Cut It Ty
Cyber build 101 : 80 with 6-8" lift running 38's
- Thread starter T Y L E R
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For 5K its impossible. Also I kinda agree with Curran, if you got a rig that big and got slightly off-camber the pucker factor would be extreme to say the least. 36"s are plenty of tire with 6" of lift. Get some armor T and get the rig really off-camber and see what you think.
T Y L E R said:
I think that it might work if you can control the air bags individually. But I personally know three folks who have had real bad luck with airbags off road. (Granted they were all Rover owners.)
Off camber can be an issue but I think that off camber situation can apply for any one. Look at this 80. It is standing on 44.
If you are planning to go this big I'd do research on how these guys made this happen. Here's the link: http://www.4x4offroads.com/4x4-snow-and-ice-hofsjokull-langjokull.html
Now I don't know if it can be done in $5K. I'd ask the suspension specialists (Christo and Steve) to chime in, I am sure this has crossed their minds
If you are planning to go this big I'd do research on how these guys made this happen. Here's the link: http://www.4x4offroads.com/4x4-snow-and-ice-hofsjokull-langjokull.html
Now I don't know if it can be done in $5K. I'd ask the suspension specialists (Christo and Steve) to chime in, I am sure this has crossed their minds
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Ty, measure the wheelwell of the 80 and you will see that it is not 38" big. So if the tire is compressed it will not fit period. So if you want to make that size tire fit you either cut (Artic flares are not an option, spoke to them) or you lift it sky high and then bumpstop the hell out of it. Last option is not good for trail truck. Believe me, you want it stable, you want it low and you want the biggest tire you can fit. I am contemplating 44's on the shortbus, but that is going to mean a lot more cutting up front.
As for the artic truck pictured above, build for snow and ice and it does not need to articulate in the least. Also, I spoke to them at Sema. They have about 100 hours into those trucks in labor alone.
> 1. 1997 FZJ80
> 2. 6 to 8" suspension
6" springs are easy, at 8" the links are becoming to short and you would need to address that. Especially in the rear.
> 3. 6" coils
What do you mean with No 2 then when you say 8" lift.
> 4. 1 - 3" body lift
2" is quite doable and does help with clearance and other issues, but beware you are adding costs for redoing bumpers etc. that does not fit anymore.
> 5. No body cutting
Aint gonna happen unless you never leave the road.
> 6. Able to flex and droop as much as possible, BUT
This and point 5 does not go together. Unless you are happy with very little.
> 7. Must retain a majority of the 80's driveability
38's and that big is going to throw this out of the window. It can drive ok, but it is not going to be stock.
> 8. Must remain a daily driver
How far do you drive daily.?
> 9. Retain a majority of it's stability on the street
Again, you will have to let the swaybars go. They just don't stay connected with a setup like this. You break the links. Ask Ben, he had this truck you are talking about. At least in height.
> 10. Castor corrected
3 link on the front is probably what you are going to need, or use drop spacers and arms. However if this is a trail truck, I do not like the drop spacers.
> 11. Running 38" rubber
That is easy. Just order them.
> 12. Wheels 10" with appropriate BS or 8"/9" with spacer
For a trail truck, we run 8" rims on that tire size. Keeps the rim protected. However that is for hardcore wheeling.
> 13. Mods must be bolt on for the majority. Weld on within reason (tried and true).
I guess with some stuff from us and MAF you can do it, but I think it would not yield the best off-road truck.
> 14. Within budget ($5K)
Not going to happen unless you do all the work yourself.
Come to Cruise Moab next year. You don't even have to wheel your truck hard there, but there will be some hardcore 80's. Look, listen and learn. Again for off-road, you want low, big tires and stable.
I am running 40's on the shortbus with about 5" of lift and 2" body lift and liberal use of the sawzall. However I get stuck all the time. Why, the belly of the beast is to low. I can run a little more lift but I don't like it. So that is why I am thinking 44's. However that opens another can of worms. Mostly, steering. The 80 steering is barely adequate for 35's. It gets pissed with 37's and when you get to 40's it does not do the job anymore. I am considering full hydro steering because I get off-road and I can not turn the tires.
Anyway, it will look cool in the Starbucks parking lot.
As for the artic truck pictured above, build for snow and ice and it does not need to articulate in the least. Also, I spoke to them at Sema. They have about 100 hours into those trucks in labor alone.
> 1. 1997 FZJ80
> 2. 6 to 8" suspension
6" springs are easy, at 8" the links are becoming to short and you would need to address that. Especially in the rear.
> 3. 6" coils
What do you mean with No 2 then when you say 8" lift.
> 4. 1 - 3" body lift
2" is quite doable and does help with clearance and other issues, but beware you are adding costs for redoing bumpers etc. that does not fit anymore.
> 5. No body cutting
Aint gonna happen unless you never leave the road.
> 6. Able to flex and droop as much as possible, BUT
This and point 5 does not go together. Unless you are happy with very little.
> 7. Must retain a majority of the 80's driveability
38's and that big is going to throw this out of the window. It can drive ok, but it is not going to be stock.
> 8. Must remain a daily driver
How far do you drive daily.?
> 9. Retain a majority of it's stability on the street
Again, you will have to let the swaybars go. They just don't stay connected with a setup like this. You break the links. Ask Ben, he had this truck you are talking about. At least in height.
> 10. Castor corrected
3 link on the front is probably what you are going to need, or use drop spacers and arms. However if this is a trail truck, I do not like the drop spacers.
> 11. Running 38" rubber
That is easy. Just order them.
> 12. Wheels 10" with appropriate BS or 8"/9" with spacer
For a trail truck, we run 8" rims on that tire size. Keeps the rim protected. However that is for hardcore wheeling.
> 13. Mods must be bolt on for the majority. Weld on within reason (tried and true).
I guess with some stuff from us and MAF you can do it, but I think it would not yield the best off-road truck.
> 14. Within budget ($5K)
Not going to happen unless you do all the work yourself.
Come to Cruise Moab next year. You don't even have to wheel your truck hard there, but there will be some hardcore 80's. Look, listen and learn. Again for off-road, you want low, big tires and stable.
I am running 40's on the shortbus with about 5" of lift and 2" body lift and liberal use of the sawzall. However I get stuck all the time. Why, the belly of the beast is to low. I can run a little more lift but I don't like it. So that is why I am thinking 44's. However that opens another can of worms. Mostly, steering. The 80 steering is barely adequate for 35's. It gets pissed with 37's and when you get to 40's it does not do the job anymore. I am considering full hydro steering because I get off-road and I can not turn the tires.
Anyway, it will look cool in the Starbucks parking lot.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Riad said:Off camber can be an issue but I think that off camber situation can apply for any one. Look at this 80. It is standing on 44.
If you are planning to go this big I'd do research on how these guys made this happen. Here's the link: http://www.4x4offroads.com/4x4-snow-and-ice-hofsjokull-langjokull.html
Now I don't know if it can be done in $5K. I'd ask the suspension specialists (Christo and Steve) to chime in, I am sure this has crossed their minds
These trucks run OME 2.5" lift and then body lift. That thing will not work in the rocks.
Verrry interesting thread, kudos to all of you.
Yep, wheewells are THE issue. Lots of cutting and trimming have to be done. Might as well just pull off the fenders and fab up custom fenders 
. Yep, Definitely 3 link suspension can do the cure, I was thinking more like 5 link , but that's just me. I know those sema trucks are for ice/snow only and I referenced them to point out exactly what Christo said about them. So, if the fab works can be done by solely self-effort and/or friends' serious discounted price: lots of beer: , then I don't see why it can't be done in <= $5K. But that's a lot of work though, reminds me of my 2 years plus saga with sasing my pervious truck..... eek!! Oh well, good luck though. It would be nice know and see that it can be done, when it's done
. Yep, Definitely 3 link suspension can do the cure, I was thinking more like 5 link , but that's just me. I know those sema trucks are for ice/snow only and I referenced them to point out exactly what Christo said about them. So, if the fab works can be done by solely self-effort and/or friends' serious discounted price: lots of beer: , then I don't see why it can't be done in <= $5K. But that's a lot of work though, reminds me of my 2 years plus saga with sasing my pervious truck..... eek!! Oh well, good luck though. It would be nice know and see that it can be done, when it's done 
Great thread!!
So am I crazy to think about running the 6" with just 35's? This was my plan, should still fit in the garage, and articulate well and no cutting involved. Slee you sell the L's with your lift...do your recommend going with something longer ie bilsteins? I know, I know I need to call you I have lots to order!!!
So am I crazy to think about running the 6" with just 35's? This was my plan, should still fit in the garage, and articulate well and no cutting involved. Slee you sell the L's with your lift...do your recommend going with something longer ie bilsteins? I know, I know I need to call you I have lots to order!!!
TY, i just went wheelin with a guy, shawn jackson from fort collins colorado,his web site is actionjackson.com.
check out his rig runnin 40" mtr's
you might get some info out of him.
it really to bad the 80's are so expensive to lift,or i'd have one
check out his rig runnin 40" mtr's
you might get some info out of him.
it really to bad the 80's are so expensive to lift,or i'd have one
clarkrw3, Many of us run the slee 6" with 35s. I works very well.
Cheers,
Sean
Cheers,
Sean
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Great information! This is just what I needed to make my decision on lifting the rig
Another,
Sean
Sean
Christo, don't you think this is another example of when portal's become a valid option? In theory, using the portal axles would allow you to keep the suspension rather mild and yet run really large tires. Still may need to trim a little, but you shouldn't need 6-8 inch springs to fit 38s.
concretejungle said:
I know somebody who has a set of portals. And this individual told me they were going to be installing them on an 80 so once this occurs I will be sure to have a report or maybe the nut who's doing it will report here themself.
Hasn't an 80 on portals has been done already by Drex ? I would like to learn more about it though.
And to echo Sean's statement above, the 6" lift with 35s is a great setup.
And to echo Sean's statement above, the 6" lift with 35s is a great setup.
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What's the spring rate on the Slee 6" springs, are they stiffer than the OME J's?
Seems like portals could be an interesting solution. I guess you could even keep the stock height for less than 38" tires. So, that would mean new/modified pan hard rods, fron and rear control arms, drive shafts and all the fab work. Hmm... not sure if that can be done in $5k. I would like to know how do the portals behave in daily driving?
Yes, i believe Ken Hanna put them on a rig he built for Drex. I would be curious to hear how much of the suspension and steering linkage had to be substantially tweaked to make them fit.
