CV axle replacement - What should I do? (1 Viewer)

[l3n0x]

So I have to replace the CV's on my truck, and was wondering what else should I do while in there?

I mean how do I know if I need to replace the wheel bearings or the spindle bearing or the spindle bush (brass)?
Is there a way to judge without opening everything up (so I could order the parts in advance)?

I don't want to destroy the new axles on worn parts, so that's why I'm asking.

 

[badlander]

In your case I would suggest removing the entire knuckle as an assembly that way it's easier to r & r the axles AND, more importantly, you will have access to inspect the needle bearing and bushing. Leave the hub and wheel bearings assembled unless you feel they need servicing. Always replace the drive flanges and diff oil seals with new axles.
As far as the wheel bearings are concerned you can get a feel for their condition by spinning the rotors after you remove the brake calipers and make a decision on them at that time, prior to removing the knuckles.
The assembled hub weighs in at aroung 60 lbs so either have a buddy help you or support it with a floor jack like did.
Good luck.

 

[l3n0x]

In your case I would suggest removing the entire knuckle as an assembly that way it's easier to r & r the axles AND, more importantly, you will have access to inspect the needle bearing and bushing. Leave the hub and wheel bearings assembled unless you feel they need servicing. Always replace the drive flanges and diff oil seals with new axles.
As far as the wheel bearings are concerned you can get a feel for their condition by spinning the rotors after you remove the brake calipers and make a decision on them at that time, prior to removing the knuckles.
The assembled hub weighs in at aroung 60 lbs so either have a buddy help you or support it with a floor jack like did.
Good luck.

Thank you very much!

 

[badlander]

If you do decide to remove the knucle rent a 27170 puller from auto zone to use on the lower ball joint. Don't try to free the jount by just tightening the puller alone. Tighten the puller very tight THEN whack the flat spot on the knuckle and it will pop right off. This puller won't fit on the top joint but the regular 2 prong type will (large size not the small one). Same removal procedure. By rhe way, this puller will not fit on the lower joint wirh the rotor dust shield in place. Thats why you need the 27170. That one you can wiggle in there and get it on and it's also beefier.
Good luck.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I just did this on mine.

I would be sure to buy new flanges. I would also recommend new OEM axles so you know the splines are brand new. A small amount of wear probably feels like a lot of slop in the final assembly.

Buy new cone washers (I had to damage mine slightly with an air chisel to remove them). Buy new flange nuts (they're factory threadlocked). Buy a new gaskets for the flange. Buy new grease caps. Buy new cotter pins for the upper and lower ball joints.

Buy a couple snap rings for the axles ends. The manual asks for a very, very tight clearance that forces you to get the exact correct size, but if you have a few on hand you can at least get close and get the perfect size after you finish the job.

It's also a good time to change out the brakes as you'll be most the way there to get the rotors swapped.

The lower ball joint is a pain without the right puller. I used one I bought at O'Reilley and had to remove the dust shield (and therefore the entire hub) to get the puller on the knuckle. Finding a Pittman arm puller that fits with the dust shield on would be really nice.

 

[l3n0x]

I just did this on mine.

I would be sure to buy new flanges. I would also recommend new OEM axles so you know the splines are brand new. A small amount of wear probably feels like a lot of slop in the final assembly.

Buy new cone washers (I had to damage mine slightly with an air chisel to remove them). Buy new flange nuts (they're factory threadlocked). Buy a new gaskets for the flange. Buy new grease caps. Buy new cotter pins for the upper and lower ball joints.

Buy a couple snap rings for the axles ends. The manual asks for a very, very tight clearance that forces you to get the exact correct size, but if you have a few on hand you can at least get close and get the perfect size after you finish the job.

It's also a good time to change out the brakes as you'll be most the way there to get the rotors swapped.

The lower ball joint is a pain without the right puller. I used one I bought at O'Reilley and had to remove the dust shield (and therefore the entire hub) to get the puller on the knuckle. Finding a Pittman arm puller that fits with the dust shield on would be really nice.

Thank you!

I've bought new cone washers, washers, nuts, flanges, 2 of every clips, grease cups, oem axles, seals for the diff outputs.

I didn't know I had to remove the lower ball joint, but that sounds like fun! (not)

Added cotter pins & castle nuts to the order. (for LCA and UCA ball joints) And also 2-2 upper and lower ball joint boot kit - if I destroy them during pulling..

 

[l3n0x]

I wonder if I need the 90316-72001 - SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER), RH/LH as well?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Thank you!

I've bought new cone washers, washers, nuts, flanges, 2 of every clips, grease cups, oem axles.

I didn't know I had to remove the lower ball joint, but that sounds like fun! (not)

Added cotter pins & castle nuts to the order. (for LCA and UCA ball joints) And also 2-2 upper and lower ball joint boot kit - if I destroy them during pulling..

Good call. I have read some people were able to get their axles out without removing the lower ball joint, but it's not the intended way to do it. I tried and was unable. Seems like you'd have to really yank on the knuckle to displace it enough to get the axle out. Once I used the air chisel on the cone washers and got the hub off it was smooth sailing.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I wonder if I need the 90316-72001 - SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT AXLE HUB INNER), RH/LH as well?

If you haven't replaced those seals recently, yes. You should replace those seals when you install new axles.

 

[l3n0x]

If you haven't replaced those seals recently, yes. You should replace those seals when you install new axles.

I’ve just bought the car, so I have no idea what I’m going to find inside there but judging by other parts... I wouldn’t be surprised if it needed replacement. Is it hard to do?

 

[suprarx7nut]

I’ve just bought the car, so I have no idea what I’m going to find inside there but judging by other parts... I wouldn’t be surprised if it needed replacement. Is it hard to do?

Not hard while you're removing axles. Really annoying otherwise. The key is keeping everything clean and driving the seals in as evenly as possible. Put them in just barely off kilter and they won't seal.

 

[l3n0x]

Not hard while you're removing axles. Really annoying otherwise. The key is keeping everything clean and driving the seals in as evenly as possible. Put them in just barely off kilter and they won't seal.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[l3n0x]

Okay, I'm very-very sad, but I've decided that I'm only replacing the flanges and maybe tightening the bearings.. The car is just not worth (rust & other issues) to throw a new CV axle into it