Dans FJ60 Landcruiser - Coils, LS1, Bar Work, Lots of Custom stuff (AUS)

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Joined
Jan 17, 2014
Threads
2
Messages
20
Location
Victoria, Australia
Model: 84 FJ60 Landcruiser

Colour: White

Engine Type:
Currently just a stock 308 motor and sitting to the side is a LS1

Engine Mods:

Power: NOT sure yet?

Exhaust: Not Much ATM

Gearbox: Marks4x4 Adoptor bellhousing, Stock 5 Speed Manual

Diff: Stock 80 series with Mounts relocated on the rear, 4.11 open centres

Brakes: All Stock 80 series disc all around (later, larger discs)
Later FJ62 Brake Booster with 94 80series Non ABS Master.

Suspension: Mix of 80series and custom parts, Dobinson Stock hight Coil Springs.

Wheels/Tyres: Maxxis Trepadors 37x12.5x17 on black 17x9 Procomp Steel rims

Interior: Stock/Removed in some spots

Other Mods: Custom bar work in the mix

Future Mods: LS1 turb0 V8


Had this car for years now, was stock for a bit, then did a SOA convertion, then a 308. left it like that for a few years now im currently swapping to 80 series coils/axles, LS1 v8 and some other goodness.

sadly i dont have any/many pics of the SOA covertion when i did it, if i can find them ill post somthing up.
basicly i used the 60 series diffs and remounted the springs so they sat ontop of the diff housing and not under, resoulting in a lift equal to the hight of the diff housing and new spring mount. about 8'' i think. then reset the leaf springs to lower it.

the back was easy lef the stock leaf mounts under the diff, made some new ones out of RHS and welded on top, flipped the stock U bolts and mount plates, the flipped the bolt that holds the leaf packs together so it located as per OEM.

the front was much the same, new RHS top mounts, but reused the U bolt lower mounts to located the Ubolts.
then as i had to rotate the diff housing forward to let the Front shaft to not be on a massive angle.

i then cut the weld off the end of the Knuckle, pressed them out, rotated to correct the cambe/castor, pressed back in and reweld.

next step was the steering arm drag link had to be raised to correct its angle and to not allow it to hit the leaf spring. i made up a 'Hight Steer arm' setup. using a stock arm, flipped up side down, flatend out a little, and redrilled the tapered hole to locate the drag link ball joint. made up some new longer studs, and it sat ontop of the OEM LHS steering arm, using the OEM cone washers flipped upsie down to hold it tight.

made new shock mounts and bump stops.

theres a bit more deatail in it all, but that was the basic setup.

ran it for 2 or 3 years with no issue at all, never broke, even with offroading most weekends.

Then about 4 years ago i desided to swap to 80 series diffs and coils.
got a rolling 80 series and started the build, then for a year or so i went off doin other things and left it sit.

guess i lost motivation, but not now
biggrin.png


Started off with cutting all the OEM 80 series mounts off the chassis and placing them on mine, this worked ok untill i started to raise it up.
then the arm angle were crap, so ive desided to make my own mounts, in much the same fassion as the OEM 80's but to fit my chassis ans drop down were needed.

ive also made them stronger in places and fixed up some weak points of the 80 series setup.
 
ok well now work is starting to happen. just goin a bit slow due to my old man using the shed for work and getting the Tick on what ive made from the engineer before fully welding mounts on.

my new radius arm mounts to mount onto the chassis are tacked on, came up rather good. every thing it made of 4mm plate or RHS so far.
there much like the OEM 80s mounts but dropped down and made a bit stronger.

moved the front wheel base forward about 25mm also

OEM MOUNTS



MY MOUNTS






next step is the steering box, the OEM 60 series position of the steering box left it right in the way of the coil tower/mount, so i had to move it forward (i forget how much)

i desided to use the OEM 80's box as it just seems to work much better.

i used the OEM 60 top front box mount hole, bolted the 80's box onto the chassis, angled it down to fit on the chassis, redrilled the front holes for the 80's box.

for the hole remanying, the 80's bolt pattern was half a hole width off.
so i hole sawed from the inside of the chassis cutting out the OEM 60's crush tube then redrilled the hole from the outside in the 80's pattern position.







this possed a proplem as the hole saw arbor kept spinning on the drill bit it uses to hold it.
SO, i made my own.

turned down some 13mm hex bar so it would fit a 13mm drill chuck, turned down one end and tapped the tread needed to hole the hole saw.
screwed on a nut to create a stop for the saw and some were to grab to undo it. tig welding the nut on.

Using the lathe drill a 1/4'' hole through the guts to fit the centring drill bit for the hole saw, then another hole through the hex nut and tapped a thread for a grub screw.

ran the hole thing back in the lathe and sqaured up the end of the hex so the hole saw would run true.

the bit works mint and is 100% better the the one wurth supplyed in the kit.






i lathed up some new crush tubes for the new holes, there welded to a 4mm plate on the inside of the chassis (only tacked on ATM)

i might make a plate for the outside of the chassis also, just so its strong as F.

the OEM 80 series box works alot better, turns easyer (not even running P/S yet) and has alot more steering lock.
 
As i moved the steering box forward i had to make a new steering shaft.
I cut the OEM 60s shaft in half, turn'd the ends down to 10 or 12mm, tapperd it back up to the stock width.
turned up a bit of bar to the stock width, tapperd the ends down, drilled a hole in the guts to slide the OEM end into it.
drilled a hole in the side to sit at the ends of the turned OEM shaft ends, tig welding it all together and plug welded the holes, ran it back through the lathe and now it looks like one OEM shaft :p

ill proply have to look for a nother OEM shaft that fits for engineers, or just not say anything! it will not break, ive done it before.
plus to break my arms will need to be straong enough to hold the steering wheel tight enough to break the wleds (no way is that goin to happen)







Now to start on the new panard mount and bracing so lower the panard down to the correct hight.

I now have the front radius arm mounts fully welding on.
i had to make a plate the dropped down the side of the mount to keep the engineer happy (not that it made it really any stronger, but hes the one signing it off)







Desided to make the steeering box mount even stronger and plated the outside of the chassis now also.





80% worked out were my new panard mount need to drop down off the chassis, just need to adjust the castor angle and check the steering arm angle again be for i start cutting up plate for the mount.

Had the engineer come down on saturday and have the first inspection of the cruiser.....things went well, first lot of paper work is done, now its time to build it all.

Current plans are to finish of the suspention, working on the rear arm setup atm.

But ive mostly got the go ahead for Turbo LS1, all coils and suspention work, custom bar work, EXO cage or inernal rollcage and more :D

here are some quick pics of the front panard mount setup i made






Got the front coil mounts done.
I used the OEM #80 series coil mount, raise up alittle and welded onto the #60 chassis.
i didnt use the #80 bumpstop mount and brace as it wasnt needed.
the front of the coil mount and back is brace as per the OEM design so will be nice and strong.







dan.
 
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started work on the rear today.

lower arm mounts are mounted to the chassis
lower stock arms cut up, the ends lathed off and will be 220mm longer.

my lathe spindle bore was to small to feed the tube through so useing another one tomorrow and i can start welding
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Pics on the way soon.

made a jig for the rear arms when making them, all tacked together and tested the length in the car tonight, seems good so far.
i moved the wheel base back abit, will need to flex test it for wheel clearance through the travel.

rear arms are made from 4mm think pipe, stock length was 700mm, new length is 920mm

so far it can sit on bump stops with 37s.






 
a mates 37/12,5/17 tyres and rims (now sold)
sitting on bumpstops and genral pictures





bought some tyres for the old girl Maxxis Trepador 37/12,5/17s
there the non radial sticky comp tyres, i didnt really want the soft ones but for the price i could say no.
there on Pro Comp 17x9 steel rims, i wanted 10'' wide but know one seems to make them in a 17'' rim?

 
i have done abit more progress to the old girl.

Finally completly welded the rear lower arms.




Also finished off moving the mounts in on the rear diff, every thing apart from the upper control arm mounts were moved in about 55mm to sute the narrower chassis width of the 60 series.
I made up some basic jigs to help keep the mounts in plate, so far so good.








next up was to remake the upper control arm mounts, mod the panard mounts and lower control arm mounts then move the coil mounts around to sute the chassis.

I moved the wheel base back 50 mm to help with that big ass over hang she has.






 
next issue with the wheelbase change was the body mount at the rear of the wheel archs in the back.
the tyre would flex right into them.

I ended up moving the mount in and back to fix the issue. Remade the floor mount and drilled another access hole in the floor for the bolt






For the rear of the chassis the rails are not boxed in like the rest, ive had issues with this twisting in the past.
I ended up staighining the chassis back, holding it in place for now and removed the inner section of chassis.
Plan is to plate the rear of the chassis to box it in as the rest of the chassis rails are.

then i can mount my towbar/rear tube bar and fuel tank setup.






started to play around with moving my alternator for the LS1 up out of the mud and water

 
well, ive been doing abit work work when i can.

98% finished the rear coil and shock mounts

added a brace to the front panard mount also.







Finially made my rear upper arms also, just out of some NB pipe (cant remember what size) around 115mm longer i think?
Made a jig to hold it all together.




 
Made the brake hard lines front and rear, i never had any rear lines on the diff and the front brake line T is on the LHS for a 80 series and 60 series needs it on the RHS.








Finished off bracing the rear of the chassis, cut it down as short as i could without moving the Body mount.
cut up some 5mm SHS and boxed the rear of the chassis in as the rest of the chassi is, ran some 38.1 mm CDW tube arcoss to tie the two rails back into each other.

Rear bar has a basic copy of a hamin reese tow bar slid in the back of the chassis. i remade the 75mm shs in 4mm with 5mm C section running down the inside of the chassis to have somthing to bolt to.

bar work is made of 44.45 and 38.1 CDW tube.

should be plenty stong. yet to finish the rear 1/4 chop, guard chop and brace the tube running along the rear 1/4s.









 
more to come, working on my Gaurd chops atm. need a new camera aso i can upload some pictures easy
 
hells yes! gunna do this to my 55 soon....been thinking the 62 needs some coils as well. Good Work!
 
Great to follow along, always amazed at good coil conversions! :popcorn:
 
Started on my guard chopping atm.
Front guards are off and will be swpped for some 'test' items before chopping mine up.
Had to cut the outter lower rad suport panel so i could turn full lock on flex.

The rear ive started the ruff cut, talked to the engineer and he was happy for me to cut more.
the inner tub liner will be cut out next all the way back to the body cross brace behind it.










 

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