper Brake bleed (2).webp


I've played around with just flush and bleed (F&B), TS AB and braking to activate ABS. In no case did I get extra air from system, after any combination. Provide I flushed and then bled properly.

I have, on occasion, gotten dirty fluid after flush & bleed. When then TS AB. Which it's difficult to say; if from ABS unit valve(s), screens or cambers. Or that, which was/is remained in caliper. That flushing alone, doesn't get out of caliper.

New brake masters come with some fluid, we're instructed to bench flush. So I do TS AB in those, after manual F&B extra amounts (7 to 8 bottles Toyota Brake fluid).

TS AB, just activates ABS valves one at a time pushes just a little fluid through ABS valve. When it's, corresponding bleeder is open, we get only a little fluid from that line/bleeder. If bleeder not open, it still moves some fluid through valve, but even less. We have to activate same valve, muliple times with bleeder open. To push that fluid or air which was in that ABS valve, all the way out a bleeder. How many times depends on length of line. RR being longest line (distance from master).

Activating ABS while driving, does the same as TS AB. In that it, pushes fluid through valve cambers within ABS unit. Which we believe will mix with reservoir fluid with use and additional activation of ABS. Trick is, activate muliple times, driving various speeds with tires on changing slick surfaces. To get all 4 corners to activate muliple times. We can do this over time/miles.

So I thought it would be nice to have the dealer, with the Toyota actuator tester, do it to ensure all the lines get done.
They refuse to, claiming that there's a good chance it'll blow the booster pump.
It has no more effect on booster pump, then daily driving and or ABS activation.
Anyone else run into this issue?
Original owner vehicle. Well-maintained, 1998 vintage with 333,000 on the clock. Master cylinder rebuilt 73K ago.
They server manger doesn't understand the system. Or explained poorly. Or very likely, has concerns: A failure of brake master after you leave the shop. You'll blame them for.

I'll add, we can do a better job, than most any Dealership or INDY will do. For one, they'd not likely flush accumulator 5 times.

One thing almost nobody does. Is evacuate calipers by compressing pistons in, during just a F&B. It's just to much extra labor/time.
If R&R pads or have calipers off for some other reason. Say like when using my OTV brake lathe or wheel bearing service.
Flushing before compress piston in. Is our golden opportunity, to flush calipers. Then, an extra long bleed getting extra amount fluid from bleeders, after.
Key is, flush first so line have fresh fluid, to fill empty calipers that have were evacuated.
 
Then do it yourself ;) The you'll know job done right!

FSM, Tech Stream AIR BLEED (TS AB). Is so easy. Just takes extra time, TS cable and PC with USB slot.
I always TS AB, when installing a new master (get out storage/assembly fluid). Drive ABS activation, does much the same. In that it pushes new fluid through the ABS valves. But that fluid is still in the system.

I TS AB, only sometimes, when doing regular PM flush & bleeds. Like ever 3rd perhaps. If we've maintain brake fluid, with proper and regular flushing. TS AB isn't of all that much more benefit, than just activating ABS.

I've extra long cable, so I can take my Note Book PC, under vehicle with me. When doing without helper, to open bleeders for my or run PC. It is a must.
I also use "My Little Helper" A spring loaded shower rod. To press brake pedal.
View attachment 4034743View attachment 4034744

I've played around with just flush and bleed (F&B), TS AB and braking to activate ABS. In no case did I get extra air from system, after any combination. Provide I flushed and then bled properly.

I have, on occasion, gotten dirty fluid after flush & bleed. When then TS AB. Which it's difficult to say; if from ABS unit valve(s), screens or cambers. Or that, which was/is remained in caliper. That flushing alone, doesn't get out of caliper.

New brake masters come with some fluid, we're instructed to bench flush. So I do TS AB in those, after manual F&B extra amounts (7 to 8 bottles Toyota Brake fluid).

TS AB, just activates ABS valves one at a time pushes just a little fluid through ABS valve. When it's, corresponding bleeder is open, we get only a little fluid from that line/bleeder. If bleeder not open, it still moves some fluid through valve, but even less. We have to activate same valve, muliple times with bleeder open. To push that fluid or air which was in that ABS valve, all the way out a bleeder. How many times depends on length of line. RR being longest line (distance from master).

Activating ABS while driving, does the same as TS AB. In that it, pushes fluid through valve cambers within ABS unit. Which we believe will mix with reservoir fluid with use and additional activation of ABS. Trick is, activate muliple times, driving various speeds with tires on changing slick surfaces. To get all 4 corners to activate muliple times. We can do this over time/miles.


It has no more effect on booster pump, then daily driving and or ABS activation.

They server manger doesn't understand the system. Or explained poorly. Or very likely, has concerns: A failure of brake master after you leave the shop. You'll blame them for.

I'll add, we can do a better job, than most any Dealership or INDY will do. For one, they'd not likely flush accumulator 5 times.

One thing almost nobody does. Is evacuate calipers by compressing pistons in, during just a F&B. It's just to much extra labor/time.
If R&R pads or have calipers off for some other reason. Say like when using my OTV brake lathe or wheel bearing service.
Flushing before compress piston in. Is our golden opportunity, to flush calipers. Then, an extra long bleed getting extra amount fluid from bleeders, after.
Key is, flush first so line have fresh fluid, to fill empty calipers that have were evacuated.
Sound advice. Am about to head to Colorado from California and just wanted to skip trips under the vehicle.
Getting older makes those multiple up & downs just a wee bit more tiresome…
But you and the others are right. If I want it done correctly, then it’s time for a little pre-job advil and just do it myself.
Like always…
 
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