Dealer price for brakes & bearing repack (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MoJ
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Pads are something like $45 from C-Dan, Amsoil synthetic grease is less than $5 a tub, seals are another $20.
Other than that it's all labor and pretty straitforward. Do it yourself.
Ohhh, you'll need a hubnut socket ($20 from Sears) and a torque wrench, but those are more of investments than costs associated with just this job.
Other than that it's all labor and pretty straitforward. Do it yourself.
Ohhh, you'll need a hubnut socket ($20 from Sears) and a torque wrench, but those are more of investments than costs associated with just this job.
Do it yourself !!!!!!!!!!
If you are not sure of when the wheel bearings were last done it is worth having a spare set in hand if needed. also depending on mileage you might consider making a weekend of it and packing the birfields at the same time.
Dave
If you are not sure of when the wheel bearings were last done it is worth having a spare set in hand if needed. also depending on mileage you might consider making a weekend of it and packing the birfields at the same time.
Dave
Wayne
Bought by His blood, kept by His power
Do it yourself......... it's pretty easy....... just follow the FSM step by step. As stated earlier, you only need new pads, bearing grease and grease seals (2). The only special tool required is a 54mm half inch drive socket. Now get out there and do it 
.
Wayne S
.Wayne S
[quote author=Wayne link=board=2;threadid=13406;start=msg124046#msg124046 date=1079733622]
Do it yourself......... it's pretty easy....... just follow the FSM step by step. As stated earlier, you only need new pads, bearing grease and grease seals (2). The only special tool required is a 54mm half inch drive socket. Now get out there and do it.
Wayne S
[/quote]
or a 2 1/8 socket ... I think...or maybe it was a 2 1/4 Someone correct me here...not at home to check.
Do it yourself......... it's pretty easy....... just follow the FSM step by step. As stated earlier, you only need new pads, bearing grease and grease seals (2). The only special tool required is a 54mm half inch drive socket. Now get out there and do it
.Wayne S
[/quote]
or a 2 1/8 socket ... I think...or maybe it was a 2 1/4 Someone correct me here...not at home to check.
Oh yeah....do it yourself. My first time took me a hell of a long time because I didn't know what I was doing. I checked them a week or so later and found one with some slop...I had it torn down, fixed and back together in less than an hour. Feels good to DIY.
Go for it! I r/r the rotors and pads in the garage!
I did invest in a floor jack and stands that were on sale @ kragen auto parts.
I did invest in a floor jack and stands that were on sale @ kragen auto parts.
[quote author=MoJ link=board=2;threadid=13406;start=msg124031#msg124031 date=1079732306]
Toy dealership wants $472 f/r pad replacement ...
[/quote]
Only $472? The local Toyota dealer wanted over $700 to do mine! I bought all OEM parts from a tlca supported dealer for little bit more than 100 bucks. It was simpler than replacing the brake pads on my mountain bike. If you have a torque wrench then you should consider doing it yourself....
/td
Toy dealership wants $472 f/r pad replacement ...
[/quote]
Only $472? The local Toyota dealer wanted over $700 to do mine! I bought all OEM parts from a tlca supported dealer for little bit more than 100 bucks. It was simpler than replacing the brake pads on my mountain bike. If you have a torque wrench then you should consider doing it yourself....
/td
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Pads are easy, rotors not so easy. I know everyone on this list always likes to tell people to do it themselves. However when changing rotor's you need to reset the wheel bearings. Not the most difficult thing to do, but also not the best thing for a starting DIY mechanic to do. We see a lot of trucks at the shop where DIY people have done this, and messes up setting up the bearings properly. Either to loose or to tight. Both cases, they end up trashing other parts that are expensive to replace.
We have to be carefull not to want to change everyone into a mechanic. Some people are just not up to it. Yes, it could save you money if you diy, but sometimes not. If you are not able to do the work, then build up a relationship with a shop that you trust and will do the work.
Also, people always assume the worst when dealing with dealers, the cost is always to high etc etc, however being on the other side the general public has no idea why the costs are so high. You drop your old oil off at Checker and they take it for free, we pay someone to take it with. Insurance, etc etc.
Just wanted to paint the other side of the picture.
We have to be carefull not to want to change everyone into a mechanic. Some people are just not up to it. Yes, it could save you money if you diy, but sometimes not. If you are not able to do the work, then build up a relationship with a shop that you trust and will do the work.
Also, people always assume the worst when dealing with dealers, the cost is always to high etc etc, however being on the other side the general public has no idea why the costs are so high. You drop your old oil off at Checker and they take it for free, we pay someone to take it with. Insurance, etc etc.
Just wanted to paint the other side of the picture.
Especially when the shop has an estimated overhead cost of 20 birfields a month, J/K Christo, a quality repuitable shop is so hard to come by these days and quite priceless, so is peace of mind that the work is correctly done, Brad.
J/K Christo, a quality repuitable shop is so hard to come by these days and quite priceless, so is peace of mind that the work is correctly done, Brad.[quote author=MoJ link=board=2;threadid=13406;start=msg124031#msg124031 date=1079732306]
Toy dealership wants $472 f/r pad replacement & says wheel bearing need repacked (described them as loose). Does this sound like too much? Thinking of tackling it myself with my recently arrived FSM.
[/quote]
Jason, I have a guy that I use out here in Nixa that will save you around $100 on that price. He's done my wheel bearings a couple of times and just did my front and rear brake pads. He does all of the work on my LC. These guys are "real" mechanic's not like what you might find at "Reliable Toyota". His business Name is European Motorcar Service and the owners name is Joe. He lived in Alaska for a long time and worked on LC's up there. His number is 725-2745. Just tell him that Dennis his neighbor with the 95 LC told you to call. Congrats on the new LC
Toy dealership wants $472 f/r pad replacement & says wheel bearing need repacked (described them as loose). Does this sound like too much? Thinking of tackling it myself with my recently arrived FSM.
[/quote]
Jason, I have a guy that I use out here in Nixa that will save you around $100 on that price. He's done my wheel bearings a couple of times and just did my front and rear brake pads. He does all of the work on my LC. These guys are "real" mechanic's not like what you might find at "Reliable Toyota". His business Name is European Motorcar Service and the owners name is Joe. He lived in Alaska for a long time and worked on LC's up there. His number is 725-2745. Just tell him that Dennis his neighbor with the 95 LC told you to call. Congrats on the new LC
The main reason I work on my own stuff was at 1st I was a poor SOB and then when I got older and was able to pay someone I was getting the poorest svc from everywhere I went . Living between NYC and Phiily. The shaft is the main "tool" at almost all shops. There are only 2 shops I use, One is the muffer shop owned by a couple of brothers and will do what you ask, fast,do good work and are very reasonable.
The other is the shop I take all my junk to get inspected since he knows what hes doing and wont jack me around .
If just the price was a factor I wouldn't spend 12K+ just for my "shop" a year . I do it since my wife is worth more to me then the money I spend for the place and "I" know its done right and with the right parts ,not by some dude looking to beat the "book" time cause his boss is riding his ass since he didnt sell enough $1000 30k mile svcs this month.
Taking pride in your job is not stressed around here, just the bottom dollar. :-\
Living between NYC and Phiily. The shaft is the main "tool" at almost all shops. There are only 2 shops I use, One is the muffer shop owned by a couple of brothers and will do what you ask, fast,do good work and are very reasonable. The other is the shop I take all my junk to get inspected since he knows what hes doing and wont jack me around .
If just the price was a factor I wouldn't spend 12K+ just for my "shop" a year . I do it since my wife is worth more to me then the money I spend for the place and "I" know its done right and with the right parts ,not by some dude looking to beat the "book" time cause his boss is riding his ass since he didnt sell enough $1000 30k mile svcs this month.
Taking pride in your job is not stressed around here, just the bottom dollar. :-\
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
[quote author=Bradass80 link=board=2;threadid=13406;start=msg124300#msg124300 date=1079796254]
Especially when the shop has an estimated overhead cost of 20 birfields a month, J/K [/quote]
Hey, I am not at 20 yet. I have now started on the rear. Will post pics on Monday. Finally tore the back end of the short bus apart. Needed the gas axle. Not a good thing.
Especially when the shop has an estimated overhead cost of 20 birfields a month,
J/K [/quote]Hey, I am not at 20 yet. I have now started on the rear. Will post pics on Monday. Finally tore the back end of the short bus apart. Needed the gas axle. Not a good thing.
Carefull Christo, if you're pulling apart your rear, we don't want pics. 
I see both sides of the cost figures. Had a dealer do the install on my blower cause I wanted the warranty. Well, it cost a fortune, but glad I used the dealer cause when the 1FZ-FE croaked, they could not say it was due to improper blower install. New block covered by warranty. I'd like to work on my junk more, but I don't know much about it. So I just keep doing a little more each time. This last time, I happened to be with some realy cool dudes, Koffer, Cruiser4070, SatanticMechanic, Zebrabeefj40, Jman and Shamrox80. It's kind of good to know there are some good guys around if you get stuck with something.
It may not be a bad idea to try this yourself if there are some local cruiserheads around to help you if you're stuck. Even better if one will be there to hand you a #6 when you're done. I waited to do mine till a good friend, and cruiserhead, was available to walk me through it.
Remember, don't ever let your pride get in the way of hiring someone to do something you don't feel comfortable doing.
I see both sides of the cost figures. Had a dealer do the install on my blower cause I wanted the warranty. Well, it cost a fortune, but glad I used the dealer cause when the 1FZ-FE croaked, they could not say it was due to improper blower install. New block covered by warranty. I'd like to work on my junk more, but I don't know much about it. So I just keep doing a little more each time. This last time, I happened to be with some realy cool dudes, Koffer, Cruiser4070, SatanticMechanic, Zebrabeefj40, Jman and Shamrox80. It's kind of good to know there are some good guys around if you get stuck with something.
It may not be a bad idea to try this yourself if there are some local cruiserheads around to help you if you're stuck. Even better if one will be there to hand you a #6 when you're done. I waited to do mine till a good friend, and cruiserhead, was available to walk me through it.
Remember, don't ever let your pride get in the way of hiring someone to do something you don't feel comfortable doing.
