Darkside of ADD

[timbercruiser]

I have my Tacoma in the shop for the pinion bearing in the front diff. If there weren't so many lazy drivers out there, it would be an issue.
I was unable to get manual hubs-"not available in V6 Xtra cabs" (96).
With manual hubs, I could still be driving it without worrying about more damage. It also is more likely that the pinion would not have worn out in the first place.

Just venting. I understand that Toyota has to make what people are buying.

 

[Critter]

I am with you on that one, I hate auto hubs.

 

[Albuquerque Jim]

Do a swap. ORS sells a kit or do a junk yard swap. If you watch the TTOTA board there are a lot of guys doing SA swaps and you can pick up a set of Man Hub Spindles and Axles for about $400, that's what I did.

 

[Cube Dweller]

Bought an entire IFS front end for my 91 runner so I can lose the ADD, which doesn't work. I just bought the runner, and am not bothering to fix the ADD.

$100 complete from someone who did a SAS.

 

[timbercruiser]

swap is not an option right now. The whole diff is toast. So, in addition to buying a new diff (used is not an option, no time to hunt one down), I'd have to buy the manual hub kit.

I should have done the swap before it became an issue.

 

[bkg]

I have my Tacoma in the shop for the pinion bearing in the front diff. If there weren't so many lazy drivers out there, it would be an issue.
I was unable to get manual hubs-"not available in V6 Xtra cabs" (96).
With manual hubs, I could still be driving it without worrying about more damage. It also is more likely that the pinion would not have worn out in the first place.

Just venting. I understand that Toyota has to make what people are buying.

Makes no sense... The pinion should never turn unless the transfer case is in 4wd, hubs or no hubs.

The axle disconnext is on the long side of the axle houseing. When disconnected, there is no power transferred from that side (pass side) to the diff. On the other side (non-disconnect), the axle will turn the diff gears (spiders), but the pinion should never really turn. You may see pinion float - a slow turning of the front drive shaft caused by friction between the spiders and the carrier and also caused by fluid motion.

The only way this should have/could have happened is if your long-side axle was connected (never disconnected) and you were effectively driving with the front end always engaged. Shouldn't happen - IIRC, w/o vacuum applied, the springs will disconnect the axle...

So I'm confused as to what would cause your pinion bearing to go... other than low fluid and driving in 4wd...

 

[timbercruiser]

Where the driveshaft goes into the diff, it wobbles very badly. Same with the CV joint connection. The shop is looking at it as I write this.

BTW, my local dealer can't ID the ratio from the axle code. Why not? Are they dopey, or is that the way it works? (I'm pretty sure its 4.10) 96 Xtra cab, V6 31's (stock)

 

[Cube Dweller]

Check pirate4x4 and marlin crawler. there are always people selling this stuff cheap, at least gen 1 and 2. ebay has 3 ifs difs on it now, not sure what gen.

 

[bkg]

Where the driveshaft goes into the diff, it wobbles very badly. Same with the CV joint connection. The shop is looking at it as I write this.

BTW, my local dealer can't ID the ratio from the axle code. Why not? Are they dopey, or is that the way it works? (I'm pretty sure its 4.10) 96 Xtra cab, V6 31's (stock)

Was there oil in it?

I just cannot see any way for this to be caused by normal driving with a properly functioning ADD - just not feasible. The shaft should never be spinning....

 

[timbercruiser]

The shop had to open it up to count the ring and pinion. There was a bad seal. The inside looks like a blowout in a diaper!

Looked into a manual hub swap, but replacment is easiest option.